arthur_mcculloch2

<p>Thanks for the advice and responses. I had thought of Oleg, but understood that he had got out of repairs. Anyway, the post is prohibitive. I think that I'll try to take the rear shutter cover off - only five screws - and have a look. Maybe a general touch up and lube will do the trick. And at least I'll be able to visually check the ribbons. I've jus ordered some replacement ribbon from eprey, and give replacement a go. Worst case scenario is to play russian roulette again and buy another one, as suggested. Use this one as a breaker/source of spares.</p> <p>Thanks again</p> <p>Apiarist1 (Arthur)</p>

<p>Hi</p> <p>I've just branched into kiev's ( a bit late in life, after enjoying 2 retina IIc's and 2 Mockba 5's as my rangefinders). Purchased a Kiev 4A and a Kiev 4AM thru eprey, and talk about russian roulette: the Kiev 4AM's self timer didn't work and the flash sync was unconnected. That was sorted. The second was a Kiev 4A, but on slow speeds (below 1/125) the first curtain 'hangs' - it won't open fully, leaving about a 1/4" of it still visible - this is most obvious with the B setting, but also obvious on the very slow speeds.<br> So, I'm familiar with the Kiev rescue site and Rick Oleson's great contribution, but what I wanted to ask is, what might be the problem here? The Kiev rescue site and Rick only give how to replace the shutter tapes, not advice on what might be happening to cause the first curtain lag/hanging. Any ideas greatly appreciated, before I open the body, would be appreciated (I could never afford a contax, so this frolic was just an attempt to get a 'taste' of a classic from afar).<br> Thanks<br> Apiarist1 (Arthur)</p>

<p>Tony, lovely photos. Where do you source your PMK from - I'd like to try it. Thanks in anticipation</p> <p>Apiarist1(Arthur)</p>

<p>Thanks Rodeo Joe for that 'recipe' and the link. I used rodinal a lot in the 70's and 80's, and will try your recipe out. Any advice on starting dilutions and times (I mainly use FP4). Like most posters, I use a digital (D7100), but have three lovely F2's and 2 Nikkormats, which are regularly exercised. Sover Wong recently serviced one, and I'll progressively, and hopefully, get him to service the other two. The F2's are just so classic - almost extensions of your hands, and with a re-assuring feel of solidity. Enjoy yours Bob, and post some photos.<br> Apiarist1(Arthur)</p>

<p>Steve</p> <p>What are you asking for the outfit? Does it include some film holders? And where are you advertising it?. I have a Shen-Hao, which is light, versatile, but requires a tripod. I also know that the xenar has a very limited field of coverage. Let me know. Hand held is attractive. I'm in Taree. Regards Apiarist1 (Arthur)</p>

<p>William<br> I, like others, suspect it's an artifact of development, though it may be prudent to replace the seals on the back (they can be obtained on eprey), as you plan to do. I recently took my 124G to India (for black and white) and when I developed the film upon returning home found edge light leaks. They were solved by replacing the foam seals on the back door. It's a great camera. At f5.6 and above, an incredibly sharp and contrasty lens (though as I age, focussing is becoming harder because of deficits in eyesight). The meter is a bit 'iffy', but with b&w you've got great latitude. And many people just don't know what it is (although, many residents of the subcontinent did, few if any of the others on the tour did, with one asking 'is that a hasselblad?'). Enjoy it.</p>

<p>John,<br> I have a d7000 and was likewise thinking of getting a d7100 body since prices are falling, but am going to wait. Like Hector and Kent, the problems I have with the 7000 are the easiness of inadvertently moving the mode dial and its abysmal low light focussing ability. IQ is still more than adequate for me (6x4 and 5x7, with sometimes a lash out to 8x10), but its the previous generation image processor. If those things are important, go for it. I'd prefer to wait and spend my hard earned cash on the next incarnation, if I were to. The d7001 is at the end of its product cycle, and its price will probably fall considerably even at its reduced prices now. Good luck with your decision</p> <p>Apiarist1 (Arthur)</p>

<p>Thanks Dave. Should use it more often!!<br> Apiarist1(Arthur)</p>

<p>I have an ETRSi which I haven't used much at all over the last few years. I decided to get it out and get back into medium format film a couple of months ago. The camera seemed to work fine, some underexposure, but I put that down to it having a 'guessamatic' exposure meter (me using sunny f16). I took it to a function this last weekend with a flash ( a sunpak with the BR-D module so that I could use the off the film measuring), using a 45-90 lens (itself a huge piece of glass), which I recently bought on ebay and which likewise appears not to have been recently used. The flash wouldn't work. When I got home, I put another lens on it and used a normal flash connected to the flash connector and it worked, though not at all speeds. I then cleaned the six lens mount contact points and re-tried the sunpak with BR-D connector. It seemed to work ok at all speeds. I'm guessing that the lens controls the flash trigger? Has anyone else had similar trouble. I cleaned the contact points with methylated spirits and a q-tip. Is there a better cleaning solution? Any thoughts?</p> <p>Apiarist1 (Arthur)</p>

<p>Hi<br> I had occasion to use my D7000 two nights ago with the lowest SB flash - it was a dinner function. Disconcertingly, on several occasions, the autofocus would 'hunt', finally settle down, but the camera would not then fire. I turned it off, then back on, and mostly, it would then work. The lens was an Nikkor 18-200. Camera set to P. Is this a problem? Thanks for any advice<br> Arthur (Apiarist1)</p>

<p>Hi. I've inherited a zeiss ikon colora, with a pronto shutter. The fellow who gave it to me said that he had taken the last two shots of the film that was in it. He said the shutter worked. But when I got it, the wind on lever would not wind on, and the shutter switch seems to be stuck on charge. The shutter won't fire. I tried putting some film in it, but still wouldn't work. I'll look up, or try to, a manual for it tomorrow, but any ideas on how to proceed. Basically, it appears that the shutter is stuck in the charged position.</p> <p>Thanks in advance Apiarist1 (Arthur)</p>