expfc_wintergreen

<p>Lately, I have been "scanning" my prints with a D90 and a 60mm micro lens because the future of film scanners looks pretty bleak to me, but research and development for digital cameras is going strong.<br>

I tried some Kodachrome 25 slides that I stupidly used for a family portraits back in 1992 or so. I scanned the same slide with a Canon FS4000US, an Epson 4490, and my D90, and cropping each scan so that a face filled the screen in each scan, I couldn't tell the difference between the Canon dedicated film scanner and the D90 scans; the epson scan was soft at that size. If you have a first rate macro lens, it is going to beat out the lens on the flat bed and even the dedicated film scanner.<br>

I have tried a couple of different ways of doing this. At first I used I used the camera attachment to mount the D90 on an 6x7 LPL enlarger column and used the head for my light source and a slide carrier to hold the slide. This worked extremely well as long as I got the camera level. Lately, I have been using a tripod and a light box; with that you have to make sure the camera and the light box are both level. Soon, I am going to get the Nikon slide holder and a 20mm tube (or smash the glass out of some 52mm filters) for a spacer so I don't have to obsess over levelness. I found out on my second run of slide copying that levelness makes a heck of a difference; if not level, part of the file will be out of focus. If you don't have a macro lens, you can get an adapter that allows you to reverse mount a 50mm lens for closer focusing for about $53 (Nikon BR-2A), $12 if you buy an off brand @ Amazon. Nikon even makes an adapter that enables you to mount a 52mm filter on the front of the reversed lens (BR-3) for about $45. You can also try extension tubes. I haven't tried the reverse ring method but tried using tubes, and they work really well. When reverse mounting on a Nikon you lose auto focus and metering; I lost both with the tubes also, but I think there are extension tubes that retain auto focus and metering.<br>

I have also copied color negatives and processed them through VueScan to make a positive image; then I open the file in Photo Shop Elements and use auto levels, contrast, color correction and sharpen under "enhance" in the menu.<br>

The "Scan Tips" web site has a section on using a 60mm micro lens and Nikon slide holder for copying slides on a DSLR.<br>

Someone else makes an adaptor for holding negative strips. You save a lot of file space too because the files average about 8 megabytes.<br>

You don't have dust removal of course, but I think 5 minutes is about the time I took to repair the dust spots on individual files; some were less than 2, mostly depending on how much sky was in the picture. I think the defused light source helps with this. I did my repairs at the actual pixel size, but if you aren't that picky you can enlarge the file to the same size you are going to print and only repair visible defects at that size. I spent at least this much time with files from my Canon and Epson scanners.<br>

A lot of people say this doesn't work as well as a scanner, but I think they either haven't tried it or didn't devote enough time to get it right. I am determined to make it work.<br>

The biggest prints I have made so far leave about a 3/4 inch border top and bottom and 1/4 inch on the sides of an 8 1/2 x 11 print. when I get another ink cartridge and some 13 x 19 inch paper, I plan to make some 12 x 18 inch prints.<br>

Another thing is you have to be careful to frame it right or else you can lose some of your picture or have it tilted. Sloppy framing has been my biggest problem so far. I'm still working on a way to get repeatable results with no cropping while still filling the frame.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Kodak has some some reasonably priced photo printers with bargain priced ink. If you print out a 4x6 inch color picture and a text document on alternating weeks you shouldn't have any problems with clogs.</p>

<p>Jeff Spirer wrote:<br>

"I shoot in environments with blood, sweat, and booze flying."</p>

<p>So you cover Congress?</p>

<p>Why not a smaller Nikon DSLR and maybe smaller lenses?</p>

<p>Thanks so much to everyone for your thoughtful responses.<br>

I am going to research all of the names and try to judge them on quality rather than price.<br>

Once again, thank you.</p>

 

<p>Charles Becker wrote: "I think you should probably tell everyone where you are so that they can make a recommendation-it's a big world out there. cb :-)"</p>

<p>I am outside of Memphis, TN.<br>

I am more concerned with excellence than distance. Local and fast would be great, but I can handle distant and slow if they are reliable.<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>Can anyone recommend an outstanding camera and lens repair shop for Nikon grey market bodies and lenses?<br>

My immediate need is to have a 35mm f/2 repaired (the oil on the aperture blades problem), but I also have FM2's and FM3's that will need repair eventually.<br>

