mark_farrell
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Posts posted by mark_farrell
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<p>Check the mirror brake/rest to make sure it's still there. Evidently a common problem for these to break off. If not broken perhaps an adjustment may be needed. If the mirror isn't aligned correctly in it's return position the focus can be off. Thread link below has a picture of my 645 showing the location of the brake/rest. There are a few other threads around describing a similar focusing problem</p>
<p>http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00YV2b</p>
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<p>The sync cable will still send the high voltage back to the cameras hotshoe or PC connection and could cause damage. The PC connection on your camera may be able to take a higher voltage, but why risk possible damage to the camera if you're not sure. To be safe I would still recommend a device similar to the Wein Safe Sync even for a PC cord attachment. There are other ways to isolate the camera from the high voltage of the flash such as a wireless trigger.<br>
At the cost of the Wein, you may want to consider simply purchasing a new flash that has TTL compatibility with your Nikon.</p>
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<p>The site below shows the trigger voltage for your particular flash is about 194 volts at the hotshoe pin. This high of a voltage could damage the electronics in your camera which was designed for about 6 volts, so no I would not try to use that flash mounted directly. <br>
There are adapters, one being made by Wein that can be used between the flash hotshoe and camera that reduce the voltage to a safe value for the camera.<br>
http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html<br>
Wein Safe Sync<br>
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/245292-REG/Wein_W990560_Safe_Sync_Hot_Shoe_to.html</p>
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<p>Curious Mark if one of the reasons you sent it for service, was the shutter at slower speeds getting sluggish? That's about the only issue I have with mine presently, although it's not bad in warmer weather.</p>
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<p>Mark,<br>
I just pulled my Yashica D out of the closet. It's difficult to tell visually, but using a cotton Q-Tip to "feel" the contour of the rear lens element facing the film, I can confirm the convex side is towards the film.<br>
If you have a piece of ground glass or similar frosted plastic, you might be able to hold it to the back of the camera where there film plane is to view an image and get an idea if reversing the lens corrects the problem.</p>
<p>Mark........</p>
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<p>Look at this thread I've linked below. I have a picture of the mirror stop adjustment screw which is used to adjust mirror angle and distance to the focus screen. Is yours still there?<br>
http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00YV2b</p>
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<p>I had purchased my first Hasselblad kit from an ebay seller and subsequently a few other items from the same person. He had stated the camera was "mint" and as received it was. He currently has a 503CW kit which sounds about the same the one mentioned from KEH. While the price may be up a bit, I've had good experience buying from this seller and I wouldn't hesitate to buy another camera from him.</p>
<p>A little more money, but the lens is a CFE...<br>
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<p>Had an old Gossen meter that was in need of repair, but never had it done. In looking for a repair shop I found this one recommended on a few forums.....</p>
<p>Quality Light Metric Co<br /> 7095 Hollywood Blvd Ste 550<br /> Los Angeles, CA 90028-8912<br /> Phone: (323) 467-2265</p>
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<p>I've had good results using a black silicone RTV, such as linked below. It's flexible when dry, so application to holes on corners of a bellows can move easily.</p>
<p>http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA</p>
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<p>While there is always the temptation to upgrade from present equipment and maybe yours is truly justified, looking to see if an improvement can be made with what you have may be worth looking into first, possibly just altering a technique or method of scanning.</p>
<p>I've come across some decent scan samples from an Epson V500 when I was looking to replace a Canon flatbed I have. The link below represents a sampling of V500 scans. Some are better than others, but may give an idea if your V500 is capable of doing better.<br>
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<p>I've had my 500C out of the case after finding the documents explaining how to do it and made some simple adjustments which fixed an issue it had.</p>
