rnelson

Sorry for the delayed acknowledgment; I thought I was setup to receive replies via email, but apparently not. Thanks for the advice. I will investigate both solutions. Best, Randy

Hi All, I shot a wedding using two cameras with both cameras' image counters set to 'zero.' What is the best way to import these images into one LR folder so there are no conflicts and so that I see them in TIME order when I begin editing? Thanks, Randy

So I easily installed the two 8gb memory sticks from OWC into my iMac, giving me a total of 20 gb along with the original 4 GB, and wow, I am simultaneously editing several 24mb photos between LR and PS with ease. The speed increase is great. Best $160 I've spent in a long while.. Can't believe I didn't do this sooner. Thanks for all the advice!

... and now I'm thinking about replacing my internal hd with an ssd. We'll see.

Thanks everyone. I ordered a 16 GB kit (2 x 8gb) from Macsource.com today.. $154.99 shipped.

Will do thanks. ^^^

I appreciate the thoughtful replies everyone. Seems it makes sense to upgrade my ram. It may not fully benefit my every working situation, but it should yield a performance upgrade for much of what I doing in LR and several other apps.

Ok, I see. I'll need to calculate this.

Thanks. So. Sounds like a healthy ram upgrade is worth doing, yes?

Hi All - I've been using a mid-2011 iMac 21.5" 2.5 Ghz i5, with only 4 MB of RAM. It's OK working with 80-100 LR RAW files coming from my Nikon D610, however I am now editing multiple images in Photoshop (sometimes as layers) and performance is obviously way too slow. I am not in a position to purchase a new machine right how, and I am wondering if I can get by maybe for another year upping the RAM on my current machine. Thoughts? If so, recommendations on best sources/prices? Thanks, Randy

Hello All - Yes I realize there is separate thread for website questions, but I already have a photo site up, however I am just not happy with the performance or reliability. So I am posting here as more of a business question than a technical one. I'm beginning to get the feeling that high-end pros do not use 'turn-key' sites as much as the providers of these sites seem to suggest. Am I wrong about this? I'm interested in how pros deliver their images for proofing and for the selling prints. I'm beginning to think a regular web site with galleries, combined with a separate order-fulfillment site and or dropbox or google drive might be a better way to go. Thoughts? My current photo hosting plan is feature rich, but performance and reliability IMO is low. My site was down for nearly five hours yesterday. Sometimes I am waiting between 30-60 seconds for a simple action to load in my web browser (not counting moving files, which I would expect to take longer, of course). As I begin to add up the time waiting for this service to respond I'm feeling like I'm settling for a poor performing product/service. I am attempting to go full-time now, and while these issues were not of great importance in the past, they are now of much greater importance now. Any and all thoughts are welcome, thanks! Randy -

C-watson, yes I've done that before, but it is somewhat akward. Not an issue if I have an assistant, which is not very often. Sometimes the subject holds the meter, which is ok, but doesn't solve the problem... metering backgrounds, individual lights for ratios, etc. I can place the meter on a stand, again akward. Thanks for your link, I'll reach out to sk. Gary - I have some cheap eBay triggers, and I totally forgot the remote trigger feature. I'll experiment with that. Thanks for the replies. Randy

Hi All - it's been a while since I've been on this forum, and I'm not sure I'm posting in the best category (feel free to move this post). Does anyone know the best way to set-up my Sekonic L-358 to wirelessly trigger my Flashpoint Streaklight AD-360ii? (Same as Godox AD-360). I like the R2 tranceiver, and don't want to get into the pocket wizard thing necessarily. Any thoughts? Thanks. Randy

I have owned and used a Sekonic light meter for my studio work and sometimes in the field for portraits for the past six years. I am wondering however, if there are any pro photographers who do not use a light meter, and if so how and why. I've never used a LM for any event shooting, either shooting with natural light or on-camera flash. Thanks, Randy

After moving from LR3 to 6 I notice in ththe export section that there is a File Settings section that now has a jpg quality slider, and a separate Image Setting section. Am I correct in assuming in order to output high Rez jpgs for print, I want to set the jpg quality to maximum, 100%, and then choose whatever resolution I like (typically 300 ppi).

