simon_t1

<p>From your opinions and examples, it seems a safe bet.<br>

Thanks everyone.<br>

Simon.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I'm thinking of purchasing a Nikon nikon TC-20E III.<br>

Has anyone had expirience with a D800, 70-200 VRII and TC-20E III. If possible some examples please.<br>

Thanks in advance,<br>

Simon.</p>

<p>Thanks Andrew.</p>

<p>One info I am looking for and could not find. Does anyone know or found anywhere how many shots does it take in Raw before the buffer fills up, please.</p>

<p>Thanks very much for your helpfull answers, the reason for my question was as Matt guessed, instead of using radio triggers.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

This may be an unusual question. But can anyone please share any experiences or knowledge if the Nikon SB900 can be triggered by the Canon 580 EXII. <br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>I it worth exchanging my 17-40mm f4 with a 16-35mmL in terms of image quality or it would be best to stick with the 17-40mm for my 5dII. <br>

Thanks in advance.<br /> Simon.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Before I get into the actual discussion, can I say how nice it is to have objective users here? At some other forums that I frequent, you would never find something like people on a Nikon board defending Canon or giving them credit for their products.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Well said Ariel, at some point I was in doubt in which board I was in.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>You can downsample the images from a high-resolution sensor in post but it will never get as low noise as it would have if the sensor had been designed for that size in the first place ...</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Interesting point Ilkka</p>

<p>some music to ones ears<br>

<a href="

 

<p><a href="

 

<p>Taken during a local Airshow</p><div></div>

<p>A bit late, but as they say better late than never.</p>

<p>I use a 24-70mm f2.8 lens with my 5dII. The reason I had decided for the 24-70mm over the 24-105mm is f/2.8. I thought and still think that having wider f stop would help focusing in low light. Am I wrong or correct?<br>

Thanks for your help and advice.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Is every shot slow, or just after a certain number, as the buffer fills?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yes after a number of seconds, its ok for me, but just thought if the card mentioned would make any difference before purchasing it, otherwise a normal SDHC will do.</p>

<p>Thanks for your reply, I use a normal 16G Sandisk SDHC. and recently seen the Lexar which states that its a 133x speed and was thinking of purchasing one if it meets my expectations (the above question). By the way for continious shooting JPG only. The rest RAW.</p>

<p>Would the Lexar Professional SDHC 133x card overcome or improve the slow down effect of continious shooting on for example the D7000.<br /> Thanks,<br /> Simon</p>

<p>There could also be production cost factors. Take an example in a production line (forget which brand) where if both Full frame sensor and crop sensor wafer are the same diameter size, a wafer containing FF sensors would contain less sensors than a crop sensor wafer of the same size and therefore the total amount of units produced per wafer is higher on crop, which makes it cheaper to produce crop than FF. If there are number of rejects in a wafer, the cost per unit could go up, as less units per wafer are produced.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>You are putting the most emphasis on a camera. The camera is the least important thing</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Shun is right. DSLR's have improved a lot. Some improvements will show a difference compared to others, to mention a few.</p>

<ul>

<li>Resolution for detail when needed</li>

<li>Low light capabilities</li>

<li>AF accuracy</li>

</ul>

<p>Kent's argument would have made sense in film days when it all depended on lenses and the type of film used. With the exception of the AF point, which still depended on the camera.<br>

Today the results that depended on film, now depend on the camera itself. <br>

What about the D3s low light capability which is essential for weddings, that does not depend on the lens.</p>

 

<p>Maybe you could consider the 300mm f/4 fixed f/l adding a TC which does give excellent results, even great for closeups.</p>

<p>Just managed a used z pro holder. Thanks for everyone's help</p>

<p>Z-Pro holders seem to be out of stock.</p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

<p>You just need to re-assemble it slightly as it vignettes a small amount at 16mm if you leave it capable of holding 3 filters. The re-assembly is quite easy</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p><strong>Philip</strong><br />Do you mean reduce the number of slots.</p>

<p>Thanks to everyone's suggestions. They are very helpfull.<br>

<strong>Dan</strong><br>

Lee seems to have more than one holder, there is the foundation kit and an upgrade kit and more, this is what is confusing me, even the adapter rings as you have mentioned. This is why I do not know which is the ideal for my kit mentioned above.</p>

 

<p>Which filter holder is most suitable for Lee and Hitech 100mm square filters on a 17-40mm lens and 5DII. I looked at the Lee and hitech.<br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

 

<p>Thanks Harry. The problem was I had an older Raw plug-in version, 4.x which is found in help>plug-in>camera raw.<br />I needed the 5.6.0.1 or > versions for the newer DSLR 7D and 5DII models. So I replaced the 4.x with the 5.x. Strange its not done automatically online, you have to look for it. <br />Thanks again.</p>