<p>If one has some basic skills and knows and accepts the risks, why not try something like this and get a better understanding of how things work. Too much today society in general is taking the attitude to have someone else fix their problems (as well as their life) and not having the motivation to learn or try something on their own. How many of you with kids have attempted to impart some skills, presuming you have the skills to begin with, such as basic car repair, carpentry, or home repairs which could help them later in life. Then again many kids today seem to lack the interest or motivation to learn things like this and adopt the attitude, "Let somebody else fix it".</p>
<p>"Why should I develop my own B&W film? I might ruin it"</p>
<p>Sorry for this little rant, but I do appreciate the fact that Martin had the initiative to undertake something such as this and more so when getting stuck had asked a question how to move forward. Just know your limits and don't attempt home dentistry :)</p>
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<p>Recently got a P645 (original) and 75mm lens cheap ($30) due to AA batteries leaking in the grip and the owner wasn't able to demo the functioning of the camera.<br>
Anyhow I got the battery corrosion pretty well cleaned up enough to power up the camera and it seems to operate for the most part. One other issue it had was the geared film roller that operates the frame counter gear was bound from an end of it becoming unscrewed and jamming its rotation. Since it didn't rotate, this caused the film to run to the end since it didn't think it ever got to frame 1. The lithium cell in the bottom reads about 3.0v and the memory is retained when the battery grip AA holder is removed.</p>
<p>I've got a old dummy roll of 1981 Tri-X I'm using to test with and if I, set the camera on "Single Shot" mode I can get one shot out of it, but as long as the power switch is on it will not take another shot. Turn the power off and back on I can get another shot. In "Continuous Shot" mode I can take a shot and fire subsequent shots with no problem. The frame counter does appear to be working correctly and at the end of 16 frames the camera won't fire any more, so the film insert contacts seem to be functioning correctly to indicate film end and block camera operation. I suppose I could just leave the camera in "Continuous Shot" mode and forget "Single Shot", but just the fact that it appears not to be right bugs me, so if I can do an easy fix I'll feel better.</p>
<p>I did find mention of a similar problem someone had in another forum and stated a camera tech thought it was likely to be the frame counter gear at an estimated of cost of $150. The poster of that thread opted to sell the camera , so I don't know if the "frame counter gear" assumption was ever correct. Where the camera I have appears to count correctly I'm less inclined to think there is a problem with that gear.</p>
<p>Open to any ideas or just tell me that switching the power switch off and back to on is normal and acts like a manual film advance crank :)</p>
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<p>I use a handheld meter whenever I'm shooting with film and I'm so used to it that sometimes I prefer to use the handheld in incident mode with the DSLR. It just seems to do a better job with exposure than the DSLR's metering sometimes when there isn't a good balance of light and dark in a composition.</p>
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<p>An adapter will allow use of threaded filters as well as use of a generic clip in lens cap. I have a couple of these in different sizes. Being cheap they aren't of a great build quality, but work as they are supposed to.</p>
<p>Hasselblad Bayonet 50 B50 - 62mm Step Ring.......<br>
http://fotodiox-inc.amazonwebstore.com/Fotodiox-Hasselblad-Bayonet-50-B50-62mm/M/B001G494AG.htm</p>
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<p>Paul, If you're referring to the lack of a gliding mirror (viewfinder vignetting) in the 501C, I haven't found that be a major disadvantage, at least with what I presently have for lenses (up to a 250mm). If there are some other significant disadvantages, I'm not yet aware of them.</p>
<p>Just to clarify......<br>
<em>"if you do not plan to use a flash the 501CM is the same camera as the 503CW"</em><br>
The 503CW adds on TTL capability to control the flash. The 501C and 501CM can use flash that is not TTL controlled via the PC connector.</p>
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<p>I bought my first Hasselblad kit, a 501C with an 80mm from an ebay seller. I looked at his feedback, as well as what else he was selling. The kit I received was as described and works perfectly. I subsequently have bought other gear from this same seller and have had no problem with any of the purchases. He offers a 14 day return which further helped my confidence in the seller.<br>
Currently he has a 503CX with a 150mm lens kit for auction. Aside from a difference in the mirror system I'm not sure what else may be different from a 503CW. The 150mm lens isn't a "normal" lens to be with a kit, but the 150mm is one most folks will eventually get and an 80mm could be purchased fairly easily. The ebay item number is 150811056019 (excuse me if it's not appropriate to post a referral to an item for sale, wasn't sure if it's OK)</p>
