mike_vine

<p>Hi - I would be grateful if somebody could point me towards a Photoshop video tutorial that could get me started on how to deal with shots that have bright windows in otherwise dimly lit rooms... Appreciate this is a real novice question but I just can't seem to locate anything that really gets me started.... Any guidance would be very gratefully received. Thanks, Mike</p>

<p>Hi again - really appreciate all your feed-back and would be very grateful for any comments on 300 AF as opposed to 300 AF-S as an option. Many Thanks, Mike</p>

Hi - thank you all very much for your guidance. The 300mm AF-S with TC seems to be the way to go - though funding will be the

issue.... By any chance is the earlier AF version an option worth considering - that would put it in budget right away and my local camera

shop has one in stock....

Thanks again,

Mike

Hi - I am looking for more reach than my current set-up provides and seem to have two options. My current set-up is a D7000 with a 70-

300VR for reach.... I would like more reach for bird photography In particular.

 

Options seems to be either:

 

1. A longer lens on the D7000 - looking at the Sigma 150-500 (with OS) based on Thomas Hogan's review.... This option would give all

the benefits of the D7000 (AF etc) but the lens is very large and costs £650 at least.

 

2 A D3200 with 24MP to give more MP for closer cropping - can use existing 70-300 lens and only costs £300 (plus get an additional

compact body for back-up and general use) but have reduced functionality compared to the D7000 plus needing to learn a new camera.

 

Options based on simple logic that need about 6MP for a decent A4 print, i.e. a one third crop on D7000 and one quarter crop on a

D3200....

 

All advice gratefully received.

Thanks

Mike

<p>Thanks for advice.<br>

Brooks - I am about to press the button on a V600 - are you happy with yours.... Target for me is 120 film ...<br>

Thanks, Mike</p>

 

<p>Hi - this thread stimulates a question from another newbie to B&W film (me) whose been tempted back in by the prospect of large negatives and a good scanner. So... if I'm looking to develop specifically for the purposes of scanning should I aim to slightly under-developed my film. If so by how much...<br>

Thanks, Mike</p>

<p>Hi all - understanding that £100 was an aproximation - it was based on the list for the D600 and the current lowest UK price for a D800 at £2099 (see http://www.camerapricebuster.co.uk/prod2567.html).<br>

Of course the price of the D600 will also drop over time but to create a real differential (say £500) it would need to drop to £1,600, i.e. by 20%, I suspect it is not likely to do that for some time... (and that's ignoring any further drop in the price of a D800).</p>

 

Hi - it's a simple question - with a D800 only costing £100 more than a D600 at current street prices, is there any reason to buy a D600

rather than a D800.

<p>Thanks very much all - very helpful.... But... I have just come across a Bronica RF 645 at a very good price and couldn't resist it (even with the vertical orientation!).... Yes it was lot more than £250 but so much more portable for country walks.... Many thanks though and if I get hooked then a ETRSi or a SQAi will definitely be the next stop....</p>

Hi - appreciate this is a variation on the the 'what MF camera should I buy' question but I am looking to acquire a Bronica ETRSi as a first

venture into MF - it seems to be the best value for money system available for a budget of £250 or so... But being new to this MF world I

would appreciate some advice on the 'components' I should be looking for in a system.... What's the equivalent general purpose lens for instance. Photographic interests are wide ranging but mostly landscapes and people... I would be looking for a SLR type viewfinder

and on board metering... Hope this all makes sense. Don't be afraid to tell me if it doesn't or if there is a better option out there - very

much in learning mode... Many thanks.

<p>Thanks all.<br>

<br />JDM - intrigued that you think there has been a list published somewhere - spent a couple hours and found nothing. That seems to have been Paul's experience as well.</p>

<p>I guess it's not a science anyway as Paul's 227XXXX was shipped in 2004 and Lilly's 2309XXX was shipped in 2003....</p>

<p>Mine is a 2306XXX so I guess it's about 8 or 9 years old.... Must have been in it's box for most of that time to be in such good nick.<br>

<br />Thanks again!</p>

<p>I have just bought a Nikon F100 - a bit of a whim as I have not touched film for years but I couldn't resist it when I picked it up and it's absolutely pristine... My question - is there a website somewhere where I can check the age through the serial number? I have googled every conceivable combination of words that I can think of that might find a site for me but I have drawn a blank.... Any guidance on where to look would be much appreciated. Thanks.</p>

<p>Thanks all - very helpful. I had bought a couple of rolls of FP4 to start with so sounds like I am on the right track... Already have a good set of filters and a scanner so looks like I'm all set - thanks very much.</p>

Hi - on rather a whim I bought a Nikon F100 yesterday. Couldn't resist the look of the thing, the fact it is like new, it works well with some

of my Nikon lenses and cost a net £75 after a trade-in of an older camera I hadn't use for years! But I have not touched film for years and

am now wondering what would be a good film to use in it.... Interested in landscapes and cloudscapes - hopefully both together - and also

portraits.... Not intending to process myself ! Any guidance would be appreciated.... Hadn't really appreciated how precarious the film

industry is now so ideally need a film that will be around for a while.... Thanks!

