bert_gamory

<p>CONGRATS!!!!</p>

<p>Perhaps waiting for the rumored 7D mark II and hoping for a reasonable increase in ISO capability would be something to consider.</p>

<p>Jim,<br>

You may find the following links helpful. A forbidden website (Ken Rockwell) has some good info on how the Canon compatibility issue came to be (go to his site and do a search for "Canon compatibility". This one (<a href="http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/eosfaq/manual_focus_EOS.html">http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/eosfaq/manual_focus_EOS.html</a>) does a great job explaining the compatibility "issue". <br>

Good luck. Hopefully you will find this info of some use. I guess the question is what do you want to shoot (film, digital,both?)<br>

Bert</p>

<p>Also, you may want to try the "AI Servo" shooting mode. The AI Servo adjusts the focus for moving objects.</p>

<p>I was "volunteered" to shoot high school hockey by my girlfriend and after my first season, am still trying to figure optimum settings. Hockey has the ultimate challenges- low light, fast action which requires fast shutter speeds to avoid blur. But then fast shutter speeds mean expensive lenses and/or cameras. Sooo, after all that a few concrete suggestions.<br>

First, try to get to the penalty box. Not only are you closer to the action, but you generally avoid shooting through the glass or net present at many arenas. KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN!!! Be aware of what's going on- they have protective equipment- you don't!! Lastly, I think you'll need to spend more time learning photography. You've probably found out that shooting on automatic doesn't cut it. You'll need to be a better student of photography to be able to adjust your camera and get good shots of your son.<br>

I shoot with a Canon 7D. If you go that route, and get the 24- 105 lens, go for ISO between 1000 and 1600 if you can help it. I did AV at F4 with +2/3 or +1 exposure compensation. I find evaluative metering works best (not necessarily good, but best). Autofocus, go for the smaller box (3x3) or single center point.<br>

If shooting from the stands, you may want a 70- 200, or 70- 300 ( the canon old school 70- 210 F/4 has good quality but focuses too slow). If using a 70- 200 f/2.8 or f/4, ISO can be be between 1000 and 1600. If using the 70- 300 F4- F5.6 then you may need to set the camera to ISO 1600- 2500 depending on the brightness of the arena.<br>

Sound confusing? All the more why hockey photography requires you to be a student of the craft. Not trying to "indoctrinate you", but letting you know what's required for great images.<br>

Good luck and post a photo or two when you get them.</p>

<p>If you want one ultra-flexible lens that will stay on your camera and fit multiple shooting situation, I highly recommend the 18- 200. Imagine being able to zoom out and take a picture of someone three feet (one meter) from you, then zoom in on someone walking across the street in the time it took to read this last sentence. <br>

Yes, you could change lenses, but that would entail removing lens 1, finding and installing the lens cap and back cover (where the contacts are), then removing the lens cap for lens 2 and installing it. Would the two lens option yield better image quality, yeah I guess so, but in the time it took to change lens, you could miss the shot, in addition to having to lug around two lenses and expose the camera sensor to contamination every time you remove the lens.</p>

 

<p>Hi all,<br>

I'm interested in purchasing a used 7D from a private individual and wanted to know if anyone had any tips for "putting it through its paces" before the purchase.<br>

Any and all advice will be appreciated.</p>

<p>If you plan to use the 17-55 (or maybe you meant the 18-55) lens for a while, that pretty much closes out the 5Dii. Those lenses are specifically made for crop sensor cameras and CANNOT be used (safely) on full frame (5dii). Crop sensor and full frame Canon cameras can use the EF lenses (like the 17-55, 18-55, 15-85, etc), but ONLY crop sensor bodies can use EF-S lenses.<br>

Good luck with your decision. Sounds like no matter what camera you pick, it will be a good one!</p>

<p>I vote for the Canon 18- 200, a USM lens. With it you can take a picture of someone across the dinner table from you then zoom in on something across the street. Sure, primes and some others can give better image quality, but few others can match its flexibility and range.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I've seen a Zeiss Nikon mount lens for sale fairly reasonably, and I have an XSI. Does anyone know how well a Nikon to EOS adapter would work?<br>

Bert </p>

<p>Kira,<br>

There's a phrase that may come in handy. You might have heard it. It goes something like this, "...I'm sorry, but I'll have to decline as I busy that day, handing with friends, spending time with my children (husband, boyfriend), just don't feel like lugging around the camera, don't have the time to do post processing, etc..."</p>

<p>Some years back I was shooting film on a Nikon EM. I'd take it out and get a few good pics and was actually asked about shooting two weddings (they didn't want to pay for a professional photographer). For me, it's just a hobby, and like was said before, when money changes hands, everything is different.</p>

<p>Sometimes you'll want to do it, then do so. If not then, to coin a phrase, "...just say no..."</p>

<p>I can put in a positive vote for the Canon 18-200. I find it works well on my XSI and I've gotten some good shots with it in auto mode (also has IS).<br>

If I were to do it again, I might look at the Tamron or Sigma 18-250 just for the extra reach, but I'm happy with the Canon.</p>

<p>Do you have any Minolta (or Konica) lenses? If so, you might want to check into Sony. They bought out Konica/Minolta for their optics. Not sure about the compatibility, you'd have to check that out.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Not only that, but I don't believe teleconverters fit EF-S lenses. I can tell you for sure that the Kenko 1.4 won't fit the 18-200 (I have both). I did a search on this site and uncovered the info I just relayed to you.</p>

<p>Chris,<br>

At the risk of sounding insulting, shouldn't a professional, or someone who is/wants to be heading in that direction be shooting (and focusing) portraits manually?</p>

<p>JMHO</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

Has anyone notice that on Ebay there has been a explosion of these lenses up for auction (at least the Canon mount) from various large vendors. Does anyone have any ideas (or even theories) why?<br>

Bert</p>

<p>Hi all,<br>

I teach in the science department at a community college and one of my colleagues is interested in purchasing this camera:</p>

<h4 >Casio Exilim Pro EX-F1 6.0 Megapixel Digital Camera with 12x Optical Zoom and 2.8" LCD</h4>

<p>The attraction is its high speed- it can take pictures at up to 1200 frames per second. A few questions, does anyone have experience with this or a similar camera? Is this one recommended? Is there anything we should know or be aware of? Is 1 STOP camera and electronics a reputable dealer to buy from?</p>

<p>Any and all input is appreciated.</p>

<p>Hi,<br /> <br /> Newbie here and to photography. I'm looking to invest in some lenses for my XSI. I have some Canon lenses (18-55, 18-200, 70-300 and 50mm 1.8 and a Tokina 12-24 f4 on the way. I'm looking to invest in f2.8, but not quite up to the Canon level ($$), and can't seem to decide between the following: Tamron 17-50 (non VC), Tamron 28-75, Sigma 18-50, and possibly the Sigma 24-70.<br>

<br /> Initially, I was going to get the Tamron 17-50 as most said it gave sharp images wide open, but now I've warmed up to the Tamron 28-75.<br /> <br /> Any and all advice is welcome!</p>