j.art.photo.
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Posts posted by j.art.photo.
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<p>Why do I suddenly feel the urge to finger paint over my perfectly white walls?</p>
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<p>Hi Ken. if you have the latest firmware you can add the copyright information to the EXIF file of the picture, like how to contact you and your requirements to allow the picture usage but that does not mean people cant stripp that info from your pic and actually use it. your best option is to either watermark or just post low resolution images.</p>
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<p>The original effect has had some succes but as you say is a matter of taste, you can visit Dave Hill's website and visit the behind the scenes page to see what some of the light set up is.</p>
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<p><strong><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=4817161">Riley S</a> , Nov 02, 2009; 12:17 a.m.</strong><br>
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<strong>Does anyone understand why this 'look' has become so popular lately? It just doesn't look good. Sorry, Photo Expert Guy, it's not that it's a bad photo. I would say it's a completely inoffensive photo. But the processing! Why?</strong></p>
<p>Hi Riley S,<br /> Photographers like: Andrzej Dragan, Dave hill and Jill Greenberg have used a technique very similar , sometimes with very strong images and that mysterious dark look. ever since people have tried to replicate on the digital dark room what is meant to start with very careful lighting. some attempts are better than others but to really nail the shot you need to master the light first.<br /> you can google the names and will see what the original look really LOOKS like!</p>
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<p>yes Matt ,It would absolutely defy the purpose of the FX sensor to shoot with the DX lens on the D700 and I'm also sure you understand that perfectly, just wanted to clarify the point that Nikon cameras are capables of accepting any Nikon mount lenses although with some draw backs in this case, so readers dont get the wrong idea. ex:</p>
<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=4042053">Sarah Brown</a> , Oct 31, 2009; 08:34 p.m.</p>
<p>I thought all Nikon lens were interchangeable. That makes a big difference!</p>
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<p>I should add that to adjust the area of the sensor it cropps alot of pixels so you end up with considerably smaller files.</p>
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<p>@ Matt Laur although you have a point the answer is missleading and saying that a DX lens wont work on the FX body is plain wrong. you CAN mount a DX Nikon mount lens on a Nikon FX body and it WILL perfectly WORK and vice versa. What the D700 will do is switch to DX mode to adjust the size of the area to use on the sensor to fit the smaller image projection of the DX lens. so basically using a DX lens on a FX body is not using the full potential of the bigger sensor since you will get an APS-C size image.<br /> To the OP the D700 has a little better low light performance than the D300 if that is of importance to you it can make a difference.<br>
You can also set the camera to always shoot on DX mode or FX mode even with DX lenses mounted ( can get severe vignetting)</p>
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<p>Grrrrr eat I want one so I can shoot at ISO 102.400 on a pitch black night and finally be able to photograph one of those little elves that live in my closet. Iso 6400 is not making it, they way too fast.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the replys , is good to hear how diferent styles are very valid and each important to master. thats why I like the forums .</p>
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<p>Nic if you shoot up to Iso 2500 why dont you like to set a constant aperture and speed and let the Iso on auto? just asking, Im new to sports photography but im shure you have a reason.</p>
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<p>absolutely agree Steve have found some shots with good critical focus but a bit of blur on feet or hands will try a higher shutter speed.<br>
do you ever use AUTO ISO?</p>
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<p>Lately I have been shooting alot of sports with my d300, a mb-d10 battery gripp and 70-200mm lens , have shot polo , soccer, basketball, baseball, hockey and ice skating, and since im relatively new to sports wanted to see what shooting style was more suited for me and the system.<br>
For starters the crop factor of the camera I consider to be a plus for sports. then when i got to figure out the settings on the camera I have opted for release + focus priority on AF-C mode, 51 points 3D tracking, "with lock on" on normal and usually pick a center sensor then lock and recompose , so far those settings have worked and barely have to change them, then started playing with aperture priority and shutter priority compromising on a relatively hi ISO of 800. but due to changes in contrast and light although I find most of the shots to be perfectly focused the inconsistencies on either freezing action or DOF got me wondering on a compromise of shutter and aperture set to manual usually set the aperture to F4 and shutter to 250 or 320 and let the ISO to resolve itself setting to a max of 1600.<br>
