rfarquhar

<p>I have had my copy for about a month. Unfortunately we have had a lot of rain, so I haven't been able to play with it as much as I'd like. I'm using it with a monopod, it's too heavy for me to handhold (but I expected that).<br>

In my gallery, the photos of the heron, and the sparrow are all taken with the Tamron 150-600mm. They aren't tagged because I can't find the Tamron 150-600mm in the equipment list.</p>

<p>I just got mine a week and a half ago. I don't have enough experience with different lenses to have much to really compare it against. (My total experience with lenses: the 18-105mm kit lens, a MF 50mm I use for macro, and an old 70-300mm).<br>

First impressions using it on a D90:<br>

- this lens is significantly heavier than my previous lenses, it's a little too heavy for me to handhold and I need a monopod. On the other hand, it's light enough that carrying it around in a backpack isn't too difficult.<br>

-the autofocus uses up battery power faster than my other lenses, but a backup battery solves that problem and would only be needed if you were planning to be gone all day.<br>

-given the right conditions it can be quite sharp, even if the subject is in motion. The heron pictures in my portfolio were all shot with the Tamron on a monopod, as was the sparrow. I haven't really tested it in truly dim lighting yet.<br>

If you have any questions I will try to answer them.</p>

 

<p>So far, my raptor shots (all of two really good ones) have come from being blessed with being in the right place at the right time WITH a camera. Never, ever leave your camera behind. I missed a great shot of a bald eagle soaring over the river (in the middle of the city! migrating maybe?) because I didn't have my camera with me.<br>

I also second trying for a raptor rehabilitation group. If nothing else, they are usually happy to educate the public, if they are sure you won't harass their hawks with what they tell you. Or, if you don't insist on wild birds, try looking for hawkers, who keep and hunt with hawks. If you are able to keep out of their way, they might be willing to let you go with them when they fly their birds. (Minnesota laws may not allow this, not sure.)</p>

<p>Very well done. I'm almost afraid to use mine now (or should that be afraid NOT to use mine?)</p>

<p>My mom and aunts have a lot of very old family photos. Some of these photos are 90 years old (or more) and are starting to fade. These photos are important to us and we want to preserve them. The negatives are long lost so we have to make copies of the prints. My aunt scanned some, but comparing I think the scanned copy lost details. I have a D90 and was thinking that maybe I could photograph them and keep more of the detail. Would this work? Would I have to avoid certain things, like flash, or risk fading the photos further? </p>

<p>I like e-books, provided the price is not that expensive. I avoid anything that has beeen DRM'ed because it's too much of a hassle when I want to transfer it between my reader, my computer and my harddrive. They require backing up just like photos or the money you just spent on them goes down the drain if your computer dies, and any publisher making it harder for me to do that loses my business. I don't want to pirate anything, but I also don't like seeing something I paid money for disappear.<br>

I don't like Kindle because Amazon has the ability to erase anything off of it they think you shouldn't have, and have used that ability.</p>

<p>Also, tripods and dogs are a bad combination unless you can stand right next to the camera.</p>

<p>I, too, have been working on getting good dog pictures. I'm probably repeating some stuff but this is what I've learned so far.<br>

1) Take as many shots as you can, as fast as you can, when you are going after action pictures. You will likely end up deleting most of them, but some will be keepers.<br>

2) If your dog fetches take a toy, throw it in the direction you want the dog to go, and then you'll be able to predict roughly where the dog will be. nothing is goofier than a dog with a toy.<br>

3) Find places with few distractions. They'll listen better. If you're photographing your own dog practice long sits/downs when you're not photographing then they will obey better when you have the camera<br>

4) When you can't get a dog to look at you with just a word, food works wonders.</p>

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<p>Try this online guide for NorthAmerican birds, I find it quite useful (not perfect, but useful):<br>

http://identify.whatbird.com</p>

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<p>Wow! I thought I had it bad. I just bought a brand new D90 and 18-105 mm 2 month ago and was thinking how nice it would be to add a wide-angle prime and longer lens (maybe 300mm). Compared to some of the lists here, that is nothing.</p>

<p>I was told you should turn your camera off when changing lenses because having the camera on gives the sensor a static charge that attracts dust. Is this wrong?</p>

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<p>I got my first photo related injury yesterday. Was focused on two fast moving dogs in bushes, zoomed in with the near objects all blurry, and walked into a tree that wasn't included in my viewfinder.</p>

<p>Since Clive's photo hasn't been commented on yet, I'll comment on his then post mine. I like the expression on the faces of the two men. The expressions are interesting and quite clear. I'm not sure I like the tilt, but that is personal preference, and I don't think you could straighten it without having to crop one of the men out. I'd also like to see a color version of this shot. I think some color would add to the atmosphere of celebration.</p><div></div>

<p>This is a picture taken with my brand new Nikon D90, just a couple days after buying it. I was trying to focus on the sitting mallard, saw movement, shifted slightly and shot. Couldn't do it again if I tried.</p><div></div>

<p>I just got my D90 kit yesterday. You get one box with the camera body and accessories (warranty, manual,battery,charger, cables,strap). The 18-105mm lens comes in a separate box with its warranty, manual, felt case and a hood. If you plan on buying the body only you wont get a hood. If you are getting one of the other lenses, ask the clerk if you get a hood with the lens.</p>

<p>As someone who is just beginning to learn how to properly use a camera, these are my suggestions, and what I would have liked to have someone do for me.<br>

First: Keep it simple. If you can spend several hours teaching, there is no need to cram everything in at once, and no need to go into extremely detailed explanations unless your student wants them. Maybe later, but not right at the start.<br>

Second: Start with composition, and one camera control at a time. I.e: Aperature, shutter speed, exposure, etc.<br>

Third: Take the camera and show your student how and exacatly which buttons to press to change one specific thing. (might have to show them 2 or 3 times) Let your student try it out, changing just that setting in several ways.<br>

Fourth: Give them some assignments to try at home. Maybe some of the ones I've seen suggested here, like shooting one object from a specified number of different angles, and then SHOW them why some images work better than others.</p>

<p>I've been saving for my 1st DSLR and have decided on a budget, and the camera I want. It's very close to Christmas, and I was wondering: Does anyone know approximately how much cameras go on sale for around Christmas/Boxing Day? I'm interested in the Nikon D90 specifically. Is it likely to go on sale? </p>