matt_blomqvist

<p>I'm using it at EI 200 without a filter. The film has really nice dark tones. I'd use a lot more this film but it's a bit pricey for me. </p>

<p>I recently bought a MG 6250 with six individual ink tanks. So far I've only used Epson glossy paper for my prints. Black and white prints do have a slight magenta tint but otherwise the printer has been worth the money. </p>

<p>The problem is the Silverfast driver software is either old or behaving badly. Look for a driver update from Silverfast or try to re-install the driver. <br>

My own Plustek 7400 scanner only finds the driver software when I switch it on *after* my PC it's attached to is on and running. </p>

 

<p>The lens locking mechanism is reliable and sturdy. No problems there. My camera repair person tells me there's one gear in the film winding mechanism that might eventually wear out if you treat the mechanism badly. So take it easy when winding a new frame. </p>

 

<p>I do like RC a lot but it's not what I'd call equivalent to a Leitz lens. In my view the Rollei 35 (Tessar or Sonnar) is much more like it.</p>

<p>My choice for small and light is the Rollei 35. Tessar or Sonnar lens, it doesn't make a difference to me. Both are beautiful. </p>

<p>I was out shooting with a Ib today (and yesterday too!). It's a nice camera to operate. Always set the shutter speed first and only then the aperture setting. I've always been a big fan of Xenar lenses and the one in 1b is an excellent performer. You don't shoot a scale focus camera with large apertures very often so I wouldn't care too much if someone says that some other lens is marginally better fully open.</p>

<p>Nikon SB-800 includes everything you can ever want from a flash used with whatever imaginable camera, old and new, film and digital (Nikon digital of course).<br>

SB-600 is very good but only with TTL/iTTL compatible Nikon film/digital cameras. You cannot use SB-600 with your Kodak Retina or Leica for example (missing PC socket, missing A-mode).</p>

<p>Timo, just to let you know that I managed to repair a broken 56/2 shutter just the other day. If you take a hard look at the shutter mechanism you will soon find out how it's supposed to work.<br>

Korjausterveisin,<br>

Mb</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Dante Stella has written a good tutorial of the subject here: http://dantestella.com/technical/fill.html</p>

<p>Shot several rolls with Rolleicord V until my labrador knocked off the tripod outside in the snow and its shutter froze and jammed.</p>

<p>I received a nice present yesterday. A Kodak Retina 1b in good condition.</p>

<p>The real performance of the Canon 9000f is similar to that of Epson 600. 2400dpi is the maximum it can do. Everything above 2400dpi is just white noise which increases the file size enormously but doesn't do anything on scan quality. I scan my B&W 6x6 negs at 2400dpi and 16bit .tiff, sometimes 1200dpi. I read from somewhere that Canon has a native resolution of 1200 and 2400dpi and everything else is interpolated by software. Makes sense to me. Both scanners have lousy neg holders in my opinion. A betterscanning.com neg holder is much better. </p>

<p>Eman, read this article and pay attention to the flash part: http://www.ph.utexas.edu/~yue/misc/35RD.html</p>

<p>My Canon P is doing exactly the same thing but so far only with faster shutter speeds like 1/1000s. Sometimes the capping disappears by itself like with my Zorki-1 which was capping pretty badly when I got it but not any more after some use. </p>

<p>I've had and used most of the usual FSU suspects. There are two models that I like particularly. My favourite must be the FED-1 or the equivalent Zorki-1. Both are straight copies of Leica II. They are much rougher than a Leica naturally but the size and handling is just as great and fast once you get used to it. Not easy to find in top notch condition but relatively easy to service even by oneself. My second fave must be the Zorki-4 or 4k. The latter has a winding lever instead of a knob. Zorki-4 is a largish rangefinder camera, about the size of a Yashica GSN. All FSU rangefinders are built for 50mm lens. If you want to use 35mm only you better look elsewhere. My recommendation would be the Canon P which takes same LTM lenses as the FSU cameras. Not a lot more expensive but much much more refined and a classy street shooter.</p>

<p>My Zorki-1d with Industar-22 is a good and reliable performer. <br /><br /><br>

<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3298/4568285886_4a2326c3ac_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="421" /></p>

<p> </p>

<p>At least the original V screen is really dim and dark. Fortunately you can buy a brighter replacement screen for $30.</p>

<p>My favourite filter for B&W landscape must be a yellow-green. I only have one yellow-green filter in 52mm diameter. In the summertime I use a lot of polarizer with my SLR cameras and all kinds of ND filters with my rangefinders. One filter I would like to have is the rare Minolta Autopol polarizer for Bay-1 TLR cameras.</p>

<p>I had a Bessa R, a Leica M4-P and a Canon P. They are all very good cameras but in the end I only kept the Canon P. Actually I have two of them right now but I might sell the other one later. I've also had a series of different Canon LTM lenses. My favourite Canon lenses must be the 35mm/1.8 and the 50mm/1.4 which I think is almost as good as the 50mm Pre-ASPH Summilux. The 50mm/1.2 is nice to have too but it's a bit too large for P and could feel more balanced with the 7 I guess. I also have two sets of quite rare Canon P accessory light meters. Both are of the newer, swinging type and work accurately. Finally I have a few Canon reloadable metallic film cassettes which I use regularly.</p>

 

<p>Some Jupiter-12 lenses can be used with Canon P. You can check yours easily by opening the shutter (T) and watching it from the back as you mount the lens. I've seen lens copies that very slightly touch the light baffles and some other that don't. It's a very close fit in any case.<br>

Most M39 lenses can be used with Canon P without problems. I have two Canon P bodies and a small collection of Leica and Canon M39 lenses and never had any problems.</p>

<p>Well.. from the M3 until the M4-P the shutter speed dial turn direction didn't really play a role because there was no light meter thus no red arrows in the viewfinder. Then M6 classic came along with the light meter... and people noticed that the dial is turning in the wrong direction. So they corrected it with the M6 TTL. It's that simple.</p>

<p>You can take the manual route that Rick described above or optionally use 3D TTL flash metering in P mode and - this is really important when shooting in daylight - select the rear sync mode from your camera.</p>

<p>Canon P can be used with collapsible lenses. I've used mine with Summitar 50mm/2 and Elmar 50mm/3.5 with no problems. I like my Canon P so much I recently sold my Leica M4-P because it didn't get any use. </p>

<p>Here's another happy user of the Canon 100mm/3.5. I have the early version.</p>