<p>I have decided to buy whatever I need to adapt my large, heavy duty Manfrotto tripod into a light stand. That stand combined with a sand bag weight would make a very solid tripod in the field - only up to a certain hight though. I also own a good mono pod, and as Marc suggested, I'll buy a conversion for that as well. </p> <p>Bob - Does the cart come standard with big wheels? What brand/model? Nice travel setup.</p>

Thanks all. I strongly suspected that using an assistant for off camera lighting sessions, particularly on a beach, was an industry standard necessity. I am on Florida's Treasure Coast. When I moved here from the northeast several years ago I too was struggling with the massive amount of ambient light and glare. I have been learning how to work in those conditions and it has been tricky. Unless I am shooting at golden hours, I find a speed light with any modifier is largely ineffective in many situations, which is forcing me to consider the vagabond battery system for my alien bees or another similar system (maybe with TTL capabilities. The beach is an extremely popular location for shooting paid work, so it has become obvious that I need to master shooting in this environment. Tha rolling cart with big wheels looks like a good idea for moving gear to and from the beach or other locations. I am thinking of making my own travel case using a hard shell tool box retrofitted with inflatable wheels. Got caught in a torrential downpour last week shooting a sunrise family portrait. It would have been nice to quickly dump everything into a a big bin and close the lid! Also, I could lock the lid, which would make it difficult for anyone to steal gear. Thanks for the ideas regarding various modifiers. Randy

Thank you for the replies. For my art photography, i will crop however I want the image to look. A company like perfect posters allows me to order nearly any size I crop. For clients, portraits etc, I'm leaning toward offering print choices that match the majority of frames that are available in the local stores. That is not to say I have never cropped a client photo to an unusual size for artistic reasons. I have not yet reach the point where I am selling custom framed prints to clients, and I still offer digital files to customers that they can then print and frame themselves. The more I study photography technique and business I realize that are many ways to shoot and do business, and often it seems to come down to what works best for each individual. Great replies as usual. Randy

<p>Not specifically a wedding or event question, though it could be...</p> <p>I'm beginning to shoot family portraits and engagement photos on the beach. I suspect it won't be long before I'm shooting events on the beach too, as I live in FL, and the beach is a popular location for weddings and other events.</p> <p>I am using (for now) one off camera flash (speed light) with a 2x2 portable soft box (a-la Strobist). I would also like to use umbrellas. My problem... wind. I can usually anchor the stand successfully using bricks in a sand bag, but the SB just doesn't stay put on windy days. <br> <br> For a few shoots I have been fortunate to have my partner accompany me, to either hand hold a SB, or to stabilize a stand-mounted SB. This isn't always going to practical.</p> <p>Full disclosure - I'm using a budget light stand and accessories to hold my SB. I'm sure I'll need to drop some money on high end accessories, but if so... what kind?</p> <p>I see myself wanting to use a second light source, and getting battery packs for my alien bees, or maybe even upgrading to one of newer portable lighting systems down the road.<br> <br> Of course, not everything I shoot is on a beach, but outdoor events are common in the southern regions.<br> <br> As always, any and all advice on this topic would be greatly appreciated.</p> <p>Thank you,</p> <p>Randy -</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hi - <br> I am just getting into selling and offering prints. How should I crop my images that are "for sale" as prints and/or downloads? Are 8x10 prints still the majority standard? Of course, cropping a series of photos to 8x10 increases a little time in post. </p> <p>I'm expecting my clients to purchase frames from their local store, and I still see many 8x10 frames for sale, along with the other newer sizes. Also, how does this impact my selling prints in larger sizes?</p> <p>I sometimes like to crop square. Is this a popular size to sell from? </p> <p>My thinking is to keep my offerings varied but simple, as I have learned from years of selling other products that offering a customer too many choices is generally not the best sales strategy. I am also a fan of the KISS theory.</p> <p>Any and all points of view regarding this subject would be greatly appreciated.</p> <p>Thanks!</p> <p>Randy -</p>

<p>Hi - <br> 1.)I imported a series of RAW NEF photos into LR3, into a sub-folder of my main photography folder where all of my photos reside (in their respective sub-folders). </p> <p>2.) I Edited my keepers. </p> <p>3.) Decided I wanted a "temporarily" move the folder with the RAW .NEF images to another location to sort out an folder organization issue (which honestly I could have fought out better in the first place).. regardless...</p> <p>4.) Of course, LR3 couldn't find my photos after the move, as I expected, so I Control+clicked on the folder image to choose "Find Missing Folder," which worked fine.</p> <p>5.) The folder was found, but all of my edits were gone. I suspect they are still residing in my LR Catalog associated with those RAW files, but how do I retrieve my edits?</p> <p>6.) I see an option for "Synchronize Folder" and "Update Folder Location," but I'm reluctant to try those options, opting rather to ask this forum what I should do next.</p> <p>Fortunately, I exported my edited keepers as .JPGs prior to moving the folder with the RAW images, so I can deliver the keepers, but I really need to be able to go back to the original edited RAW files.</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>Randy -</p>

