sem_svizec

<p>Here's one guy for instance... click "Information" on the right for his technique<br> http://blog.mdsign.nl/<br> It is certainly difficult to get critters pose for you at roughly the same spot just a couple of inches away from the camera, but it is not impossible. Even those that move way too fast for proper aiming may be captured with moderate spray-and-prey if one can anticipate where exactly they are going to pass by. <br> For aiming one can use a powerful LED flashlight (hardly visible in the shots) attached to the camera or flash bracket, or one can learn to operate the aperture lever with a finger. "Handheld" also involves a certain support technique here. </p>

<blockquote> <p>So I'll repeat - <em>Reversing rings are meant to be used in conjunction with a bellows.</em></p> </blockquote> <p>Certainly, when working at home or such. Continuous adjustment of magnification is a big plus. But as a "travel" option, just the BR-2A with a set of extension tubes and a WA lens is an option that works. Focus by moving the camera only (lens is mostly best set to close focus, in case it has CRC or such; ideally, the reversed lens should be focussed to the sensor plane, and the object should be at the "flange distance" position). There is also an intermediate option of continuously adjustable extension tubes, which also means an intermediate extension range, but it is relatively rare. <br> Using a reversed lens without extension is clearly not by the book, but I've seen lots of great handheld bug shots made like this. Though I don't do this on regular basis, I did check that it works. It takes a bit of practice to master and it is not foolproof, but it is not so difficult either. M mode only, because Nikon meters with chipped lenses only, but it should be possible to get some sort of metering by chipping the BR-2A (mind: the default TTL-BL flash mode will not work well because it requires AF distance from the lens; use spot metering or set flash power manually). No auto aperture for easier aiming unfortunately, because aperture coupling is mechanical (on some other systems it is possible to hack a wired connection between the camera and the reversed lens).</p> <blockquote> <p>Bulky as it may be, a bellows unit is really the only sensible option for magnifications of 4x and above.</p> </blockquote> <p>There are also microscope objectives.</p>

<p><em>Yes I'm looking to get real close to alive bugs. </em><br> I think your best bet for chasing alive bugs is a reversed wide-angle prime on the BR-2A reversal adapter. The AI-s 20/3.5 is recommended, though many others will do (need not be "fast", you will stop down for depth; aperture ring highly recommended). Useful magnification on its own, and you can get more with a set of extension tubes (you need bulky bellows with longer lenses). Wide-angle produces lower relative background blur, therefore more impression of depth, despite same thin DoF. <br> For moving bugs, use diffused flash. The viewfinder may be very dim, you may try operating the aperture lever in the exposed lens mount with your finger, or use a LED flashlight.<br> If you don't have a suitable lens yet, you may practice with a reversed kit lens 18-xxx, @18mm and close focus; quality not best, may improve when using extension tubes (at higher magnification). </p>

<p>>> V3 with FT-1 still central AF point only?<br> > Sem, that's a very good question. There's no reason why it should be.....but equally no reason why it should have been on the V1 too!<br> AF-S lenses are not totally "native" on N1 with FT-1. Mind the FT-1 has got a firmware. But I don't recall any specific explanation for this.</p>

<p>V3 with FT-1 still central AF point only? </p>