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thidglance

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Posts posted by thidglance

  1. <p>I have a 3005 Jobo Expert setup so don't need this reel setup. I've also had issues with consistency around the edges of 4x5 in the equivalent jobo 2509 reels / drums but I have to say I'd go 3 sheets in a drum vs 3 sheets in a tray any day. I always had issues with scratches and extra edge development with trays - not to mention spending 20min in the dark, vs 2 min.<br>

    The CPE processors which suit the smaller drums are a few hundred vs a few thousand for the CPP processors required for the expert drums, not to mention the massive size difference.</p>

  2. <p>Beautiful camera, I have the same kit, but that's far too much to pay today. For that kind of money you should expect to get a full kit, 50mm, 150mm, flash and some extras... atleast.</p>
  3. <p>Probably like most people here on photo.net I have too many cameras, this year I've made a pact with myself to cull the collection down, get some of these gems in the hands of other people so they are taking photos. Cameras are for using, not looking at etc.<br>

    I have a bit of a dilemma with my Hasselblad kit, if I should sell it complete or separate all the bits. I know on Ebay separating is the way to go, but I sort of like it as a setup and I'd like it to go to someone who wants to use it as a complete kit too. The question is then how much to advertise it for ?</p>

    <p>Here's what I have:</p>

    <p>- Black 501c Body with a waistlevel<br>

    - Black 501c Body with a 45 degree non metered prism<br>

    - 2 x Black A12 Backs<br>

    - 80mm C lens with hood<br>

    - 150mm CF lens with hood<br>

    - Polaroid back and about 10 packs of sealed and freshish film (mostly 100 speed colour)</p>

    <p>I replaced the darkslides which came with all three backs as they were a bit dinged, and added darkslide keepers as well.<br>

    It's all in good user condition, bit of paint missing here and there, but has been serviced and well looked after.<br>

    Thoughts folks ?</p>

     

  4. <p>I guess I should explain the film choice abit more. For a wedding it's important the images have the same 'look' - using the same film stock helps with this alot. 400 to 800 - the film has a really different look interms of grain and also the colour. It's really hard to get skin to look as nice with 800. The difference between 160 and 400 is much less, though with a film like Portra 400NC, there really isn't a big advantage using 160 at all, unless it's an outdoor wedding the whole way.</p>
  5. <p>Personally when I shoot weddings it's with one or two fast lenses and one film speed. There are too many ways to make mistakes changing between films. I'd forget flash all together unless you are very experienced with how it looks with your camera, lens and the films you're using. Everytime I use flash at a wedding I end up regretting it. <br>

    You can shoot ISO 400 at F1.4 until it's pretty much too dark to see.<br>

    I'd take the 28,50 and 85 mm lenses and then I'd only use the 50mm 1.4 95% of the time. Throw in a few images with the 90 for flavour, can be good for details during the service too. 28mm only for groups if you can't fit everyone in with the 50mm.</p>

  6. <p>First reaction, flash, I hate flash and music. It makes it really hard for me to link to one of your images and show a friend etc, or book mark stuff I really like. So in the end it means I'll never come back and look again. <br>

    Plus I want to know something about you, there are always images on the web to look at, what makes it interesting is the story behind them. Gotta admit I only gave it a quick look because the flash was slow loading after a few images.</p>

  7. For me, not worth it - My time, and the cost of getting to locations to get images makes

    loosing them to issues just too risky. The horseman backs are pretty expensive, but given the

    investment you probably have in lenses, a body and film etc. There are pretty big cost

    savings shooting 6x12 roll vs sheets.

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