c._f.

<p><a href="http://www.alkit.com/">http://www.alkit.com/</a><br>

Adam</p>

<p>Shane,<br>

My advise, as probably many others' would be is knowing your equipment and how far can you push your camera w/o sacrificing quality of the image yet providing a <strong>good</strong> result. Then, talk to B&G and explain to them pros/cons of one vs another; also speak with who ever is performing the ceremony - some have preferences, others don't. Room (strobe) lights, depends on the crowd, could be a hassle b/c of the placements but will be a good addition to your lighting. On camera flash, some will say is disturbing when pops into you, so perhaps bouncing it up and behind you might do the trick.<br>

My self, at weddings, I use two roomlights for procession, when B&G are at the front, it is my assistant's light and my camera's. Very few times I was asked to eliminate flash photo by clergy at which point I called over B&G and whoever else is paying for it along to the clergy to discuss the pros and cons, thus all party were aware and this eliminated complaints later on. On top of that I know how far I can be push my equipment :)<br>

Good Luck<br>

Adam</p>

<p>Hi Deb,<br>

I agree with Jim on going to a store and holing the camera in your hands. It doesn't even have to be a camera store, most electronics stores sell SLRs.<br>

As confused as you are about choosing the camera and reading everyone's advice, another <strong>great source</strong> would be calling stores like Adorama, BH, FocusCamera and speaking with their camera salesmen. I've done that in the past with previous purchases, my students have done that and it makes no difference on the brand that you prefer, the staff is knowledgeable and will answer your questions.<br>

Good Luck and welcome to wonderful world of SLRs :)<br>

Adam</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Mike, couldn't agree with you more on buying/selling P&S.<br>

The only good thing about them is that they are smaller :)<br>

Adam</p>

<p>Actually had a G10, had to return it...<br>

On ISO 400, G10, does pretty good job with noise, anything above it is noticeable.<br>

But for what you need, I'd probably prefer an SLR over P/S. As Ryan and Brian said you can add variety of peripherals to it plus I think with an SLR (regardless of the brand) you have more control over your exposures then with P&S. G10 goes have majority of its controls at finger's but they aren't as comfortable as they seem.<br>

Alternatively, regardless what anyone says here, I believe BH and Adorama has 2 week return policy no Qs asked. Buy your items, compare them and return. Just confirm the return policy.<br>

Good Luck<br>

Adam</p>

<p>Recently upgraded to D90 from D50. I'm pretty happy about it!<br>

The <em>negative reviews </em> such as slow live mode focusing and video recording isn't of bestest quality doesn't really bother me b/c I prefer viewfinder and for video use a video-camera. The camera is a bit heavier compared to D50 but body is smaller. My exposure was also to Canon 5D Mark II and Nikon D200 so getting used to D90 was just a matter of few hrs.<br>

Few things I <strong>totaly</strong> love about this camera, the favorite button - I have a "My Menu" set to it so I can access few options & change shooting functions w/in seconds. Also love the comander mode for flash (D50 didn't have that).<br>

Depending on what you need in the camera, keep in mind that D90 doesn't have remote and flash PC sync on the other hand SB800 and SB900 do have them :).<br>

Good Luck</p>

<p>Brittany,<br>

I'm a fan of Vegas Pro and Adobe Premiere. After creating the <em>video</em> file, I resize it with Ashampoo Movie Shrink and Burn.<br>

Hope that helps. Good Luck</p>

<p>Elliot,<br>

Thank you for the site, very nice and very informative!</p>

<p>As was said, VIVID works best for me.<br>

Adam</p>

<p>I don't rely on histogram a lot because if camera sees light colors while you're subject is in the middle, you might get a good exposure of your subject but histogram will show you being blown out and same goes when you're in the dark areas. Similar idea is when you're shooting landscape and you have nice sunny sky, histogram will show you to be overexposed.<br>

As some one wrote here, read your image, not your equipment.<br>

Adam</p>

<p>Jim,<br>

In any Automode, (regardless of the camera brand) camera doesn't know what you're shooting and it only sees lights and darks (actually more then but you got the idea). Therefore when it sees DARKNESS and 2 white/colorful spots in the middle (people) it'll WANT to boost up your flash power and opposite goes for where it is light (i.e daylight) you're flash will be required less power. Thus your histogram and not just yours is pretty useless.<br>

Here's a quick tool that I teach my students for shooting manual<br>

I happened to have SB600 so the numbers are a bit more specific for you.</p>

<ol>

<li>Set the camera and flash to manual</li>

<li>Set your ISO to 800 (if it won't grain you out. If can't, then go to 400)</li>

<li>Set your flash to 1/8 power (you don't waste a lot of battery, your flash recycles faster and you can take the next picture faster). if ISO 800 is grain, then set the flash to 1/4 power with ISO 400 </li>

<li>Set your shutter 1/60-1/125 (my preferences iss pending what I'm shooting and what effect I want to get).</li>

<li>play with your f-stop b/n 5.6 to 11.</li>

<li>Meter and preset your white balance. If not available then set it to flash mode or daylight mode. Both are pretty good. (for me, I like to meter it but if I need to take the picture right here right now, I set it to flash WB).</li>

<li>As you're zooming in you open your aperture and as zoom out, you close it a bit.</li>

<li>And you have fun.</li>

<li>Oh yes, if you're tooo close and went to something like f11 or f16 and your shot is too bright, then bounce your flash and drop to something like f9 and see what happens</li>

</ol>

<p>Don't get me wrong about TTL, I do use Program, Aperture and Shutter modes all depending what I'm doing. But manual is manual and you can control what you need.<br>

I know some photographers that prefer to adjust flash power rather then aperture and I know some who'll adjust shutter speed instead. My reasoning behind this is that since you aren't shooting portrait but a party and need a quick-pic depth of field isn't something to concentrate. Also a <em>trade tool</em> is that when you take a picture and it looks under/over you know how to reajust it, tell your "subjects" that you'll take one more because one of them blinked - it makes you look more proffesional and knowledgable.<br>

Adam</p>