fernando_scherer

<p>i think its film. i usually cant get such smooth gradation of colors on the sun, on my d300..</p>

<p>that lens just isnt suited for the job. you can get good results, but you have more trouble doing so. at least rent a better lens.</p>

<p>for movement, use always af-c. so, disable the focus delay, (if d90 has it) so the body doesnt stop for the defined time to refocus. on off, it keeps correcting. so when you fire it, the system should have aqquired a good focus. also, put on single point af, the center one. because it is the most accurate (as others said.). but with this, you cant reframe things, making all subjects on center. that is when the af-l button comes in.. you hold it and the af will stop what it was doing, so you can reframe. of course if the subject is comming toward you, this will make picture blurred, so you better not use, and just reframe in pp. i have a d300 and 70-300vr(same as yours).. i noted it makes good results, but not so many keepers as a pro lens should. of course it costs 1/4 of one. if you want panning, you can use af-d still, because it locks on, and subject moves horizontaly, not needing so much focus adjustments.. and its easier because you dont need to push so many buttons.. also if trying to follow something that goes behind things, you may wanna keep your hand close to the focus ring, so you can give a little help to af.<br>

remember, people have done wonderfull pictures of races and whatever well before af came.. just everything needs a proper technique.</p>

<p>good luck.</p>

<p>Hi, sorry to let you down, but you have to return this asap. didnt read the date probably you havedone already. the magnesium alloy is very very strong. so this is a result from dropping from a moving vehicle into concrete or user was runned over by a car.. get a d300 until you can afford a better d700.</p>

 

<p>as far as i know, d80 is rated at 50k shutter counts. dnxx are at 150k and dx at 300k.<br /> so it could die at any moment, surely could also go to 400k, but past the rated number is a russian roulette.</p>

<p>if the original is like this, surely is under.. on digital sometimes my wide lenses get confused when light is too strong even if i point meter somewhere. if that happens i meter down, almost on my foot, to get exposed properly. but as the lattitude is too narrow, i almost always loose the sky.</p>

<p>its off. you probably should point down not building. think the meter got confused, or was at matrix</p>

<p>The tokina 16-50 f2.8 has a good build, very good reliability and fast focus. feels much better on hands than tamron. perhaps worth take a look.</p>

<p>dude you are trying to correct the roundness of Earth..</p>

<p>a fast zoom is what you might find useful.. theres a big crop of them: Nikon 17-55 f2.8 afs, Tamron 17-50 f2.8 (screwdriven), Tokina 16-50 f2.8, Sigma 18-50 f2.8</p>

<p>return it. it should be better than d70 only on high iso. id wait to get a d90 instead.<br>

the d3000 is a cute little camera, but cant focus on afd and most good lenses are af-d, not af-s.</p>

<p>for that value, only 35mm 1.8g comes to mind. but having only that lens is a bit limiting factor. unless you are old school, that ones that does everything on 50mm.<br>

if not, keep the 18-55 a little more. it sells for close to nothing, and if you need so wide get a sigma 10-20, or nikon 10-24. (about $400)<br>

but remember, photography is about taking things <em>out</em> of the frame, not in.</p>

<p>i have a meike grip also. it is as good as the nikon to hold, so for that its fine. also gets you to 8fps when using 8xAA batteries; comes with the enl4 holder, if you want to try that. i have it for like a year now, and the scroll wheels are still fine.<br>

only thing im not sure that this way: if i remove the battery drawer, the camera turns off, only going back when i insert it again. not sure the original one keeps it on, using camera battery or if is just that way.</p>

<p>for getting out of the amateur part, also you wanna have all the equipment doubled. in a wedding , the camera cant brake on you, because the client wont be happy, and there wont be a new party.<br>

2xbodies, 2xflashes, and lenses.<br>

also some planning,<br>

more, you have to show things before being able to get a contract. so you need to have some good weddings shoots, albums , dvds, to show them how things will look like when service is done.</p>

<p>thanks a lot, ill try it next time.i find the small visor bit hard to focus on manual to make a lock on, but ill remember next time to do it</p>

