edward_feltman

I am reseraching a new camera and am interersted in the E-510. Reviewing

sample photos on the web it appears that most of the photos from the e-510 that

I see are biased toward the warm side of the color scale. Is this a

charactaristic of this camera.

 

Also considdering the Pentax K10d.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Ed

I use the ColoVision system and find that the best way to ensure that you get the colormeter flat on the screen is simply lay the monitor down and before gently placing the color meter on the indicated spot on the screen.

 

On another note, I used the meter on my CRT with great results, but the laptop simply would not calibrate the laptop screen well. My Sonly TFT has a bluish tint and no mater what I tried it remained too contrasty.

 

Ed

Thank you all! Not the magic bullet that I was hoping for, but at least I know the truth now.

 

Ed

This model has a Copal shutter and a lens by Kowa Optical Works of Japan F2. The lens also has a marking that says Prominar. It has the feel of a Leica. Also, I forgot to mention that it has no meter.

 

Any help identifying this would be helpfull.

 

Regards,

 

Ed

I have just picked up a Graflex 35n, 35mm camera. For the price I

paid, I fugured low risk. I was rather surprised to find VERY few

references to this model anywhere! I see many for the Graflex 35,

which looks completely differnt that this one. The reason that I

picked it up was that I felt that this was a very impressive peice

of machinery. Almost a work of art! Is anyone familiar with this

model? I am wondering why the Graflex 35mm cameras seem to sell for

so little given the obvious quality.

 

From the few references that I could find, it apperas that this

model was ony manufacutured for a year or so. I would also like to

find a repair person as the shutter speeds appear to work ony in

bulb, and the individual shutter speeds all appear to be about the

some.

 

Any advice or information?

 

Regards,

 

Ed

I have been trying to use an alternate burnig technique in

Photoshop (Photoshop v5.5) with no luck. By creating an overlay

layer of 50% Gray and then painting on the image at varios

opacities, the image should get darker. What I am finding is that

the only the blacks get darker, but the highlights are untouched!

When I create the layer, shouldn't the screen show up as 50% grey

intill I turn of the view for that layer? I get nothing with the

visiblity on, just the background layer! If I turn it off and use

the brush, I get an error message that says that I must show my

style. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Regards,

 

Ed

It's unanimous then, 16 bit is clearly the way to go! I have also found that by using Neat Image I can significantly reduce the file size by removing the noise. Of course it's rather slow with these large files.

 

Thank you all for the advice!

 

Ed

Can someone tell me what if general consensus regarding the use of 8

bit or 16 bit Greysacle. I am scanning bot 35mm and 645 negatives.

I see a very slight gradation upgrad in going to 16 bit, but double

the file size. I think my also see a slight increase in sharpness.

Is it worth double the file size.

 

Regards,

 

Ed

The only issue that I have with the FM is the lack of mirror lock up. Its a fabulous camera other than that, and I am given to understand that the models that I have identified have the mirror lock up. As for the coupling, I have all AF lenses, so there is no coupling on any of them, although I suppose that I could trade them out for the proper lens if need be (more time involved in this, more than I usually have).

 

Yes, when I will be selling the N-70 when I settle on a new model, I realy have no need for its features and worry about the electonics (the camera is mint but my opinion is that electronics are the achillies heal of anything, and it has no mirror lock up.

 

As for handheld meter, I use it only in some cases and would still like a TTL meter.

 

Still, I am confused about the difference between AI, AIS and non AI.

 

Thanks for all of the great input so far!

 

Ed

OK, with the great input of this group I have narrowed down my search

to one of the old Nikkormats or Nikon F. These are my hot bottons:

 

-Mechanical only (except for the meter)

-Split image focus

-Depth of feild preview

-Non stop down metering

-Center weighted meter

-Would like mirror lockup (not critical, but definetely a plus)

 

Can anyone tell me which models encompass the above criteria; the

only one that I have been able to rule out is the first Nikkormat due

to it's average meter.

 

Also, can someone tell me what the difference is between non ai, ai,

ais? I am thinking that a non ai requires stop down to meter: Am I

right about this?

 

Thank you,

 

Ed

Wow, some realy clear feelings on this subject from all. I realy like the idea of simply losing the N-70 and replacing it with a F or Nikkormat. This would allow me to retain a fine peice of equiptment and purchase non MF lenses at significantly less cost than the AF while being assured of reliability. Any advice on the Nikormats or manual Nikon bodies that would be appropriate.

At the risk of touching of a war of brand fanatacism, I am

considering giving up my Nikon equiptment in favor of a less

expensive brand. Currently I have a Nikon FM and N-70. I dearly

love the FM for its simplicity and sturdyness. There are no

electonics to go bad and its built extrimely well. I find that I use

the N-70 occasionally taking sports photos etc, and I do use the spot

meter occasionally, but not often enough to be much of a deciding

facotr. Like everyone else, I continue to spend money on lenses and

accessories. I have a 28-110, a 50mm and 200mm lenses. I need a

camera and a backup body.

 

I am interested in switching to some of the other brands that are

built well, have little to go rong, and are infinetly less expensive

for lenses. An additional factor would be the availability of

parts. Some of the names that come to mind are Yashica, Konica and

Mamiya/Sekor. (Though I love the solid build of the Mamiya 35mm

products, I am concerned because there does not seem to be a lot of

cameras out there for future parts availability). I would like to

know from the group how they would rate these brands and perhaps get

some model reccomendations. I would like to have a depth of field

preiview, split focus, and mirror lockup (alternatively, the FM's

mirror lockup is engaged with the timer).

