philip_glass

<p>I'm not really familiar with Canon products. This is a screwmount lens 125mm/3.5 EX of unusual proportions with huge front glass and quite a small screwmount end. I surmise that this was not made for their rangefinder line. Anyone have a clue what it is for and its optical qualities and value? Thanks.</p>

I suggest fuji neopan 1600 b&w. I once shot a wedding in a dark church with it. It is a grainy, but dramatic and contrasty film.. much more pleasing, in my opinion, than either 3200 speed films. Of course you should test the films and developers prior to the event.

I think you'll need to add some benzotriazole to the developer to supress fog. Snip off pieces of the film to test rather than testing the whole roll. Another way to do it is to use an all-purpose one speed developer like Diafine. I would start with something like 10 minutes in full strength D76 with benzo.

Thanks Jim, I'll let you know of the results.

Sometimes black spots on film are from material building up in fixer. You might try straining the fixer before each use.

Has anyone tried split development (traditionally using D23 or D76 developer

followed by a bath in Kodalk) with Rodinal and/or XTOL? If so, what kind of

effects did you see?

Anyone have any luck getting a Wollensak Autex shutter repaired? Thanks.

Probably the flow of air from ventilation as well as chemical fumes exacerbate your condition. I suggest the individual vials of eye-wetting solution that you can buy from pharmacies or discount stores. Do not buy the multiuse bottles, which contain harmful additives. Some of the individual vials contain a mild lubricant that may be helpful. Make sure that inadequate ventilation is not the cause first.

Saunders used to make one! I would call omega-satter which now owns Saunders' designs and see if they still have one. If not, I suggest you use a vacuum easel, or make your own.

Seal sold off their drymount press business to Hunt Corporation. Hunt sells them through their Bienfang subsidiary including the 500 and 210 models (www.forframersonly.com). Parts are also available through On-Site Maintenance Co. (Http://www.onsitellc.com). I think you should be able to get the part you need through either one.

Anyone know anything about the Scientific Lens Co. Anastigmat? I

can't find any information on it. The Vade Mecum has no information

about it.

I use some Agfa paper that is as much as 30 years old, there is somewhat of a contrast reduction, but the paper is not fogged. You do need to use benzotriazole however. Good luck.

I try to be funnier looking than my camera. However, the only people who give me trouble are the serious alcoholics who come rolling out of the bushes and darkened taverns. They tend to want long, long conversations and to tell you what great photographers they were and how they wish they had never sold their Ricohflex.

I had the same miserable conditions a couple of years ago. Fortunately, the couple were illuminated in a spot. I couldn't get close enough to use a wide lens so I used a 200/f2.8 lens wide open at 1/60th. I shot Fujipan 1600 at 1600 and used a monopod to steady the lens. I got a few good shots though they didn't look good enlarged beyond 8x10. As I remember I developed the film in DDX, though I would now probably use XTOL. In my opinion, for 35mm, Fujipan 1600 is better than both Ilford and Kodak's 3200 speed films because it offers snappy contrast and slightly more pleasant grain. I think the stuff would look awful if pushed to more than 1600. You might also investigate "hypered film" which you can buy from Edmund Scientific.

Clayton's ultra cold tone developer is really excellent stuff. Agfa Neutol WA (warm tone) is very good too. Make sure you use a hardening fixer or hardening additive when you process liquid light emulsion.

Kind of a basic question. I just started bulk rolling and am having a

little trouble with the tape releasing at the end of the roll. Any

suggestions on a good tape to use to secure the start of the roll to

the cassette reel?

Buy Agfa from B&H or Calumet at 2.09-2.19 per roll. It is superb film and easy to work with.

Agfa developing times are wildly overstated. I recommend Rodinal 1:100 for 10 minutes printed at grade 2.5. If you are unhappy with this density try a 25% increase or decrease. If you exposing and developing correctly your print should be where you want it to be at a normal grade between 2-3.

Any suggestions on pushing Agfa 100 to ISO 250-320? The massive

development chart listed XTOL 1:1. Any recommendations on this? Thanks.

Photo warehouse has cheap film - www.photo-warehouse.com.

I mixed up a gallon about a month ago and put it in a clear plastic

bottle. I use in one shot and keep it sealed between use. When I

checked today it had white "floaters" in it. It is obviously some kind

of contamination that looks organic. But what could live in full

strength D76? Any ideas? Thanks.

According to Toyo-view, the camera can only handle a 400mm of telephoto design. Toyo-view sells an extension back that adds 4 inches of extension. At $527 dollars you'll have to decide whether that is a worthwhile additional investment for you. I believe it is relatively easy to use, though bulky.

Thanks Donald. Terrific work by the way.

A major photo reseller is now offering Fomapan. Anyone using it in

sheet form? I am looking for a replacement for Agfa 100. Is this it?

The Mamiya 7II is a beautiful machine, but like a Ferrari, it is not very robust, nor suited for rough roads. You can't just throw it in a bag, like a 35mm SLR, you must treat it gingerly and it will produce stunning results. Because of the probability of repair, I would stay away from the 6, as parts are no longer made.