sunray1

I wouldn't know about tougness or durabilty

but IMO the Df is much 'better' build than the

other prosumer cameras in that the buttons

and dials have a much nicer 'feel' to them.

Also the shutter 'feels' and sounds quite

different (better IMO) than a D750. It definitely

feel less plastic and more 'quality' than a

D750, despite it's light weight.

I hink it's a very well build camera and never

had any problem with the battery door.

Enjoying the camera very much!

<p>Hi all,<br>

Just picked up a working MH-16 from Marktplaats / Craiglist (thx Wouter!) and just spent an hour or so shooting. So everything is fine now and I'm fully aware about the age-related issues with these NuMH batteries.<br />I read some info about a procedure to break in new batteries and will try that. Now let's see if I can find some 1 or 2GB CF cards... It's all just for fun of course but so far I enjoy shooting with so much restrictions like battery life, number of shots, dynamic range, iso range etc. :-)</p>

Thx Wouter!

For some reason I missed this listing on

'Marktplaats'.

Made the seller an offer and keep my fingers

crossed now! :-)

<p>Hello,<br>

Recently I stumbled upon a D1X for a few bucks. The batteries didn't seem to charge with the MH-16 charger: the red charging light kept blinking and never went to the green 'End' light, so -still optimistically- I went out and scored the last two EN4 batteries at my local Calumet (15 dollars a piece), thinking it was just the old batteries that had died.<br>

But... also with the new batteries I'm not able to charge them: the same thing happens, a blinking red charging light, even after more than 12 hours... So now I'm afraid I'm stuck with a dead charger.<br>

Can anybody tell me what the blinking red charging light means? I can't seem to find any info on the MH-16 on the web...<br />Or does anybody know where I can buy a replacement charger (I'm in The Netherlands/Europe).<br>

Thanks!<br>

Ray</p>

<p>For land/cityscapes: 17-35 AF-S: for the sharpness, relatively small size, it's sharpness and the way it renders...<br>

<br />Otherwise -like many apparently- the 35 1.4 Ai-s: for the unique way it renders and the joy of manual focusing a beautifully made lens</p>

I really like the 25-50 f4 Ai-s!

<p>Ok, thank you all so far.<br /> <br />For me to sum it up:<br /> -It seems the consensus is that a one stop improvement while shooting at ISO 3200/6400 is a realistic expectation, with eiher one of the new camera's, including the D810.<br />D750, Df an D4(s) give slight improvements from there onwards, but nothing spectacular and only at really, really high ISO's, right?<br /> -I am aware that my preference for not using noise reduction software is a factor I could reconsider. I just rather not if I had the option.<br>

<br /> The reason for not including a D3s/D4 is that I feel it is time to consider a smaller, but most of all lighter camera. Never thought that would be an issue for a healthy strong young man like myself, but I did have several long shoots where my elbow and wrist hurt for weeks after...<br />Another reason is that I felt I left the D3 at home on trips and travels because of the size. Started using a V1 in combination with a FM/FE or F2/F3 instead and that works fine. For some trips though I wish I could bring a not to big and heavy (semi)pro dSLR for maximum IQ.<br /><br />And btw thank you Ilkka for the tip on the Nikon RAW converter vs the Adobe convert. Will give it a try!</p>

<p>I PP in CS6 and prefer not to use noise reduction software. <br>

I have a nice set of primes (28 1.4, 50 1.4 and 85 1.4), but indeed learned that for this kind of work shooting at f1.4 is not realistic. <br />In fact, if the ISO- and AF performance of a D750 or D810 would permit it, I'd be contemplating to switch from my 80-200 f2.8AFS to a 70-200 f4VR and shoot a lighter lens at f4 for a little more DoF.<br /><br />Shun, what do you mean with 36MP being meaningless beyond ISO 1600? Do you mean from there on the ISO-performance of the D750 is significantly better than that of the D810?</p>

<p>Hi there,<br>

I realise I might have asked this question in another, less specific way earlier, but I'm still not sure...<br />Having shot rock concerts, dance performances and available light indoor events (speeches, awards etc.) with a D700 and a D3 for the last years, lately I feel more and more the need for an improvement in the IQ- department, mainly with regards to noise but also AF-acuity.<br>