 

I think in this way I can get a wider range of lenses and accessories

with the investment of significantly less money. Any input?

I thought that the Delta 100/400 films were a formula very similar the the T-Max 100/400 films, so why does T-max geta 25% increase in development time and Delta a 50%?

In this case its a Mamiya RB67. I am also considdering a 645. Though there is a big difference, dollars are always an issue!

It's unanimous, I dosen't matter how I do it as long as it's always the same. Simple. Also, I love the idea of an open tank into which I drop the reel.

 

Thank you

Thank you, good input from all. Digital compatibility certainly may be an issue, but with prices for a digital back for a 645 at many thousands of dollars, I think it will be a while before it comes into price range that this pooor amature can afford. Though I do think about it from time to time, I like my hands in the soup, and probably will not switch untill I am forced to. My main concern for the pro equiptment is the stress that it may have been under from 10 years of pro use...springs, shutters etc. Perhaps this stuff is built so well that with regualr CLA, it just does not wear out.

I am upgrading my camera equiptment and have an opportunity to buy a

package from a professional photographer. The equiptment is about

ten years old, but has had a cla every year. Does anyone have a

feeling for weather it is better to buy used equiptment from an

amature that may not have had as much use, or from a pro who has

taken care of his equiptment.

 

I am of course interested in longevity as part of the equation.

 

Ed

When considering development times, it seems to that because

of �pour time� there could be significant variations. For example,

does development time begin as soon as one begins pouring chemical

into the tank (this can vary quite a bit depending on tank size and

number of rolls in the tank) or when pouring is complete? Perhaps

half way through? How about ending times. Would time end as soon as

one begins dumping developer from the tank, at the end of the pour,

or when the film is fully immersed in stop bath? Perhaps this is

over analyzing, but with a 20 second pour a 20 second dump time and

say a recommended development time of 6 minutes, one could actually

be extending development by 10%. How do the individuals in this

group handle this issue, or is it even an issue to worry about?

 

Thank you,

 

Ed

Can anyone tell me what other brand lenses or systems would be

compatable with Mamiya 645? I would like to find a 45mm lens and

would love some reccomendation.

Thank you. Makes sense, and what if suspected, but I just thought I would confirm.

 

Ed

I just noticed something odd (perhaps it is normal but I never

noticed before. I use an N-70 and just purchased a Sigma 28-105 3.8-

4.6 to use with it and my FM. When moving focal length of the lens

when on the N-70 in manual mode (and all others for that mater) the

camera registers changing f-stops. at 45mm it may read 5.6 and when

moved to 105mm it may read f8 or f8, even if the apature ring on the

lens is set to 5.6.

 

I would expect to see this at mimimum apature, but not in the

middle. Any advice or explanations? Will my FM read this apature

propery when coupled to the meter?

 

Thank you

 

Ed

I found the source of the trouble! I developed the latest roll shot with my old metering style, developed in fresh chemistry and D-76 and lo and behold the same problem. However this time I shot the scene at all shutter speeds and noticed the proper exposure three stops under where I metered proper exposure.

 

As the shutter speeds sound right on, at Bill Mitchell's suggestion I looked at the apature and found that it was not closing. Closer inspection revealed that the flange in the camera designed to move the peg on the lens that closes the iris was bent. I simply bent it back into place and am now good to go.

 

Now back to learning the Zone System! Without the help of this group I would still be cursing the entire process. I have learned quite a lot from you all. Thank you for everything!

 

Regards,

 

Ed

Oke doke then, I think I have got it and will give it a try. I shot a test roll yesterday without trying to use the zone system, have a fresh batch of D-76 and fresh fixer, so I�m back in familiar territory. Hopefully I will have time to develop it tonight to see that everything is still OK with my system and procedures.

 

While shooting my test roll I noted that when I compared readings of the spot meter (on the N70) and center weighted, the spot meter called for significantly more exposure, perhaps the source of all of my trouble so far.

 

So my first sojourn into the world of the Zone System has been kind of a bummer probably because I change to many variables at on time, developer, camera and metering tecnique. I was so excited by the first roll developed in Xtoll, and now am disappointed. Thank you for all of your help. I will let you know how the film turns out after tomorrow.

What a great group. Everyone is so helpfull and willing to share expertise!

 

Yes, I did mean make the apature smaller! Taking your advice I went to the park today just to shoot a roll as I used to without using the Zone System. I shot the scene at all shutter speeds just to see what will happen, however will not have time to process the roll for a day or two.

 

A question on the use of the grey card. If you have a very small card as suggested, and no spot meter, is it usefull to bring the camera to the grey card to meter it to be sure that the only thing being read by the meter is the card (assuming that the card is the light that you are trying to meter)? I have always wondered about the intensity of light falling off with distance. Putting the question another way, if I had a spot meter to measure the light from the card (or any object for that matter at say 20 feet, and then at 2 feet, would I get the same reading?

 

Ed

Mark,

 

Perhaps I mis spoke (not having the camera in front of me when writing). To clarify, if the shadow meters in zone V and I want it in zone 3, I reduce the apature while watching my meter to place it two stops below the metered reading. I then check the fall of the highlight (in this case it should be zone 5 assuming a 2 stop range from highlight to shadow...correct? (this is the way that I have been doing it).

 

If this is the inapropriate forum for this discussion I apologise as at first I thought the problem was with development.

 

Thank you,

 

Ed