I am really sorprised and happy with the results and since I dont use on cam NR the shots come really sharp and balanced, any need to noise reducion is done in PP with noise ninja but almost never need to do so.<br>
I would like to know if more people use this settings or similar and why.</p>
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<p>@ Peter. I also believe RM would be a better option, any non-M stock agencies you can suggest?<br>
@ Martin. Absolutely! those images in my hard drive are doing nothing for me now and I consider there are quite a few that have potential, that is the reason of my post, asking those of you who have more experience than me on this field and have the time to reply what would be a good option.<br>
and so far what I see is Micro would not be the best in my case.<br>
BTW thanks to all for replying, I hope more come and share their experience at the time of selling their work.</p>
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<p>Yes John I totally get the point. thanks alot for the reply.</p>
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<p>Hi.<br>
I am relatively new to PN but have been in the photography bussines for a while now, yet there are some questions that I'm sure some of you are willing to answer. Most of the work I've done has been by contract and that is actually how I make most of my living , shooting events , wedings, children photography , pets, and even products. My hardrives are fuLLL of images not only from work but also the ones that are taken on my free time, some have been posted here (not the by contract ones) I wish I had more time to organize and make a nice portfolio on PN but thats on the works, so my question is!, does It make sense to sell the bulk of the images as Micro stock and Keep the better ones for personal use where I can get more profit out of them? never done the stock thing but would like to use that resource to work with so many pics seating doing nothing,,<br>
Does it make sense? have any sugestions? what stock agency could be a good choice?<br>
In advance thanks for taking the time to read my post and replying to it.<br>
Regards. J.A.R.T.</p>
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<p>PATRICK.! THANKS FOR THE TUTORIAL! I REALLY ENJOY WHEN PEOPLE COME AND GIVE US SOMETHING HELPFUL.<br /> AS FOR THE CAPS. THEY ARE JUST CAPS. I CANT HEAR THEM. CAN YOU?</p>
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<p>I just got reminded my Mother has O.C.D. best of luck.</p>
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<p>@<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=772038">Steve Hopkins. </a><br>
you are totally right. I explained that earlier on this post, the D300s has very low default processing, its intended for a market that most likely know how to tweak the equipment for desired results out of the camera or pp, the users manual is over 400 pages and is really worth reading it.<br>
I also noticed the WB is off a bit according to the skin tones , sort of a blue cast very subtle but typical of Nikon defaults processing, the OP talks about sharpness but I see OOF images not fault on detail rendering , considering the lens speed for that image it would have been advisable to use a tripod.<br>
And as Keith Aldrich said I hope this is not a troll. dont like wasting time.</p>
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<p>Hi david.<br>
D300s is actually one of the new releases from Nikon that have a very low default sharpness processing, and its done in part because pros have sugested that pp sharpening is superior to in camera algorithms, so by default it does come very low. if you need images right out from camera then you can bump some sharpening on the profiles.. I always process my raws and ad some sharpness afterwards not only for nikons dslr's.<br>
as for the noise.. I think you are trying too hard to find some. a steady hand would also help for your OOF images.<br>
Regards. J.A.R.T.</p>
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<p>READY TO JUMP ME!<br>
I met this fella while talking a stroll around South Beach (MIA) ,he was taking the sun (actually he was taking the shade) next to an empty pool of an old abandoned hotel.<br>
I got inside the empty swimming pool to take this capture and he very cordially posed for me.<br>
His name is Jack, or at least that is how the Old night guard of the hotel calls him , Jack is a regular he said or perhaps a loyal customer.<br>
Have a GREAT wednsday guys. i will try to visit jack today for a photoshoot and cookies, (tuna for him)</p><div></div>
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<p>@ mark felber. yes his buddy was ussing a camera strapp when the camera fell into the ocean,unfortunately the part of the neck where the strapp was resting at the time of the incident also fell into the ocean.<br>
And we all know its easier to reattach a neck than to make that camera come back to life.</p>
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<p>@ Pietro! I cant see your image, I love SB street photography . you can just ppl watch all day long.</p>
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Should I switch from Canon to Nikon for weddings?
in Wedding & Event
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