tobey_bilek

<p>I had a friend who is 250 # and wanted to look thin. I have no clue how to do it.</p>

<p>I ended up copying an old photo when he was thin and used that. He was happy. It was all no charge.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>If it looks like most of the HDR, it is most like overdone as most are. You are not supposed to tell unless it for special effect.</p>

<p>Incident meter placed in the "same light as" or in the subject position. Works for digital and any other kind of camera. Sekonic Studio Delux, never need batteries.</p>

<p>Quality Light Metric In Hollywood may have some used meters. George is the meter repair expert in USA.</p>

<p>With experience, sunny 16 is ok with any camera, digi or film. The "grey" area is extimating hazy shadow to no shadow area. Bright sun always works 1/ISO @16 or 1/ half ISO @11 or 1/ quarter ISO @ F8. </p>

<p><a href="http://www.photokaboom.com/photography/learn/tips/054a_exposure_sunny_16.htm">http://www.photokaboom.com/photography/learn/tips/054a_exposure_sunny_16.htm</a></p>

<p>Meter the scene with the digi and use the same setting on the "brick". If the camera shutter is accurate and you meter correctly, this will also work.</p>

<p>The table above used to be included with every roll of Kodak film, then they went to printing inside the box, then it just stopped.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Digi works perfectly if you do not overexpose.<br>

Someone started the expose to the right to minimise grain, and it may work for that, but the downside is a step in PP to bring the exposure to where it is supposed to be.</p>

<p>It is like a used car, all depends on condition.</p>

<p>Fake. It does not remotely resemble a Leica. If it were a Leica, it would have little value because of its condition.</p>

AF lenses auto focus withD80/D90/ D200/D300/D700/D3 . Spend the extra money to get the body screw drive and metering which is cheaper than all new lenses.

 

Cheaper consumer like D40/60/5000 bodies require AF S or VR or G lenses all of which are more expensive.

<p>Don`t know the cause but if you select the sky and average the pixels they will go away. Average is under the filter menue somewhere. PS is on a different computer.</p>

<p>Very nice pic by the way</p>

<p><a href="http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html">http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html</a><br>

 <br>

Ai and later lenses have a step in the aperture ring around 8 to 16 .  This step pushes a tab that tells the camera the speed of the lens, ie 2.0  or 1.4  or 2.8.  This allows metering in manual and Aperture prefered mode on a D300, D200, D700.  Shutter and program can not be used.  If you put a non AI lens on the camera like this,  you will damage the tab.<br>

 <br>

D40/60/5000 do not have the tab and thus will take any Nikon lens that does not require a mirror lockup and you can take pictures like an unmetered camera.   Diaphragm is functional.<br>

Use a hand meter if you want.  </p>

<p>Should be correct, 4.6 Folow instructions and save the original in case there is a problem. Move 3.8 to a location out of the plig-in folder before you download.</p>

<p>Thats for Leicas without the IR filter built in.</p>

<p>Buy the FX D700/D3, camera and the 645 lens adapter. You probably will loose wide open metering, maybe all, and auto diaphragm which makes it a deal killer for a complete lens kit. To utilize some special soft focus lens or something else special, I would put up with the shortcomings.</p>

<p>450 lens and FX. But that was not an option. There is no way I would pay for a 24 MP FX camera and crop out the center as a planned event.</p>

<p>Second choice is 300 MM plus D300.</p>

<p>Keep in mind the second choice should meet your needs.</p>

<p>Hang a piece of paper and see how big it has to be to cover the background. </p>

<p>Find a better friend. If they have the Ai tab, they will work just fine. If not, Aiconversions.com will fix them. The 17/35 is already Ai and most likely the 80/200.</p>

<p>You will need to stop the wides down to F11 or 8 to get very fine details in the far corners perfect. If there is out of focus or sky there, you will not notice a thing. The new zooms are not much better.<br>

NX2 corrects lateral CA automatically and is my prefered program for editing, $119 at Cameta camera. It is better than Photoshop for Nikon.</p>

<p>Only M and A modes will work. S and P mode will be lost unless you have chipped lenses.<br>