I often shoot at ISO3200, f2.8 and 1/125s, but sometimes need to drop the speed to 1/60 (greatly increased risk of camera shake) or bump the ISO to 6400 (severe drop in IQ). For me ISO 3200 is the limit of my IQ-comfortzone with these camera's.<br>

Which is not bad, and there's always room to improve my skills to nail the exposure even more right, but it would be great if I had a camera that I could use at ISO 6400 and that would give me the IQ comparable with that of my current D3 at ISO 1600 in those situations (2-stop ISO improvement). With the new generation of camera's, is that a realistic expectation?<br>

I'm talking about either a D810 or D750 coming from a D700/D3 (D3s, D4/s is no option for me). I know the D750 has great AF and hi-ISO performance, but from what I've read the D810 is no slouch either and has some things going for it which I value.<br>

I'm not so much interested in which camera is (slightly) better than the other at exotic high ISO, but is it realistic to expect a stop improvement at ISO 6400 compared to my D3 at ISO 3200 with either of those camera's?<br /><br /><br>

Thanks for your thoughts<br />Ray</p>

<p>Don't know exactly how limited budget your budget is, but I use a D3, 28-70/f2.8 and 80-200f2.8 AFS for such occasions and would recommend them.<br>

High ISO is not as good as the latest generation pro camera's, but this yesteryear's pro-gear is a joy to use and for me the results (for web-galleries and 8" x 10" prints) are fine up to ISO3200.<br>

To me they are good value for the money these days. Of course only second hand.<br>

<br />Grtz Ray</p>

<blockquote>

<p>If Nikon could make the Df the size of the F3HP, and leave off the LCD and all the buttons and dials, and just give it two controls, Shutter Speed and ISO, with a built in Matrix light meter, make it shoot NEF and make it compatible with all Nikkor F glass, I'd buy one in a heartbeat.<br /><br />I love the concept of the Leica M60, not real crazy about their execution and price though.Best,<br /> -Tim</p>

</blockquote>

<p>+1<br />I don't consider myself a Luddite, but admit that I have a weak spot for some things that aren't really logical or practical, but which I enjoy using. <br /><br />A stripped down, affordable digital camera -preferably made by Nikon- would fit nicely along my newly made, (and thus reliable), single channel, non master volume tube amp with 'just' 18 Watts and a single 12" speaker and my Triumph Thunderbird Sport which is a 900cc retro looking naked bike with 'just' 82HP, limited luggage options and not much comfort but with great looks, plenty torque and modern brakes and suspension :-)</p>

<p>I'm not a professional photographer and for me this is all about 'fun' and has nothing to do with logic or being 'better than' or so. And as far as fun goes: to each it's own...<br>

20K is no fun though, for a camera I'd like to use everyday, everywhere. Maybe at 3K I'd indulge in such fun, if I could afford it...<br>

Meanwhile I'm having daily fun with either the D3 or the F2, 3, 4 or 5 :-)</p>

<p>My next purchase -later this year hopefully- probably will be the Df, and I'll be perfectly happy with that.<br /> However, if Nikon should ever come out with something like this <strong><em>at Df-price</em></strong> (!!!) I think I'd buy one and shoot the crap out of it. No glass case and white gloves here :-)</p>

<p>No menu's, no display, only RAW, manual focus, just shutterspeed, aperture and ISO-dials...good build quality and nice vintage looks/size...<br>

Seems like Leica did what a lot of Df-purists were hoping for...<br>

So it is possible.. albeit in a limited production run and at a price...<br>

Now that such a camera is no longer a fantasy I must say I'm intrigued. As a lover of film SLR's as well as my D3 I like the idea but know for sure I will never in my life be able to afford such a camera.<br>

What do you think: would you buy one if Nikon ever came up with something like that?</p>

