lunomi

<p>There could have been other minor variations, but these are major updates of the F/F2 (type A) screens as far as I I know.</p>

<p>1. Engraved White Letter with small screws (8 per mm Fresnel lens pitch)<br>

2. Printed White Letter with small screws (8 per mm Fresnel lens pitch)<br>

3. Printed White Letter (8 per mm Fresnel lens pitch)<br>

4. Printed Yellow Letter (12 per mm Fresnel lens pitch)<br>

5. Printed Red Letter (24 per mm Fresnel lens pitch)</p>

<p>In the following blog, a guy reports the rangefinder adjustment of his AL.<br>

http://masaty.seesaa.net/article/72510919.html (written in Japanese)</p>

<p>And a very good picture which indicates where the forth screw is located.<br>

http://masaty.up.seesaa.net/image/IMG_0959.jpg<br>

<br />The screw with the red arrow is it. The two without arrows are the lock screws (you can see green paint on them). You can access all of them through the small round service window on the top cover.</p>

<p>This guy says the one with the yellow allow is for vertical adjustment and the red one (hidden one) is for holizontal in his article. So, if he is correct, my prediction that hidden one is for vertical may souds wrong, but I have one thing I still remember well,</p>

<p>"Holizontal adjustment affects the vertical alignment to some great extent, and vertical adjustment also affects the holizontal alignment to some great, and furthermore, even tightening the lock screws affect both alignments to some extent. And what I remember most is that I had such a hard time before I satisfied..."</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I presume the bottom (hidden) one is for holizontal alignment.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Sorry, I meant it vertical.</p>

<p>I purchased the AL some years ago and fixed its rangefinder alignment when it came. Actually, there are FOUR screws to adjust the alignment. One for holizontal, another one for vertical, and other two for the lock. The forth screw is located at lower place than the other three. I think you were not successful because you were just turning the lock screws. I've already forgot which screw is for which, but I presume the bottom (hidden) one is for holizontal alignment. The lock screws can be identified from the adjustment screws by their green color paint on their top. I hope you'll succeed.</p>

<p>The eyepiece for the F3 (standard-eyepoint) perfectly fits on the Nikomat FTn, and you can still purchase it new! If you want to use the accesorry shoe with the mat, it's a bit tight to screw in, but it still fits. If you want to use the eyecup to shield your view, the DK-4 lubber eyecup fits on the F3 eyepiece. (DK-4 is already discontinued and rather rare, though)</p>

<p>Sensia and T64 are still on the Fuji site Japan with no discontinued notice, and they are indeed available. Distributers in some countries seem to have stopped importing and selling them, though.</p>

<p>I don't recommend any variable aperture zoom for the FM2. The FM2 is a fully manual camera, and it doesn't have any automatic exposure mode. While the body with automatic exposure (the likes of FE2 or F3) can change its shutter speed automatically and steplessly corresponding to the aperture, the FM2 requires operator's exposure readjustment anytime you zoom (anytime aperture change occurs) by tweaking the aperture ring on the lens. Readjusting the exposure with the body like FM2 is not easily done like you do with a modern electric camera on the manual exposure mode, which only requires just clicking the dials to adjust 1/3 stop or so. And furthermore, the F number shown in the FM2's viewfinder is not the real F number with the variable aperture lenses; it only shows the number on the wide side of the zoom. If you want to use a handheld lightmeter, which becomes a real mess.<br>

So, if you want to choose a zoom starting from around 35mm, I would recommend:<br>

36-72/3.5 series E (compactness/lightness)<br>

35-70/3.5 Ai (image/built quality)<br>

50-135/3.5 Ai (image/built quality & tele capability)</p>

<p>I recently bought the AL myself and suceeded in adjusting the rangefinder a few days ago. The tricky thing is you can easily affect the adjustment by tightening the lock screw(s). So, you have to adjust it little by little.<br>

The strategy is like this,<br>

loose both adjustment and lock screws >> tighten adjustment screw(s) > tighten the lock screw > confirm the adjustment through the finder >> tighten adjustment screw(s) > tighten the lock screw > confirm the adjustment through the finder >> tighten .........<br>

<br>

Hope you'll suceed.</p>