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enrique_bocanegra

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Posts posted by enrique_bocanegra

  1. <p>Both of those lenses are not my best choice for the 7D. The 17-40 is wide enough, but very slow with no IS and falls a bit short for portraits. The 24-70 is excellent, but for full frame. Not that wide for a 7D. Consider:<br>

    ef-s 15-85mm IS.<br>

    ef-s 17-55mm f2.8 IS.</p>

  2. <p>I was excited when I played around with this new feature on my 5d2, I learned to leave it alone because it makes things worst. I corrected my ef 50mm f1.2L to be dead on with shots in close range wide open, but when I took shots of objects much further away, it was very blurry. I had the correction to +15 and set back to disable. When I worked on my 24-105, same thing. At 105 it was corrected for close ups, and messed up everything else at long shots. At the widest it was all blurry. That lens had correction of +10. Set everything back to disable. Maybe I need to learn how to use properly. It took me about two hours for each lens of taking and retaking shots. Only to go back to disable. I will follow this one if someone has some good tips on how to test and set properly. Thanks</p>
  3. <p>Hi mr. Minute men,</p>

    <p>First you should not use your screen(camera lcd, if that is what u are using) from your 5dmkii to compare to others because remember that the screen does have more resolution than a 30d lcd. I noticed the same, I tested 30D shots with 5dmkii and even 5d original, with same conditions and 5dmkii blows the others away when judging from your lcd. But to begin, you should take a raw shot, and compare to how it looks in your actual computer lcd, from there you should adjust because images from camera lcd will never be equal to the ones in your computer. Judge by what you see in your computer and get to know your camera and how it compares to images on lcd so you can adjust when you shoot to look like your lcd. My images look lighter in my 5d so than on my monitor, so I try to expose a lil more the the right than what looks good in my camera lcd. Dont use your camera lcd as a refencence to what you will get, color exposure will vary. Second always make sure the printing labs dont color adjust because most do by default. I use mpix.com, they are excellent and their customer service is excellent, give them a call and ask them this question you are posting. It will help you more.</p>

  4. <p>hummm, could be your shutter contacts or your finger. So you are saying that after pressing the shutter and keeping it pressed at highspeed drive, you only get 6 shots then back to normal? That is not normal. Its probably the shutter contacts, I would give canon service center a call.</p>
  5. <p>How many photographers actually find themselves utilizing the full 21MP of the 5Dmkii? Now that I have recently been shooting my first few weddings with the 5D mkII and having experiencing the drawbacks(slower lightroom/PP process time, CF memory space) of huge RAW files, I kinda wonder if I really need the 21MP. When I shot 5D weddings, the biggest picture size I offered and actually sold only twice was 24x36 and the biggest customers request is 16x20. The 12MP did just fine for those size, so I wonder if I should just set smaller raw file. What do you pro's do with the full 21MP?</p>
  6. <p>hmmm, that is a tough one. As far as your gear goes you have made an excellent choice and you are all set pretty much for every situation(except wide angle stuff). For sports, its a tough one because I would think that 200mm is tight enough, at least for me it is on a crop body with the 70-200 f2.8. Other than that, if you are on a tight budget, I dont see anything better than what you already have. Maybe just "get in close" or save up for a canon prime zoom or the ef 100-400 around $1500.</p>
  7. <p>You can also search youtube for some great free tutorials. When I purchased my macbook pro and final cut pro, i was already experienced in video editing with sony vegas pro 8(windows), FCP is not much different. But youtube tutorials are great even for beginners. If you live in the states why dont u register for a cheap community college course in video editing, that is how I started. I also got a great deal from the arts department recently to purchase my macbook pro and final cut pro. They got me FCP for just 350, they call it a departamental license, the deans assistant is a very cool gal and hooked me up even though i am no longer a student. The travel channel academy sounds real nice too, maybe i'll save up for that because i can imagine it is very expensive. .</p>
  8. <p>Mr. Minute Photo, I see you just ordered a 5dmkii from adorama I saw in another threat. Dont be too excited about the video though. It looks awesome, but getting it to focus correctly for moving subjects takes practice, but I suspect you will enjoy the learning process as I have. And now that it has manual features I recommend you get a good prime lens. My 5dmkii does wonders with the ef 50mm f1.2L.</p>
  9. <p>17 people. Well given the questions that you are asking, I suspect you dont have much practice with the speedlite system. For 17 people I would get three off camera radio controlled 580ex's bare flash, one at 4 o'clock, 2nd at 8 o'clock and third behind the group for backgroung. I would play around with the flash ratio's, depending on the look I want to achieve and also shoot at f8, forget f5.6 for a group. Another option is to just forget flash entirely and go with a three kit tungsten continuous lighting kit, I have seen some at adorama or BH for less than $150 american dollars with umbrella and lightstands. The tungsten system is a great starter to learn creative lighting and you can see your results upfront and when you are ready for strobes, you will have an idea of your flash style.</p>
  10. <p>The trend is the future in this business. I want to say again that the 5d mkII has helped me. Since I shot a couple of wedding with it, and offering free 10min video, I have been getting several calls asking about my services. I still stan by the free 10min, but charge extra for an hour maximum of quick footage, not actual full day coverage. I would like to get into full coverage, but as of now I only offer video with the canon xh-a1, which I hire a second person(college cinema students) to shoot. Its more conveniant and pacs more pro features for audio, which I think is just as, if not more, important than video. I would have to purchase at least three more 5dmkii(two for video with two extra guys and one for back up to my still cam), 500gb of CF memory, audio adapters(since I already have audio equipment). Until canon improves the features for pro video on the next 5dmkiii or possibly a new pro camcorder with 5dmkII chip and interchangable lens for ef feature(just dreaming), until then I dont see myself offering full event coverage with a 5dmkII, just supplement to my wedding album and video package with HD 3ccd cam.</p>

     

    <blockquote>

    <p>How hard was the transition from PC to Mac?</p>

     

    </blockquote>

    <p>Well, its like driving an 18 weeler for ten years then jumping into an automatic shift BMW with ipod dock.</p>

  11. <p>Neither of those two. If you want to be serious about your architectural and landscape work, I would consider the TS E 17mm f3.5 L. I have used both lenses you mentioned, and since I did mostly landscapes on a tripod at f8 or smaller, I rarely found the need for the 16-35. Although If i had the budget, i would want(not need) the 16-35. But since I am saving up, I chose to buy neither and wait for the initial reviews of the tilt shift 17mm. I also rented the ts e 24mm, and I am in love with tilt shift lenses. Cant wait for the 17mm to come out, it will be my dream come true.</p>
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