tim_cornish1

<p>I fixed one last month. I pulled off the rear ring and found that the lever was bent - I straghtened it out and it works - you have nothing to loose by dis assembly of the linkage.</p>

<p>I have a T 20 that does not work with the plate</p>

<p>I love these cameras (or used to). I have had three that have died on me - one with the gear issue that John H mentions. This might not work and might ruin the camera but on several OM 2 cameras that I have bought really cheap to tinker with I did the gear thing to cure the jamb then washed the bottom gears out with lighter fluid and this helped avoid the recurrence at least until now. For the rank amateur like me messing with the OM-2spot or 4 and 3 is a recipe for frustration and ruination. If you want a great and reliable OM2 spot send it off to John for CLA. In the long run it beats buying used ones every time yours dies (I have tried the former with 0M4s and finally bit the bullet and sent one to him and it is now my favorite).<br>

I still have a couple of OM2s but now always take my 4ts, 2ns and 1ns if I need to be away in the stix</p>

<p>Well, aftercleaning the switch panel which no results I took of the top, cleared away all the electronics and took out the focusing screen and put it in an OM 4 - a discernable diffrerence over the 4n screen that was in there, adios PC!</p>

<p>I have an OM 40, I bought it a long time ago and the meter never worked in the sense that it is not coupled. The displays all go on and react to different lighting appropriately and the battery check works but the camera fires at the same speed whether it is on P, A or M or whether it is dark or light.</p>

<p>I was going to get the focusing screen out and use it in an OM 3 because it is brighter but if the fix is easy I might try. I take these cheaper OMs to places where they are likely to get messed up and therefore no great loss and the PC is a very able camera for that purpose (TTL Flash for macro, epm zone metering etc) - my favorite of the cheap OMs</p>

<p>Any help could save this one from the parts bin - Thanks in advance</p>

<p>I you are willing to take the time and mess with filters you can get good results with photographic slide coping. You must use warming filters and a faitly ow contrat print (c 41 film but I have gotten very good results this way - making negatives and then having then printed. I mostly scan though with a plustek. The results can be very good. Printing is expensive though.</p>

<p>John, thanks - I will be shipping it off to you shortly.</p>

<p>I would like to do that. Can you tell me how much it would be?</p>

<p>I just got a nice om4 at a real bargain price. I have several but this new one has a rather dim LCD read out that is brownish in color. I can see it fine and everything else works as it should. Should I be worrried about this? The camera came from a smoker because it smelled awful when I got it. Could this have caused the discoleration?</p>