david_mcniven

<p>Metal lens mount, attached to metal mirror box, attached to metal rear frame used to be usual with higher end Nikons, guessing it's still the same.<br> Only the lens mount is visible from outside - the rest is behind plastic panels - which makes nice curved shapes and light weight easy.<br> Canon T90 was the first of the "ergonomics" IIRC. Before that cameras had corners.<br> The f801 was Nikon's first attempt - you can still see the family resemblance I think.<br> "Solid metal" isn't always better by the way. Plastic parts can often recover their shape after impacts which would destroy metal parts.<br> Retired in early noughties so I'm out of date and getting forgetful - I don't trust anything I think any more...<br> <br> </p>

<p>With a replacement plastic front panel available I would carefully pierce the existing front panel next to the button and operate the lens release that way. I'd have to use a burr on my pedestal drill 'cause my hands aren't steady enough for a dremel nowadays.<br> The front panel should be a relatively inexpensive part and it can be replaced in minutes.<br> You could consider asking a local repairer to access the release mechanism that way so it can be repaired temporarily.<br> If it's anything like previous models the mechanism is likely to be strained - always been able to reshape the parts in the past. A tiny amount of lubricant stops it happening again.<br> Then you could continue to use the camera with the "wound" taped over until the replacement panel arrives.<br> I'm a retired repairer too ... Hi Michael!<br /></p> <p> </p>

<p>It's an easy job if you manage to avoid touching any circuit boards, wire ends,cap terminals etc.<br> A jolt from a flash cap makes you drop/throw the unit on the floor - completely involuntarily.<br> I realise you guys will already know this stuff, this is just in case any other readers don't. <br> When I'd get a bad one I'd curse so loud & long I'd hear the neighbours laughing. </p>

<p>I'd probably try vibrating the release button while using gentle pressure to rotate the lens clockwise.<br> The side of the cutter blades on electric hair clippers or maybe an oscillating multi-tool (on low speed) could be used. Cover sharp corners with something soft like wound dressings/sticking plasters and be super careful.<br> Basically the same principle as rattling a lock open.<br> Definitely no guarantees and even if it works the body & lens will still need repair/checking - but it will be a much easier, cheaper and quicker repair.<br> Hope it works for you!</p>

<p>Hi everybody,<br> I'm just reviving this old thread because another member recently emailed me for a copy of the RZ67 repair manual.<br> The link to MediaFire (link) in my post (Mar 15, 2010) still works. The 3-part manual can be downloaded by anyone without joining or registering - just download one part at a time.<br> I don't often visit the forum because macular degeneration prevents me from focussing a camera now.<br> If any UK based ebayer wants to hear about a van load of pro film stuff just email me.<br> Not interested in selling piecemeal, sorry.</p> <p> </p>