The 17/35 is chipped. See if the 80/200 has the same electronic contacts.<br>

Ai lenses have a step in the lens mount skirt between 8 and 16 depending on speed of the lens. Check the primes.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Don`t sell until you are sure primes are the way you like to work ( recheck current prices for the big increase). I find there is room for both specially when I have to change lenses with a digi where it is difficult to do so and keep out dirt such as outside. I sort of work inside the bag with the lid as a wind break keeping the camera mount facing down. It is a pain, but gets the job done. </p>

<p>Consider if you really need AF wide lenses when manual will do. Maybe this will save enough cash to keep the zoom.</p>

<p>I would leave #2 alone. But if you want to play, make two new layers. On the first new one make a selection of the subject and save it. Then go to layer, layer mask, reveal selection and all the subject is masked. Make your lightness correction with levels or curves.</p>

<p>Go the top new layer. Recall the saved selection, invert it, make the reveal mask as in above. Then clip the mask to just that layer. The last two might actually be one a single step, layer-clipping mask. This keeps the adjust with levels or curves confined to that layer. Sorry I don`t remember exactly as I seldom do it & PS is on another computer. </p>

<p>You will probably want to feather the edge of the selection one or two pixels AFTER you save it. And again after you invert the recalled selection. Otherwise it can look like a pasteup.</p>

<p>There might be a good RGB channel from which to make the mask. If not, use the magic wand or the new selection nested with it starting in CS3.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I prefer it to the the 1.4 lens. It is very sharp corner to corner at 4 to 11. 2.8 and 2.0 are very useable. The 1.8 Ai is very similar.</p>

<p>I use my 2.0 and 1.8 on a D700 with great results.</p>

<p><a href="http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/technology/nikkor/n02_e.htm">http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/technology/nikkor/n02_e.htm</a></p>

<p>You need to set the the way the camera renders the JPEG output. Canon has five settings among which are natural, vivid faithful and others. Picking one with more vivid settings will increase the color saturation and contrast. I will guess the old camera was set to vivid or just had the color and contrast turned up. The new one is factory default at a lower setting.<br>

You will need to consult the manual for more details as I am not a Canon digi user except for an old point and shoot.<br>

The use of photoshop or other editing program can obtain the brighter colors you desire . </p>

<p>I saw a test a few days ago from D3 and D3x. There is a difference, but very little.</p>

<p>On 8x10, D700/D3 are close to D300. Getting bigger will show of the D700.</p>

<p>MP is way overrated. Sensor size is considerably more important. To get a double size linearly, you need 4X the area or MP count, ie 10 MP to 40 MP all else being equal. 10 to 12 is insignificant.</p>

<p>MAAS is a very good metal polish, but it is abrasive. You can polish right thru a 1/10000 ' of chrome. Yes that is as thick as it is. one ten thousandth. Use the turtle was stuff above.</p>

<p>We have a carbon steel knife which I bought for the French design, but it stains just looking at some foods, but then I knew that before I bought it. I use MAAS on it to bring it back to new. That is how abrasive it is. Wish I could find an 8" Forestner chef . These are beautiful knives still made but cheapend severely and design changed to more like German.<br>

I dislike the Greman Wustoff and such.</p>

<p>Just to show I am not prejudice, I like German food and cameras better than French.</p>

<p>Turtle Wax Chrome Polish from the auto supply store.</p>

<p>Stay away from solvents and abrasives. Car wax applied with a cotton swab to the chrome when you are done and then a coat or two of New Finish to protect the wax. I use this combo on all my cars, cameras, and lenses. The cars look new for decades. Lenses never show ware.</p>

<p>McGuires #26 yellow Wax New Finish liquid Get from the auto supply store. </p>

<p>It works, but there are still gaps. I would spray or use one of the waterproofing products for shoes from REI ( outdoor outfitter) . Then carry a plastic bag to cover the entire holster. </p>

<p>Many Lowe Pro bags are AW which means there is a built in waterproof cover that pulls out and encases the entire bag. I used mine one and it was a lifesaver.</p>

<p>Newer 16/85if I could have but one.</p>

<p>Nikon lenses are under warrantee for 5 years in USA if you registered it properly. </p>

<p>Luckey devil. That is THE time to go.</p>