Thank you for the replies. I decided to further trouble shoot this issue a few days ago by ordering a hot shoe adaptor with ITTL contacts. It arrived today and I attached it to my D700 and then attached the Yungnuo radio trigger to the hot shoe adaptor. The trigger now works and confirms to me the camera hot shoe is somewhat worn as compared to new. The exposure problem with the flash is solved now as well. It seems the reason why the SB-600 worked properly on the D700 is because the pins on the Yungnuo products are just the slightest bit different than the Nikon flash, and they weren't making proper contact on the 700s wearing hot shoe, and keep in mind all my other gear worked perfectly on my D300. For now, this little hot shoe adapter will be a work around until I send the camera out to service when I'm ready (I just had a big auto repair)! Back story: I bought the camera body used on eBay, and as Rodeo mentioned, it probably saw heavy mounted flash use in a rough way, causing the wear. Thank again... R.

<p>Hi - </p> <p>I already suspect I have a bad hot shoe on my D700 (about 45k click). It is not firing my Yougnuo 603 wireless triggers (I own four), and they work perfectly on my D300. Leading me to my latest issue, which is...</p> <p>1.) Using my D700, Nikon SB-600 flash on iTTL, flash head facing the subject (no diffusers), and Tamron 17-50 2.8 lens, camera in P, iso 200 (no auto ISO), I take a test shot in my living room. Photo is expectedly "flashy," but acceptable in terms of histogram, the room is fairly evenly lit.</p> <p>I repeat the same test as above with my Yungnou 568EX flash (near-nikon equivalent) replacing the SB-600. The flash fires, but the image is VERY underexposed. Keep in mind my triggers aren't firing with this camera either. Repeating the test test again, with the D700 in M, and matching exposure settings from P, with both flashes in iTTL produces the same result... Nikon fine - Yungnuo not.</p> <p>2.) I now repeat the tests with the exact parameters as above shooting my D300. Nikon flash is again flashy, and the Yungnuo flash was exposing the photos properly too (nearly the same histogram as the SB-600, just a bit less flashy, which I liked).</p> <p>To me it seems that the contacts on the Nikon flash are likely making all contacts on both cameras' hot shoes. I suspect the contacts on the Yungnuo flash is designed the same way. Although the Yungnuo flash DOES fire on the D700, I again suspect the iTTL data isn't reaching the flash due to the potential hot shoe issue.</p> <p>All of this said, combined with all of the many threads on this forum describing D700 hot shoe issues, lead me to believe i need to send my body out to Nikon for servoce. I'm posting this story here to see if I missed anything.</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>Randy -</p>

<p>Hello Joe - <br> Thanks for the reply. <br> Yes, confirmed the PC out on the 603 is an OUTPUT only.<br> I'm not too keen on using a screwdriver on my camera's hot shoe, but will investigate further. I may be having another issue with this camera, so it may be going back to Nikon for service, and you may see another post from me about these other issues.<br> Thanks for your help.<br> R -</p>

Hi. I own a D700, and if I use the Youngnuo 603n transceiver on this camera the Youngnuo does not fire my remote flash. Unfortunately I suspect my D700 hot shoe is somewhat worn, and does not make reliable contact with the Youngnuo transceiver. I know this because I am able to move the transceiver just a bit when it is mounted to the hot shoe and I can see the ready light go on and off. I would like to trigger the Yongnuo transceiver using the cameras built in PC port (which works fine triggering my AB-800s). Looks like I need a PC to PC cable. Questions: 1. The cameras PC port is Male - correct? That means I'll need a short PC to PC cable both ends Male for the D700 and the Youngnuo transceiver. 2. Any reason this would not work? I do not want to send the camera out to service at this time, and this workaround should keep me rolling in the short term. Also, I suspect if I buy a decent hot shoe adaptor and then mounted the RF-603 on it, this would also work. Other thoughts welcome. Thanks, Randy