<p>Google some images of Capadocia, Sanliurfa, Mt. Nemrut...<br /><br /></p>

<p>last one</p><div></div>

<p>and another one</p><div></div>

<p>another one</p><div></div>

<p>Hi all,<br /> Back from Myanmar and back here to share some of my experiences.<br /> First: the Nikon V1 is a great travel camera. Sturdy, responsive, not intrusive and easy and fun to use. Battery life is good and the EVF is great for bright sunny daylight situations.<br />The 18.5 1.8 (50mm equiv.) is a cheap, small and sharp lens. Sure, the bokeh is not that blurred and washed out as with a full frame 1.4, but actually, for more environmental portraits this is not a bad thing.<br />The 6.7-13 (20-35 equiv.) is also very sharp and a very versatile lens for land-and city scapes, dramatic wide angle shots and general walk around use. <br />Together a great combo that doesn't take up much space and is easy to carry. I wish Nikon will soon release a 24-70 2.8 (70-200 equiv.); that would make for a very complete and portable travel kit for me!<br /><br />As for the film part... I hate to admit it, but next time I think I probably take just the V1 system or a D3 (or Df) and some primes (i.e. 28, 50, 85). I came to realize that my manual focussing skills in hot (at times 48 degrees Celsius!) situations aren't as good as I thought they were. Is was constantly fighting to see something though my burning eyes, caused by a constant stream of stingy sweat into my eyes. Having not much of eyebrows and eyelashes definitely was not fun here. Also in the hectic of i.e. markets I just could not bring to concentrate on assessing the light and compensate exposure as I do in more easy situations. So I just used the F3 in A-mode and prayed for the best. So, I'll bring the slides to the camera store for development this week, and I'll develop the B/W rolls myself, but I'm not expecting many keepers there, if 'good' images at all...<br /><br />Otherwise the F3 was great to use and not to heavy to carry. If I would go only film for a trip I would take it again, although maybe considering an AF body.<br />On this trip I almost only used the 105/2.5 and almost never the 35/1 which surprised me a little as I expected it to be the other way...<br /><br />The trip itself was absolutely great, probably one of the most beautiful, great trips I have ever made. The people are so friendly, warm, kind, helpful... heartwarming... and the country is really beautiful with is landscape and nature, and the temples and stupas literally everywhere... the buddist heart of this country really tangible...<br />Heart to describe in words, so I'll just show a few V1 images. Although great in color, I found myself converting to B/W lots of times, because it suited my mood better. A sort of melancholic nostalgia... a sense of experiencing th least remains of old times, of the pureness of the country and its people... knowing that changes come fast for Myanmar now and it could all be so very different is just a few years now...</p><div></div>

Thx Clive! I'm from the Netherlands so it looks I already have the right plugs/voltage.

Btw my gf brings her 11'' Macbook Air and hd as well as her D300, 12-24 and 85 1.8

Off to the airport now!

Cheers!

<p>4 Camera's and over 100 rolls would indeed be to much for me too Shun!<br />I reckon 2 small camera's, 10 rolls and 64GB of SD cards must be doable though :-)<br />We'll see. I'am all packed now, leaving tomorrow and will be back with some pics!</p>

<p>Thank you all very much for your thoughts, tips and wishes!<br />I'm looking forward to what most likely will be a great trip!<br />Here's the kit I finally put together.<br /><br />(still doubtfully with a FE2 or F2 waiting in the wings, maybe to be thrown in the bag last minute as a spare or to have a separate b/w and slide body)</p><div></div>

<p>Hi all,<br />Thank you for your responses.<br />Here's where I am now:<br />-Probably take the F2 with just the 35 1.4 and 105 2.5. It has the H2 screen which is my favorite for manual focussing. And yes, there is some nostalgia involved: I love the experience of shooting a well made SLR and some glass with 'character'. <br /><br />-Probably will leave the color negative film at home. Maybe one or two rolls Cinestill (tungsten balanced) for the Hong Kong at night stopover. Not sure about bringing slides. Am quite at home with developing and scanning B/W (Rodinal stand is pretty foolproof and works fine for scanning) but am new to slides. Anyone has some insights about Provia400X in Asia-light?<br /> <br />-I'd love a lens like the new 70-200 f4 as a travel lens, but unfortunately I don't have it yet. A D600 would be nice too, but alas. I don't mind carrying a pro body on the street but only with a small prime like the 50 1.4 (did this before on a trip to Turkey with a D2H and it works great: fast and responsive).<br />Bringing the D3 with just the 50 is a challenging thought, but I will consider this idea...<br /><br />-As for the V1: I travelled to Nepal before, bringing a small D60 (and FM2), and to my eye I think the IQ of the V1 is better. And I even prefer the 'feel' and shooting experience of the V1 over the cheap plastic of the D60. And the FT1 works great so I'll have my telephoto if needed :-)</p>

