manojit_pusty1

<p>Can I find if my developer is ok, using the that part of the film that extends out of the roll ?</p>

<p>After I mixed the chemicals, some half and hours later I saw white flakes floating in the bottle. I used a teflon or something like that bottle.</p>

<p>THERE ARE NO BORDERS.<br>

THE NUMBERS AND LETTERS ARE GONE, TOTAL BLANK. BUT THE FILM IS NOT COMPLETELY TRANSPARENT.</p>

<p>I used the following formula to make D76<br>

Water 125F/52C 750ml<br>

Metol 2g<br>

Sodium Sulfite (anhydrous) 100g<br>

Hydroquinone 5g<br>

Borax (granular) 2g<br>

Cold water to make 1000ml<br>

Freshly prepared</p>

<p>Fixer: Sodium Hyposulphate Pentahydrate (20 g in 300 ml water)</p>

<p>Dev: stock solution 7 minutes 24 C <br>

Ilford HP5 Plus</p>

<p><strong>The final result : THE FILM WAS ALMOST TRANSPARENT WITH VERY VERY FAINT IMAGES (CLOSE TO NONE) IN SOME NEGATIVES.</strong></p>

<p><strong>WHY DID THIS HAPPEN????</strong></p>

<p> </p>

 

<p>JMD Von Weiberg that was very informative</p>

Thanks everyone fr ur responses.

<p>How many times can be Kodak D 76 (1+1 be reused)?<br>

I have developed three rolls(one pushed for 19 mins) and stored (1+1 D 76) in bottle with no air pocket. </p>

<p>How to get more shadow detail with Kodak D76 develooper and Ilford HP5+ ??</p>

<p>I loaded a film in my re loadable cassette, then when I loaded it in my camera the film was lying unevenly. A little loose which was unlike that of what it looks after loading regular films.<br>

Will it affect the image formation? The problem is in millimeter dimensions.</p>

<p>Thanks for ur responses.<br>

Previously I took a handful of hypo crystals (no weight measurement) and dissolved them in water. Then used to shake an undeveloped piece of BW film and measured the time for it to become transparent.<br>

Then I fixed my film with twice the recorded time. I never got good contrast(because my camera leaked light). Now I have got my camera repaired.<br>

Is the above process ok??</p>

<p>Please let me know how to get low contrast , with more tones output with Ilford HP5+ and D- 76</p>

<p>I have about 600 grams Hypo crystals stored in my closet. It is about 2 years old. It is stored in a polythene bag, not airtight.<br>

Please tell me if it is alright to use it as fixer.<br>

Also let me know how to prepare fixer solution for fixing Fuji Neopan 100SS and Ilford HP5plus</p>

thanks Subbarayan Prasanna...........

<p>@Subbarayan Prassanna ...........Rick's images exhaust me completely.............because I never got such quality out of it...........Even colour films developed in lab showed same dull results...........</p>

<p>probably much narrower than that............the image of the diaphragm indicates to me f11 maybe...............</p>

this one is again shot at probably f4 or 5.6 I do not remember<div></div>

<p>thanks everyone fr ur responses............................This particular lens is about 16 years old.........and

lied for almost 14 years of its lifespan in his wardrobe..........on holding the lens against light fitted to the

camera tiny purple dots and patches are seen...............Some body told me that it is the internal coating

that has degraded but it is ok with getting snaps............... next I procured professional help to clean the

lens........I was told the lens had fungus inside and was cleaned.................but the patches are still

there........................</p><p>I am uploading another image shot on the same film.....................being

shot before dusk.............this is totally unedited................the scan is done at the local

lab......................shot this image at f2.........1/60s..........................why is the image murky???? I have a

strong feeling that this is not overexposed........................ </p><p><br></p><div></div>

<p>i an uploading an image shot on my Zenit 122 camera lens: helios 58mm f/2<br>

shot on expired Orwo 125 ASA......developed by Sterling Universal developerfor 10 minutes at 18 degree celcius..........fixed with sodium hypo sulphite with diluted white vinegar as stop bath..............sharpened this image to 100 percent in photoshop...........shot this at anaperture: f/4 shutterspeed:1/125 s............looking forward for ur suggestion for any error in the developing process............why don't I get the sharpness as Nikkor 50mm??</p>

<p>thanks Tim......Ray I wud check that out........Duane I did not use any of the developers mentioned in the kodak website.....that is because in India these r no longer available......instead a local product Sterling Universal Developer is there.......which I do not know what genre of developers it belong to and heard from an Indian online community that it is similar to D 76 in terms of development time........but when I developed this particular film I was unaware of this fact and went on with a rough average.........afterall it was my first Tri-x......couldn't wait to check details :) </p>

<p>thanks again fr the responses.....Tim.....from this discussion I have understood that<br>

I shud <br>

1. try to scan with max detail<br>

2. Use levels in PShop<br>

3. Use auto color<br>

Please let me know in simple terms how to get more natural and correct black and white image.......excluding in the in camera adjustments....</p>

<p>Thanks again to all for clarifying the doubts :)</p>

<p>thanks fr the responses so far................here i wud like to know that is it natural to edit scanned negatives in photoshop or only those require which have problems in processing(keeping under exposed aside)</p>

<p>isn't there a faint pinking or magenta cast??</p>

<p>The developer stock solution was prepared 4 months back and currently occupying half the bottle..........heard oxygen in air degrades the developer..........can that be the case then........also I'm uploading a properly exposed image.........</p><div></div>

<p>the lab guy told me that he has given me a big size image and to get it processed in photoshop by my own.............I sharpened it in this way<br>

cntrl+j<br>

cntrl+shift<br>

'layer' palatte is changed to 'soft light'<br>

cntrl+j<br>

filter>sharpen>unsharp mask (proper values are taken)</p>

<p>these steps are done sequentially in photoshop CS4 to sharpen.........got these steps in the net</p>