g_k7

<p>You already have the largest "set it and forget it" format size camera there is.<br>

In summation: no, there are no similar alternatives to the GA645Z, in larger format.</p>

<p>You could use a cable release in "Bulb" mode. The English-language manual states on page 72 that using the C645 in method won't "execute" the data printing.<br>

Or, see where the printing actually occurs from either within the back or via the camera body. I'm guessing it's in the back as it prints on a part of the film that is mostly hidden by the film gate (hence is dark).<br>

<br />Maybe you try taping over it? Don't know if it's possible, or if any "goo" will remain and degrade susbsquent "executed" data. ;-)</p>

<p>Graham,<br>

I have the 500mm f/5.6 and can say that I'm not all that fond of it, really. It's not that large nor heavy, but the color fringing is very very noticeable if you're used to modern IF mechanism and ED glass lenses.<br>

I've shot cityscapes with it more than a few times and was a little chagrined. Thankfully, it's not a particularly pricey lens on the used market, and I suspect that's what might have pulled you into the 500mm vortex as well.<br>

If you're shooting B+W I think you'll be quite happy with it.<br>

I will say, it's reasonably sharp. You might also consider a microprism collar focussing screen for your AFD, if you're going to be doing some manual focus work. Some of the lenses (APO for example) focus quite past infinity so those faraway captures you really have to pay attention. Hint: the screen comes with it's own tweezers, no need to order the $15 ones a website might suggest as an accessory. They are already in the box ;-)<br>

Ask me how I know...</p>

<p>Graham,<br>

The 300 APO AF isn't that heavy for such a large lens, really. Parts of it are made of plastic. Contrast that with the 300mm APO f2.8 M645, which is an absolute beast.<br>

Both are internal-focus, which is nice.<br>

<br />The AF isn't super-fast, but this is medium format, screw-driven technology we're talking about here. It's likely more a function of the body variant you're using.<br>

<br />I can handhold the lens and camera for a little bit, but it's not preferred for any length of time. Speaking of length, it's a long assembly, the camera+lens, and I'm not sure you'd be very "stealthy" walking around with that stack, especially as the lens is putty white. 35mm format would give you much more reach with a smaller package, if "from a distance slice o' life" street photography is what you're after, just my two cents.<br>

<br />The tripod mount is included with the lens when bought new, but if used, may have been detached. The flip-out knob mechanism is dorky, in my opinion, but it works, and the knob is captive, if I recall correctly.<br>

The hood is integral to the lens body, it is of the sliding type.<br>

Lastly, camera/shutter vibrations can really affect this whole setup, when shot at slower speeds. I would hazard a guess...that below 1/125th to about 1 second, you really need to be careful as even with mirror lockup, my shots seemed to lack the clarity of faster or slower shutter speeds.<br>

It is pretty sharp, though.</p>

<p>Hi Graham,<br>

I don't think people are trying to be rude - but your postings show a lot of natural curiosity about the Mamiya M645 and AFD system and I think the responses received indicate that this was a question that a little spelunking in the manual might have avoided. Many of the other questions you've asked, are "experience-related" and thus are probably best asked of other users, as you have. :-)<br>

Right then, I'm off to answer your 300 APO question.<br>

http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00VnWR<br>

http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00VqXf<br>

http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00Vn65<br>

http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00Vmrb<br>

http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00Ve2O<br>

http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00VcBj</p>

<p>I have used a Mamiya 6 for a few years now, and though quirky in part because it's a rangefinder, really enjoy using it.<br>

<br /> I have never used a Hasselblad and am unlikely to do so in the (immediate) future, but in terms of image quality, peering through an 8x loupe at chromes on a light table, the sharpness and contrast of the Mamiya 6 lens lineup is really impressive.<br>

It really does depend on what you shoot, however. SLRs and RF are two very distinct animals.<br>

If I were unitiated, and the name alone could sway me, I'd probably pick a Hasselblad simply because of the cachet associated with it. Again, this is independent of knowing what to shoot, at all.<br>

<br /> However, used Hasselblad film equipment isn't all that expensive in comparison, so the price of a good condition Mamiya 6 with the 75mm and 150mm lenses isn't going to be "that much cheaper" (if at all) then potentially similar setups in the Hasselblad range.</p>

<p>That being said, I chose the M6 as my first entry into Medium Format a few years ago. I could have ventured over to Hasselblad's side of the fence as a point of curiosity a while ago, but still haven't.</p>

<p>Again, you have to decide for yourself. If you do choose the Mamiya, make sure the focus is somewhat close to ideal calibration. A medium format rangefinder with an out-of-whack RF mechanism is a real exercise in futility - you'll weep for all the blown focus, that ruins shots.</p>