<p>-I'm not at all setting low standards to IQ, but for me there's more to a good photo than resolution and sharpness at pixel level. It's an irrational thing but I love it. And just like Kent I think there is a certain charm to black and white travel photo's. So let's not discuss the merits or disadvantages of 35mm film here. That said: I love good digital files too and that's why I want tot bring both.</p>

<p>-I'll be carying my stuff in a F-stop Loka backpack (great bag btw) while traveling or while hiking. And a Think Tank Retrospective 5 while walking around: V1 on the neck, SLR with small lens on the shoulder, other small lens(es) and film in the bag.<br>

Thanks again!</p>

<p>Hi there,<br /> Off to Myanmar for a month in a week. Hope to visit Mrauk U, Mandalay, Bagan and Inle Lake, as well do some short/light trekking near Kalaw. And a full day stopover in Hong Kong on both the way in and out.<br />I want to shoot both digital and film and am contemplating the following set-up:<br /> -Nikon V1 with 18.5mm f1.8 (50mm equiv.) + 6.7-13mm (18-35 equiv.) The latter yet to be purchased in HK, so I'll bring the 10mm 2.8 just in case.<br /> plus:<br /> -Nikon F4 (MB20 small grip) with 28mm 1.4AFD, 50mm 1.4 AFD and 85mm 1.4 AFD<br /> or:<br /> -Nikon F2 (DE1 meterless prism) with 35mm 1.4 AIs, 55mm 3.5 AI and 105mm 2.5 ai + Seconic handheld lightmeter<br /> <br />That leaves my D3, F3, F5, FE2 and F100 and 80-200 f2.8 AFS at home ;-)<br /> I'll take Fuji Provia 400X and/or AGFAphoto CT Precisa 100 for slides, ADOX CHS100 for b/w and Cinestill800 for low light color negatives.BTW I'll pick up a Sirui carbon travel tripod in HK as well. I'll leave the SB600 at home.<br /> <br />I really like the handling and files from the V1 and have a sweet spot for the F4's versatility, despite it's plastic, bulk and weight.<br />The idea is to use the V1 for situations where I have to be quick and fast, as well for wide city/landscapes and kick down with one classic body and some great lenses for some more deliberate work: city, street, landscape, portraits etc.</p>

<p>Here's my questions for you:<br /> -What bodies/lenses from my collection would you take?<br /> -Do you think I'll need a telephoto? (180 2.8 ED Ai-s? 300mm f4.5ED IF?)<br /> -Any suggestions for metering with these films and bodies? (quite familiar with ADOX CHS 100, not so much with slides)<br /><br /><br /> Thanks for your input!<br />Grtz,<br />Ray</p>

<p>Hi all,<br>

Thanx for your input. <br />I'm glad to hear that there is a real -albeit not spectaculair- improvement to be expected from a D600 @iso 6400 compared to 3200 on a D3, noise wise and DR-wise.<br /><br />I always shoot RAW and never cared for PP noise treatment, but that's a suggestion I might reconsider.<br /><br />The point of AF-performance due to smaller max aperture is also taken; I'll definitely check that if I ever come to the point of buying an f4 lens.<br /><br />My preference is shooting with primes, and I shoot most of my other work with them. For a while I shot concerts with a 28, 50, 85 and 180. The 180 AF is too slow for me unfortunately. Otherwise it is indeed a nice light lens with great IQ. <br /><br />The D3 with a small prime (especially the 50 1.4) is one of my favorite configurations for just about everything.<br />The versatility and the long end of a 70/80-200 is just very useful for concert situations.<br /><br />For now it was just my need for advice regarding one of the new smaller bodies in combination with the smaller f4 zoom, compared to the D3 + 80-200 f2.8 (and 28 1.4) I currently use, IF I would go that route, to see if I could get an overall smaller and lighter bag for tose times I will be shooting concerts/dance.<br /><br />My conclusion is that a D600 (or even a Df) could work for me with the 70-200 f4 IF the AF-performance in low light is acceptable for me, which I have to test before buying.<br />Thanx!<br /><br /></p>