It seems to me that Thomas Hogan should be taken seriously as a commentator of the Nikon product line - just look at

the breadth of material and the number of years he has worked at this. He is merely voicing his opinion that for the

present he cannot recommend this camera because of his understanding of the prevalence of the issue and more

importantly his perception of Nikon's response to the problem. For those of you who wish to ignore that opinion then of

course that is your choice but to disparage a commentator with Thom's track record as a serious and balanced

commentator just because you don't agree with his opinion rather demeans this forum. For me he has paid his dues to be

taken seriously.

<p>Thanks all - your input is much appreciated ! Looks like Dad is going to have to dig deeper in his pocket than originally intended !</p>

<p>Many thanks for all the contributions - all much appreciated. Great input (as always) ! Understanding the guidance about the 18-55 as an option I think I will suggest a 50 mm as he seems focusssed on portraits - even seems to understand bokeh. He has already decided his first project is a series on the the stall holders in his local London street market. Also the 1.8 will help keep the ISO level down. If he get's hooked then he will have to buy his own 18-55 and 55-200 combo at later date, then a new body then a 16-85, then a new body, then a 70-200 etc. etc......<br /> Thanks again !</p>

<p>Hi Shun - thanks for such a prompt response - given your comments I clearly need to have quick look at a D50. Regarding the lens - given his focus on photographing people I am suggesting the 50 F1.8 because of its quality as a low cost portrait lens - need to check out with him again before buying. Thanks again.</p>

<p>Hi - my son is showing an interest in photography of late - specifically people & portraits. Given his limited budget (about £250) I am suggesting a Nikon D50 with a 50mm F1.8 AFD rather than a higher spec compact on the same budget. I never had/used a D50 so would appreciate any thoughts/gotcha's on this combination that anybody can spot.... P.S. to date he has been used to very basic 'point and shoot'. Thanks !</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Scott/Peter/Marc - many thanks for your input !<br>

Your feed-back seems to confirm my emerging understanding from research that:<br>

1. If I want to efficiently manage a portfolio and get the best out of an image (especially Raw) then LR3 is the way to go. <br>

2. If I want to change an image "creatively" then PSE8 (or CS5) is an necessary second application....<br>

I have downloaded a 30 day trial of LR3 and will start to investigate the boundaries between thew two aspects of post processing.<br>

Thanks again !<br>

Mike</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I currently use Photoshop Elements but am interested in moving to the next level in terms of developing a work-flow process. Looking for suggestions that would provide a good level of capability without, ideally, breaking the bank, i.e. LightRoom and CS5...<br>

My experience with software is that everyday use tends to focus on 20% of the capability for 80% of the time (may even be 10% of capability 90% of the time).<br>

Have seen a few demos of Bibble 5 and looks pretty good but am I missing anything in terms of good value for money... Are there any up-and-coming or hidden gems out there to consider...<br>

Of course I can down-load demo versions and do a detailed analysis but not necessarily too sure what constitutes the 10-20% that I will really need as I push forward - or even if the rule applies in the this case...<br>

As footnote - trying to take my interest forward fairly seriously with a Nikon D90, Tamron 17-50, Nikon 70-300 VR and Nikon 35mm and 50mm 1.8's....<br>

Any guidance much appreciated...<br>

Thanks,<br>

Mike</p>

<p>I bought my D90 a few months ago wit the 18-105 - for the money its a very decent general purpose 'take anywhere' lens . I have added the 70-300, the 35/1.8 and the 50/1.8 - now feel I am pretty much all set. Suggested order of purchase would be the 18-105 followed by the 50/1.8 (portratit) followed by the 35/1.8 (general purpose low light) followed by the 70-300 (if you need it). Good luck!</p>

<p>Thanks all - really appreciate all the thoughtful input ! Good to hear it was a useful thread for others as well.</p>

<p>Peter (and others) - the 85 mm with crop factor on a D90 is effectively almost 130 mm. I understood this to be too long for a good portrait lens. Any thoughts....</p>

<p>Thanks for all the positive contributions - much appreciated. I guess the answer is yes.<br>

Any alternatives anybody - without breaking the bank !!</p>