peter brown - www.peterbro

<blockquote>Hi all,

<p>

I have just added a review of the Schneider APO-Tele-Xenar 300mm f4 HFT

PQ Lens

for Rollei owners or anyone interested.

<p>

<br />

This is the link: <a

href="http://www.peter-brown-photographer.com/equipment%20page/xenar

%20PQ%20300mm%20review.html">Schneider Tele-Xenar lens review</a>.

<p>

<blockquote>Hi all,

<p>

I have just added a review of the Carl Zeiss Distagon 60mm f3.5 HFT PQ Lens

for Rollei (or Hasselblad) owners or anyone interested.

<p>

<br />

This is the link: <a

href="http://www.peter-brown-photographer.com/equipment%20page/dista

gon%20PQ%2060mm%20review.html">Distagon 60mm Review</a>.

<p>

<a href="http://www.peter-brown-photographer</a>

</blockquote>

Hi Wim,

Thanks for your comments and correcting my tardy html link - I've been

looking at too much of it recently ;-)

Glad to welcome another Rollei convert.

Kind regards

Peter

Hi all,

I have just posted a review of the Rollei 6008i camera for anyone interested.

Here is the link:

http://www.peter-brown-photographer.com/equipment%20page/rollei%2060

08i%20camera%20review.html

You can also get to it by going to peter-brown-photographer.com and follow

the 'about' and 'equipment' links. (NB:website is not finished yet, so some

links don't work)

Kind regards

Peter Brown - Cairns Australia

peter-brown-photographer.com

I agree with Hunter. I have bought from Lawrence Poon at HK Supplies and

Anthony Lee at Amhlee (eBay stores) - both dealers were extremely helpful,

honest and reliable. The goods (in my case, Rollei gear and lenses) arrived in

record time, in mint condition and I bought them at excellent prices. Very

good value!

Shipping was exceptional, within four working days HK to Australia - I paid for

one lens on Tuesday am (HK is a couple of hours behind AEST) and it arrived

in my PO mailbox on Thursday am! This is quicker than a letter from Brisbane

to Cairns. Very good serice and I'd highly recommend these two dealers.

Kind regards

Peter Brown - Cairns Australia.

Hi Eric,

I second Ellis' recommendation for Fuji 64T II - I just used some on a

restoration project of a Chinese temple and the results for indoor (tungsten

with various colour temperatures) were excellent and even some of the mixed

daylight/tungsten light shots looked better with the 64T than with the Provia.

Give it a try, I think you'll like the results.

Kind regards

Peter Brown - Cairns / Australia

Thanks for your input guys.

Ellis, I have looked at the Balcar and the Profoto and I think the Balcar LFX

will do the job nicely. Thanks for the suggestions.

Kind regards

Peter Brown - Cairns/Australia

Hi fellow MF users,

I was wondering if anyone can recommend a good quality ring flash which

would be compatible with the Rollei 6008i? Does one exist? Any help greatly

appreciated.

Kind regards

Peter Brown - Cairns/Australia.

Hi Jason

The 6x6 format offers the designer the opportunity to crop to suit the layout

without losing to much information, either portrait or landscape (for example

6x4.5 which has a similar ratio to 6x7) and this is an advantage. This has

been a popular format for advertising, publishing, etc, and is still used.

The larger 6x7 image is slightly more impressive and offers slightly better

enlarging properties, although for most editiorial, book & magazine work

there would be no noticable difference.

It is probably best to get in touch with your picture editor, print buyer and ask

what they prefer or if you are selling to a number of agencies ask them all the

same question and then supply to the majority view.

A good image will sell well whatever the format but the stock business is very

competitive and if the same image was presented in various formats, the

larger image would be the one chosen.

Kind regards

Peter Brown - Cairns/Australia

Hi Neil,

I think the 135mm macro would suit your needs perfectly. I've covered 90%

of my professional MF photography needs over a number of years with just

the 45mm, 55mm and 135mm macro.

The 135 is a capable mid range lens (approx. equal to a 70mm in 35mm

format) and has the added advantage of having closeup/macro ability. As

Steve says, with the addition of tubes a good magification range is possible.

I have found that it performs well for distant (infinity) subjects stopped down

a couple of stops.

I think you would probably get more versatility with this lens rather than a

105mm.

Kind regards

Peter Brown

Hi Michael and welcome to the world of MF photography.

I've used the Manfrotto 3021 with 3-way head and QR plate for many years in

a variety of conditions with Contax 35mm, Rollei 6x6, Pentax 67, Mamiya 67

(similar in size and weight to the GS-1) and also with a lightweight Ebony

4x5. This tripod has performed well with all these cameras in most

circumstances. It is sturdy, not too heavy, secure and rigid and almost

indestructable.

I would suggest that you lock the extending center column securely. I did this

by drilling through the column and putting a 12mm bolt through the hole. This

stopped all movement of the column and greatly improved rigidity and

stability. I don't use the extension, so it doesn't worry me that it remains

locked like this but if I did wish to use the extension I could just undo the

wingnut, remove the bolt and I'd be back to the original design.

Some people don't like the lever locking for the legs on the Manfrotto but I

have found these locks to be easy to do up/undo and they have always

locked securely. The Gitzo type screw locks also work well but I prefer these.

Just what you get used to I think.

The Manfrotto legs also splay out at various angles which allows easy

working on uneven ground or for low level work. I have been very happy

with the Manfrotto over the years and it is a good compromise for

weight/size/rigidity/cost.