 

<p>Where or how would it mount? <br /> <br /> (no, it does not exist)<br /> <br /> Why would you want to right-angle view a rangefinder? Being low to the ground, or trying "discreet" street MF/rangefinder style?<br /> <br /> (merely curious)</p>

<p>For what it's worth, I think peering through a darkened angle-finder, with medium format DOF limitations, and seeking out the focus patch, in conjunction with the LEDs on the left...that would be a recipe for some serious frustration.</p>

<p>Just be aware that some Coolscans don't play nice, when sharing a firewire "channel".<br>

I.e. if I turn on my "dump drive" while the 9000 is on...that's is for the connection between Nikon Scan software and the Coolscan hardware.<br>

I get a pleasant error message.</p>

<p>People can do what they want, they own the lenses and Kyocera is long out of the camera market. If they wish to slice 'n' dice something to use it as they see fit, that's their choice.<br>

http://www.flickr.com/groups/contax645/discuss/72157623383572736/</p>

<p>A few things I can think of:<br>

Ask him/her to bring along chromes (or negs if that's all they have) that were shot recently with the camera/lens. You'll know by the framing that it's a Mamiya RF and not another 6x6 SLR (i.e. no film holder cuts, it will bear horizontal film travel, etc.)<br>

Check for frame spacing, excessively blown exposures if the subject matter doesn't seem challenging from a lighting or contrast perspective. See if there are surface scratches or imperfections on the negs from bad transport or scratchy rollers or pressure plate. See the edges in case there seem to be some leaks that aren't easily explained away by "loose paper" upon removing the finished film spool.<br>

Check the pressure plate for excessive wear or snags, with your finger.<br>

See if the plastic disk that covers the rangefinder is intact and unmolested. If not, ask "why?" It could be perfect still, but why was it accessed?<br>

Verify that the meter responds to varying conditions; bring a light meter you trust, in case.<br>

See that the winding mechanism moves fairly smoothly and the lens cocking mechanism works; test the camera by placing it in bulb, opening the back and keeping the dark slide undeployed and the lensmount fully extended. Fire the shutter and hold it open, this will allow you to look inside the lens elements with a flashlight, as the shutter otherwise blocks the view through a lens. Check the diaphragm blades from both sides.<br>

Investigate the battery compartment for corrosion, and though it sounds funny, point the camera at something slightly bright to ensure that the LEDs in the VF are robust enough for you to still see them - some LEDs are weak enough that you can't see them during a key day, the exterior light will overpower the LED's brightness.<br>

Ensure that the framing lines follow the lens, when fully mounted. You won't see a change when the 50 G lens is mounted, but if you have a 75 G or 150, the framelines must adapt or something's wrong.<br>

Check the insides of the extending fabric bellows for tears, and when the mount is fully extended, test for mount movement, especially by focussing at infinity, looking through the rangefinder window at something far away, and if there's any play in the rangefinder patch display or the physical mount or lens mount itself, then it will likely need servicing.<br>

For a relatively simple camera, a lot can go wrong with the Mamiya 6. But when it all works out, the thing is very portable, quiet and has absolutely fantastic optics. A light table, loupe and dev'd Velvia 50 will bear this out.<br>

If you buy it, enjoy it!<br>

<br /></p>

<p>I suspect a loading fault, which sounds obvious. But is it on the part of the back, or the user? Get a sacrificial roll, and test how to load, advance, and finish off a roll with the Mamiya AF systems. Then, re-wind it and test again.<br>

And again.<br>

Coming from 35mm, I was a bit perplexed, but after about 10 rolls, got to know all the sounds one should expect, and encountered a few one shouldn't.</p>

<p>All things being equal, if it's not $2,249.00 (as of February 3rd, 2010) what differences might it have versus it's Voigtlander (fraternal) twin?</p>

<p>It sounds like you have definitely have the Mamiya M645 Pro 200mm APO f/2.8<br>

<br /> I use a Fotodiox adapter, non-chipped, that I got from them directly. It was about $100 and took a few days to arrive. Try that before you get into more expensive options, is my opinion. You can probably sell the Fotodiox "downstream" if you like the APO and how it works with Canon EF mounts, and decide that something more expensive is warranted (chipped, or Novoflex, or Mirex Tilt/Shift adapter, etc.)</p>

<p>Per the above - no, they are not cross-compatible at all.</p>

<p>My vote goes to the Fuji NPZ800 in 220 rolls. Pushable, good color for an 800 speed film. In fact, fast films today are just fantastic, compared to 10 or 15 years ago.</p>

