tim_eastman

<p>Ben:<br>

You should take a look at the PanoGuide website: http://www.panoguide.com/ People there will be very helpful. I believe the issue was covered in this thread: http://www.panoguide.com/forums/tipsntricks/4554/ You would do well to cover the basics first before venturing into stereo world.<br>

When thinking of stereo images though, my mind keeps going to the Steve Martin movie The Jerk, where his invention results in people going cross eyed!</p>

<p>Every situation will be different, so a one size fits all approach will not give you the best results. It can be time consuming, but playing around with different settings will let you figure out your favorite settings. One question for other NN users is whether they do any sharpening in NN or sharpen later in Photoshop. I have also heard to use NN first in the workflow.</p>

<p>The OP has a legitimate question. My D80 has CA problems, though not as bad. Using the same lens on a D300 almost eliminates the problem. Of course the D300 has built in CA correction, which manages to make shots useable, which with the D80 were not salvageable even using CA corrections in CS2. It is largely a lens issue, but the camera can make a huge difference in my case.</p>

<p>Why not buy the 18 - 200 Nikon? It is less cumbersome than walking around with two bodies. There are those here who put it down, but I have been very happy with mine. This gentleman:<br>

http://www.banffcentre.ca/mountainculture/archives/festivals/photo/2002/eastman.asp<br>

is also very impressed with it and uses it most of the time, and I trust his judgement!</p>

<p>I'll add my vote for PM as a first step. It is so fast I don't understand why Bridge is so painfully slow. Adobe counts on people not knowing they don't have to wait forever to have their images load! It is also nice to be able to ingest the pictures to two locations, a working file and a backup location.</p>

<p>Try desaturating the red a little bit in Photoshop if you have it. Unfortunately Nikons tend towards exaggerated reds.</p>

<p>I would vote for the NN5. It is a very good product at a reasonable price. NN's customer service canot be beat. " How is the company to deal with? " You might find differing views on 360 Precision. By all accounts they make a first rate product, but the customer relations have been a source of much discussion. By contrast, I put in a request for an accessory to Bill Bailey, NN's rep in AZ. I was leaving for vacation in a few days and had my shipment with two days to spare. NN is cultivating an extremely loyal customer base with its exemplary service and rapid innovation, a refreshing novelty in today's customer-is-last world.</p>

<p>Rob:<br>

I have seen a few posts by people who sold their D300 and bought a D90. I have been able to test the D300 against my D80, and the consistent metering of the D300 is a huge plus. Also, the D300 is far better at dealing with chromatic aberration, more evident in wide lenses, but also in my18-200 Nikon. Even CA from the D80, corrected in Photoshop is much worse than out of the camera images from the D300. All of that said, how do you compare the D90 to the D300? There are some opinions that the D90 is not a huge step up from the D80, but in my limited ability to test it, the D90's CA reduction is on a par with the D300. How about metering? That is the critical question. I love that my D80 is lighter, and can also think of times when the camera is high on a tripod and the info display on the back would be very handy.</p><div></div>

<p>As someone who does 360 deg panoramas I would love to have Nikon incorporate a level / plumb sensor. Maybe with the info. accesible via a remote device. </p>

<p>Any Tokina 11-16 Nikon D80 users have experience with dramatic overexposure? My very first shot, and many afterwards, have been completely blown out. Sometimes unmounting the lens and remounting solves the problem. Tried it on a D300, same problem. Borrowed a 12-24 Nikon and compared the two; Nikon exposures were right on, Tokina way over. Took it back to dealer who will send it to Tokina for adjustment. I hope they make it right. I bought it 7/6/09 and feel that if the problem is not resolved I should get a full refund, which I will put towards a new Nikon.</p>