 

<p>portrait: nikon 85mm 1.4 or 1.8;<br>

product: nikon 50mm f1.8, nikon 105mm vr micro 2.8,or nikon 60mm micro, af-s or af-d. both are good for flowers, 60 not so with bugs.<br>

wedding: 17-55 f2.8, 85mm f1.4 or 1.8, or tamron too, tokina 16-50 is well built also. bit short on long end, cheaper than nikon's. flash, sb 800 or 900.<br>

for some more unconventional shots, perhaps a 10.5 fisheye, or a sigma 10mm, or tokina 11-16.</p>

<p>ok thanks for that. i first tried to do that on the straight but when they passed me they were pretty close, so i had to swing at lightspeed. no keepers there. so i found that slight corner when they came at a distance, so i could set myself for them. but on 300mm handheld were too hard to keep the af on them, for i was shaking, than i set the zoom backwards so i could have them on my fov before it. ill remember monopod next time.<br>

is it possible to do at 250/500ish? the sharpness would be greater.</p>

<p>thanks for your advice,<br>

i had a hard time following those bikers, i hope i can try that again.</p>

<p>had a 70-300 that i accidentally dropped while picking up bag. tried to ease its fall with my feet but the vr broke. lens kept working fine apart of that. i sent to nikon for a replacement. The biggest problem is that they had to wait for the parts for a very very long time, like 6 months. but it came back fine, after several phone calls (suddently they had the part and sent me the lens).</p>

<p>the 80-200 i had, was very very resistance to flare.. but i bought the hood anyways. now, my 85 1.8 is not. and it came with the metal hood. made several tests, and the cheap filter most cases dont affect image much, only when a strong light source is nearby. but even without filter it is very very haze prone.. have to be careful where you position yourself. but it can take very good pictures with or without hood. but if its night, suggest you take off any filters, even the most expensive ones.</p>

<p>Hi people, this weekend we had a motorbike training here on the city's track, and because its open for watching, i went to try shooting them. that event i didnt need permission for. i want to build a portfolio of sports, but have few occasions that i can shoot without much hassle.<br>

So, i took the D300 and a 70-300 vr, my only tele lens for the while. (i know its not a pro lens, i had an 80-200 but the af failed on me so i sold). The weather yesterday was overcast so maybe explains the problems in af, i had few keepers, most of them probably my fault. The camera settings i used, were 1-af point only, af-c, speed or aperture priority, and mostly had vr on. no tripod. Even the best ones werent so sharp, not sure lens of my fault.<br>

What would you tell that could help me with keepers rate?<br>

the pannings were between 1/60 and 1/125.</p>

<p><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4006/4303927097_3fd226677d_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="680" /><br>

<img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4304673100_16078b35e4_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="680" /><br>

<img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4049/4303926701_135fa35cfb_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="680" /><br>

<img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/4304671596_6abd304586_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="680" /><br>

<img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4020/4303926421_f7456cd5ee_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="680" /></p>

 

<p>not sure you know what that this is the lens you want.. in fx its just like a normal lens... no wow into it, just a good low light one. if you mean what 35mm does on film, may be a 24mm is better for you.. well anyway, i like my 35 nikkor f1.8 dx, its light, sharp and <em>kind</em> <em>of</em> a good bokeh.</p>

<p>for landscapes you want to be wide, lesser than 28mm.. for cityscapes, up to 35mm (wich is kind of closed shot). i suggest you get a 17-55 f2.8 nikon, or 17-50 tamron (try finding the non motorized), or Tokin a 16-50 f2.8.<br>

dont get a fix of 35 or 50 for both or things, because its too long for that. not good for landscapes, or you'll end up dong land-closeups.</p>

<p>did you use filters on the above lens?</p>

<p>theres a topic on dpreview about this.. the guy has taken nice pictures on rain.. with a 600mm f4 vr,<br>

may be they inspire you somehow..<br>

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1030&message=33771964&q=rugby+600mm&qf=m</p>