With good photographic technique this lighter weight tripod would be a good

choice for the GS-1 and you won't break the bank or your back!

Kind regards

Peter Brown

(You can view my editorial/documentry images at www.contax.ch)

Hi Paul,

I agree with Paul Owen (Hi Paul O - How's the Ebony going?) and would look

at the Lowepro. I've used the Lowepro Photo trekker for more years than I

care to remember and it is a sturdy, comfortable and roomy back pack. VERY

well constructed. The super trekker would give you the extra room for the

400mm. That's a lot of gear to take to Australia though! ;-)

CU

Peter

Richard & Jim

Thanks for your comments also. It seems all the newer versions of the

Pentax lens lineup are improvements on the older designs, as one would

expect.

Your comments and those of others on the BB have convinced me that these

used lenses I've been seeing around are good value, if they are the newer

models.

I'll look out for a good example of one and let you know my results once I've

had a chance to use one.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Kind regards

Ellis & Rick,

Thanks for your responses. Rick, I checked out the BB and did indeed find

some interesting user comments. Thanks for the link.

Kind regards

Hi all,

I'm looking at getting another lens for the P67II and my research has turned

up a lot of SMC 200mm f4 lenses on the used market in near new condition

for very reasonable prices.

I have not used this lens nor seen any images taken with it so I'm requesting

comments from user's of the 200mm. In practical use how does this lens

perform? Is there a lot on the used market because it's a lemon or is there

another reason?

I'd also like to know how it performs with the 1.4 rear converter.

Any comments gratefully received - thanks

PS I have all the specifications on the lens.

Kind regards,

Paul,

<p>

Having looked at the link, I am still going for the ringlight with either

barndoors or snoot type control of spill, or perhaps a softbox with similar spill

control with barndoors/black card, etc.

<p>

I've achieved similar lighting with soft natural light, carefully placed white

reflectors and matt black cards on the sides of the subject to produce the

light falloff effect.

<p>

They're my guesses anyway. I'm prepared to be corrected.

<p>

Let's know if you find out the technique Harold used.

<p>

Kind regards

Hi Paul,

<p>

I haven't seen the photos, but from your description "There are absolutely no

cast shadows" & "The light seems to come perpendicularly to the lens, from

all around the subject, but with a very small angle." - could he have used a

type of ringlight and perhaps used some sort of snoot to control the light

fall-off? - "This allows a very shallow lighting, and only the first one or two

centimeters of the flowers are lit and the rest fades and disappears in black."

<p>

Do you know of some examples of his work on the net, which would give a

better idea of the lighting technique?

<p>

regards

Thanks for the comments guys,

The convenience of the 100mm seems to be it's main advantage.

Thanks for the link to the b/board Bill, I'll see if I can find the thread to which

you refer.

Kind regards

Hi all,

I previously owned a P67 SMC 135mm macro lens and I am thinking of buying

a new macro for the P67II.

Is the difference in price between the new 100mm macro and the 135mm

justified? Is there any advantages between one or the other apart from the

1:1 convertor with the 100mm? I haven't been able to find any comparisons

between these two lenses.

I am not new to macro work and I found the 135mm to be an excellent

performer but I am undecided about which lens to get this time.

Any comments from users' of these lenses, especially the 100mm, will be

gratefully received.

I'm also interested in any comments from users' of the bellows unit and/or

extension tubes. How have you found these in practical operation?

Thanks in advance.

Kind regards,

Matt,

<p>

I think Steve Grimes also makes an adapter which works like the Schneider.

<p>

regards

Hi Matt

<p>

I haven't bought mine yet, but I believe they are available at B&H and

Calumet, probably at Robert White too.

<p>

Love that quote! ;-)

<p>

regards

John,

<p>

Thank you for your answer. I imagined that this would be the case, but I

wasn't certain as I haven't used this combination before.

It is now clear.

<p>

Kind regards

Just had another thought. How does using this combo effect bellows draw?

Would 1:1 using the 80mm be 160mm of draw?

<p>

------

<p>

Some days you are the bug - some days you're the windscreen!

<p>

Regards

Hi all,

<p>

I wish to use the Schneider adapter ring (product number #92-056002) which

will allow me to use my Nikkor 80 or 135mm enlarging lenses with a Copal #1

shutter for macro work.

<p>

Could anyone using this setup advise on which lens would be the best to use

and what compensation (if any) is needed to work out correct exposure. Is

the method the same as with a standard LF macro lens or do I need to take

into consideration other factors?

<p>

Any help gratefully received - thanks.

<p>

---------------

Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day.

<p>

Teach him to fish and he will sit in a boat and drink beer all day.

<p>

Kind regards

Bob,

thanks for that information. The 250mm sounds like it will be a good focal

length for the 617 format. As Linhof don't seem to have a 250mm for their

current LF lenses, is this a new design?

Christopher and Lakhinder,

thanks for the suggestion to hire the cameras first to try and I would, but I

live in a remote area and it's just not possible, that is why I rely on the

considered opinions of my contemporaries on this list.

Yes, I did make a typo with the rangefinder comment, I meant to say

viewfinder, I do realise that they are manually focused and the viewfinder

gives a guide to the angle of view.

Thanks for all the above suggestions and I have decided to go with the

Linhof. After I have put some rolls through I will post my comments on it.

Kind regards