<p>I agree with the assessment, that 220 will often require a separate back for certain cameras, and also 24 (32 @ 645) can be a lot to shoot unless you're really clicking a lot in a short amount of time.<br>

Thus 120 is a good standard, if the manufacturer has to choose.<br>

Also, I find rolls of 220 end up with a generous bend in the middle, from the lab, "due to length" and the "facilities" they have.<br>

My guess is they hang it at the halfway point, somewhere? Scanning that inevitable kinked frame isn't fun.</p>

<p>It would be a funky "novelty" to own, but frankly the Mamiya 7 variants are much more versatile, if 6x7 rangefinding is you thing. <br /> <br /> If you were to buy "used, in good condition" you could get an M7ii with nearly the same viewpoint, at the same (or lower) price point. And then add lenses later. I have an M6 and lenses (G series) are silly sharp, I would imagine the M7 (N series) are as good if not better. Someday I hope to find out.<br /> That being said, a Bessa III would be nice to have no matter what. A lot of things would be "nice to have" ;-)</p>

<p>The SQ-A sounds like the preferred choice if you're on a budget. I don't know the availability of repairs where you live, and Bronica has been "out of the game" now for years, but they don't seem to be particularly complex cameras.</p>

<p>Film isn't going to disappear.<br>

The availability of, and ease of local quality processing has certainly shrunk, but I think within certain "redoubts" like large cities, there will still be a market to service.<br>

For my own personal work, I've shoot more film in the past two years, than I have since the late 90's as a student photojournalist.</p>

<p>That M7ii volcano image, is that a drum scan? The flatness, overall tone - is fantastic. It looks very very well optimized for web viewing, too. Kudos.</p>

<p>Not to be churlish, but you have, of course, verified the flash unit, plus x-synch cable, work on other cameras, thus isolating the problem to the M7ii body?</p>

<p>Dust-Off in a can, Ilford Anti-Staticum (orange) cloth, and Digital ICE on your scanner mechanism.<br>

Failing that, tons of clone + healing brush in PS. <br /> <br /> Dust sucks, for scanning.<br>

Enjoy the M6. You know, the 50mm G-Series lens is...as close to perfect as it gets.<br>

<br /> I wish it had more diaphragm blades, though. Minor quibble.</p>

<p>Given that many of the M645 lenses are frankly quite inexpensive used, it might just be worth your while to pick some up?<br /> <br /> Those using Mamiya AFD variant cameras with Aptus 75 backs and newer "D" lenses - that's serious coin right there. I don't know if the user base will get you much input in short order.<br>

<br /> M645 stuff is cheap...the 150mm f/2.8 for M645 is about $265 shipped, from KEH. Compare that to the new "D" lens price!</p>

<p>I have a 645 AF - the negs are "large" but not "huge". Personally, I find the metering is pretty good, even on challenging transparency film. I got used to the overwrought metering on DSLRs in which you have to think like they think, but the 645 AF just gets it right most of the time with minimal fuss.<br>

Anyway, if you really want "resolution" above all else - size, weight, etc. then go for the Pentax 67. I haven't used one but 6x7 seems luxurious to me.</p>

<p>I have never used a Pentax 67, but have fiddled with them in stores. Big & beefy. Seemingly robust.<br>

I have used a Mamiya 6 (precursor to the 7/7II) extensively, and it is the cat's meow, if you indeed like shooting 6x6. Then lenses are silly sharp, resistant to flare, and the whole thing (even unfolded, like a Mamiya 7 in terms of size) is still quite small and light.<br>

I personally feel the most rewarding stuff I've done in the past two years, is overwhelmingly taken with the M6. I don't use the 150 lens much - focussing is difficult, for me. The 75 and 50mm are much easier.<br>

Another stab at logic: you're already taking one SLR, and a very capable one at that. Try the rangefinder, loaded with 220 film if you can source it. It goes without saying: test, develop, test, develop before you leave for your portrait project.<br>

Good luck, it sounds like a rewarding experience awaits you.</p>

<p>Cory, may I ask what roughly is your price range?<br>

<br /> Most Mamiya MF lenses are dirt cheap, and all can be used on both the manual focus as well as auto focus bodies.<br>

The original AF bodies are not that expensive, and include many conveniences such as AE metering, film advance, LCD both inside the viewfinder as well as a top panel. Plus, they have custom functions you can set. The downside is that you can't "break down" the camera body - it's all integrated so the weight you get...is the weight you get ;-)<br>

AFD and AFDII/II variants are a bit more pricey.<br>

An AF standard lens for the Mamiya isn't that expensive either - perhaps you could look at a Mamiya AF "kit" from KEH.</p>