<p>Pengtao, Have you considered a 501C or 501C/M? They do have a few less features than the 503 series, but one that is in good condition and well maintained is certainly capable of the same quality of photos that a 503 could achieve. If you research the differences you may find one of the 501 series may meet your needs and save some money as well.</p>
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<p>I just recently did this to a bellows on an old Beseler 23C enlarger I had acquired. It had some folds where there shouldn't be and didn't extend evenly. Not like new, but it does flex a bit better.</p>
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<p>How many here are shooting film rather than digital regardless of the format? I rather wonder if Beverly's dissatisfaction with digital stems not from a particular lens used on a DSLR, but that digital simply has a different look than film. I've shot digital with full frame for a number of years, but found myself going back to MF film for B&W which I process myself. I just wasn't getting what I wanted for B&W with digital. Digital color images have been acceptable compared to film for what I do, but I think in part leaning towards digital is the cost of color film processing.</p>
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<p>From the DOFMaster calculator there is a difference in the DOF and I do notice a difference between my crop and FF DSLR's when using equivalent lens focal lengths. I'm a willing listener if you can explain otherwise.</p>
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<p>Another difference from medium format to your DSLR will be a slight increase in the depth of field when a lens is used that is the equivalent to your 150mm at similar apertures. This may make a subtle difference when comparing images from each camera. A full fame DSLR would tend to compare better to the Hasselblad for its depth of field.<br /> As far as trying out a camera and lens, is there an option to rent the gear to see if it would work out?<br /> I have purchased adapters so I could use my screw mount filters on the Hasselblad bayonet mounts. I would believe there are adapters so Hasselblad filters could be used on a DSLR lens so long as the filter wasn't too small for the lens size. This could save on the cost of new filters. Any reason though why you wouldn't use a software filter in your image editing software to achieve a slightly diffused look?</p>
<p>I guess I type slow...Nathan beat me to the DOF thing. :)</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>Yes, shooting with colour film will give you the flexibility of having colour images or converting to B&W in CS5. I presently do this B&W conversion with some of my digital images shot with my DSLR.</p>
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<p>If you shoot B&W film you can't do anything in Photoshop to modify what would have been the original color content of a scene, so the filters that you mention would be needed. If you shoot color film, then a reasonable assimilation of B&W filters could be applied with software.<br>
For my Hasselblad lenses I purchased an adapter so I can use regular threaded filters on the Hasselblad bayonet mount. Used threaded filters used for B&W film can be found fairly easily and cheap on ebay and some retailers. If you buy used, look for a good brand name rather than a cheap no name filter.</p>
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<p>I would agree with others to send it to someone knowledgeable for repair, but if you decide to undertake it on your own.....<br>
http://www.scribd.com/doc/53625134/24375871-Hasselblad-Zeiss-Lenses-Service-Manual</p>
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<p>"<em>This forum isn't just for medium format digital cameras, but for film cameras in medium format as well. In fact the majority of contributors are probably still using film."</em><br>
<a href="../community/index">Community</a> > <a href="../community/forums">Forums</a> > <a href="http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/">Medium Format</a> > <a href="?category=Digital+Photography">Digital Photography</a> > D300s Manual Aperture settings...</p>
<p>I sort of knew that, but the Medium Format has a sub-forum for Digital Photography, so that's why I said what I said..... :)</p>
Bronica EC reliability question???
in Medium Format
Posted
<p>I have an old Bronica EC that I purchased new back in the 70's. Functionally most of the camera still works, with the exception of the battery check light, which isn't a big issue. The problem I encountered with the camera was the foam had deteriorated and this was particularly problematic on the foam that cushions the mirror slap as it had began sticking. I refoamed the camera myself and it is still usable as of today. Refoaming a camera should be able to be done by most good camera shops, but I have no idea what would be charged for such a repair.<br>
The EC was a good camera for me and it did a good number of weddings. Rather iffy if you can find one in good operational condition, but if one can be found cheap enough, perhaps it might be worth taking the chance as you already have decent lenses and backs.</p>