joseph_brown7

<p>Nikon At 2.8</p><div></div>

<p>John</p>

<p>I posted some samples for you as well as long.</p>

<p>Racecar - Sigma at F2.8 @ around 135mm. D300 @ iso2000<br>

Laughing Girl - Nikkor at f2.8 @ 135mm. D200 @ iso800</p>

<p>Joe</p><div></div>

<p>Doug,</p>

<p>I second what the other guys suggest but would like to add a few things...I would put your flashes to use. Try bouncing them into the ceiling instead of using the umbrellas b/c you will be in smaller rooms. You could also, assuming you have a sb600/800/900 model flash zoom them in and use them as accent lighting. Remember to not move your tripod after you start bracketing EV for you final image that way you can stack exposures in post. I typically will do a mix of strobe/hdr for my interior shots.</p>

<p>Joe</p><div></div>

<p>Long,</p>

<p>Can't comment on the tele converter as I dont use em. I believe the 2x will make it a f5.6 and slow down af speed, How much I cant be sure of. Maybe I have a excellent copy but mine is very good at 2.8 and nasty sharp at f4. I have heard that sigma has quality control issues so I would suggest trying out the lens prior to buying. I should mention that I used to own a 70-200VR and sold it for this lens on reccomendation of a friend. The studio I work for has the 70-200VR as well so I have shot a lot with both lens. I have found the Sigma to be about as good optically as the Nikon...where it lacks is the weather sealing and robust build quality...While the sigma is built nicely it is not as solid as the Nikkor lens. Try one...You will love it.</p>

<p>Long,</p>

<p>If you have the cash, Go for it. You will see a notable difference in IQ with the 70-200 over the 18-200. If you shot only outdoor stuff I would say hold off but for low light concerts it will be great. I would guess that you do some school sport shooting as well which the 70-200 will excell at. I currently own this lens and am extremly happy with the quality. AF speed is on par with the Nikkor and the sigma will actually focus closer than the Nikkor. Best of luck to you</p>

<p>Joe</p>

<p>I have one for my sb800. It worked fine for about a month or so (used it on 3 jobs) then gave out on me. The brand was yongnuo so it may be a bit different but it is a chinese clone of the Nikon SD8A none the less.</p>

<p>Hi jessica,<br>

I would be happy to show you the ropes. I am based in Hamilton NJ I shoot commercially M-F then operate my wedding business on the weekends. I have a engagement session end of this month with the wedding to follow in March. I would be happy to have you assist me in these shoots. If you are interested contact me through my site. Thanks and best of luck!</p>

<p>Joe</p>

<p>I think I may just trade the 18-35 up to a 17-35 2.8. I have never really needed to go any wider than 17-18mm on FX, and as John had said you really dont need anything faster than 2.8 for wedding work(or anything else really). Thanks again to all!<br>

Joe</p>

<p>Hello all, I have been a long time viewer of this forum and untill now have found a answer to every question that has come up. I am looking for suggestions on a Nikon wide angle prime as my fastest wide angle lens I have is my 28-70 2.8, Which on a d300 is closer to a normal lens than W/A. I do own a 18-35 ED lens which is great for receptions with flash but does not give me the fast aperture I want for ambient shooting. I usually shoot weddings with a d300 and a rented or borrowed d700 but I plan on purchasing a 700 of my own soon. That being said I would like to have the W/A prime live mostly on the 700 so a DX lens would not work for me. I would also not be apposed to using a third party like Sigma or Tokina. If it helps here is my current array of glass: Nikkor 18-35 ED, 28-70 2.8, 50 1.4, 70-200 2.8,105 2.8 micro. Thanks in advance!</p>

<p>Joe</p>

<p>I have been having a problem with one of my 800's when connected to my d700/300. With this particular unit attached to the camera it losses all TTL function and does not register any change when my f stop or focal length change. Also when I attach the flash to the hot shoe it loses several sub menus in the menu including the master feature in CLS. I have tryed resetting the flash as well as trying on 3 different cameras. I dont think it has to do with the camera settings either b/c my other SB800 works fine on all my camera. I have also used contact cleaner on the shoe of the camera and the foot of the flash with no luck. Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated.</p>