I asked here first because I thought people in a classic camera forum would have more experience with camera repair than those in the regular Nikon forum who probably don't need repair as often on their newer cameras.<br>

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks for your response. It was really what I wanted to read.<br>

Good point about it being more fun to take pictures than to scan.</p>

<p>Thank you for the response.<br>

I was hoping the enhanced scan from NCPS or the standard scans from MPI would be good for 4X6, 8X12, and 12X18 if I did my part correctly.<br>

I will try a roll at each place and see what happens.<br>

Thanks again.</p>

 

<p>Anyone tried MPI or NCPS for developing and scanning of C41, E6, and conventional black and white film?<br>

I am mostly interested in how their scans compare to scans from a Nikon CS 9000 and the quality of their development of Tri-X and other black and white films. I shoot 35 mm.<br>

I have been trying to decide whether to save for a Nikon Cool Scan 9000 or a Nikon D700. If I can get very good scans from MPI or NCPS at a reasonable price, I will buy the D700; if not, I will probably bite the bullet and buy the Cool Scan and wait for a digital full frame until the prices come down.<br>

MPI is local to me, and NCPS will require mail which will add to the time and the price.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Nikon FM2n; EX-$245<br>

Nikon AF 28-105 f/3.5-4.5; EX-$165<br>

used at KEH.<br>

Olympus Stylus Tough 8000 5.0-18.2 (28-102 35mm equivalent) waterproof, shockproof, freeze-proof, crush-proof. MSRP new is $379.99.<br>

The places you are going will be easier to get film than to charge batteries.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks to everyone for your responses; they have given me a lot to think about.</p>

<p>For several reasons, I have become uncomfortable about the security of my home when I am not there. I have several slr's that I really like (FM2n and FM3a) that are no longer available new and lenses that would be hard to replace even with insurance. I was wondering if the conditions in a safety deposit box at a bank would lead to fungus growth on lenses, rust mechanical slr's, or screw up the electronics of dslr's or be a detriment in other ways that I haven't envisioned.<br>

Having to go to the bank to get a camera and lens would be inconvenient but not as inconvenient as taking them with me everywhere I go like I do now.<br>

Insurance and burglar alarms for me aren't the answer and moving isn't an option.<br>

Thanks in advance for any insights or suggestions.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Or<br>

Adorama has a Nikon refurbished D700 for $2170.<br>

Then go to KEH and get the Nikkor 35mm f/2 and Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 used in Excellent condition.<br>

I think digital is headed for full-frame as the standard, and there are a world of good wide angle Nikkor lenses available for full frame at reasonable prices.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>2 D90's<br>

Nikkor 60 mm Micro 2.8, also good for portraits.<br>

Nikkor 20 mm 2.8<br>

You have the full-frame equivalent of 30 mm and 90mm and don't have to swap lenses, so lessen dust issues.</p>

 

<p>The Kodak ESP line will save you a lot of money on ink and prints very good pictures with pigment ink. The ESP 3 is generally available for less than $100; the color cartidge is $15, the black is $10.<br>

Wilhelm Research rates Kodak Photo papers printed with their ubiquitous #10 pigment ink cartridges framed under glass from a low of 120 years for Kodak Premium 4 star glossy to a high of 260 years for Kodak Ultra Premium; under glass with a UV filter, longevity for most Kodak photo papers increases to 300 years as does dark storage in a photo album in controlled temperature and humidity.<br>

I print a lot more pictures with it just because the ink is such a bargain, and the pictures generally come out looking the same as they do on my computer screen.<br>

Two weaknesses: Kodak doesn't make any 12x18 or bigger printers, and there are no drivers for the Linux or BSD operating systems.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thank you for your answers, gentlemen.<br>

Ken</p>

<p>I have the same model 70-210 that you do, and like the others, mine doesn't show any distortion.<br>

I used to get excellent results mounting mine on a Nikon 2x teleconverter on a tripod and shoot-<br>

ing Kodak Technical Pan and blowing the prints up to 16x20 with an enlarger (back in the dark<br>

ages).</p>

 

<p>Is there a limitation on the size of SDHC cards for the D80 and D40x. I have 2 Gigabyte cards but was thinking of going to 8 or 16 or 32. I have read the manuals and searched the Nikon website and haven't found a limitation.</p>