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c._f.

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Posts posted by c._f.

    Available Second Shooter (2nd shooter)

    in Wedding & Event

    Posted

    <p>Joel,<br>

    Few points.<br>

    #1 - if you <strong>really</strong> want to be a wedding photographer, you should start out as an assistant. Put the camera down, learn lighting, composition, exposure, WEDDING FLOW, etc etc etc<br>

    #2 - I do not know what or who your sister had but based on the <em>tone</em> in your thread, you're heading <strong>exactly</strong> the same direction as the photographer who shot your sister's wedding.<br>

    <em><strong>I agree with you 10000% that having a high end camera doesn't make a person pro.</strong> </em><br>

    So first step is ASSISTING and learning.<br>

    good luck<br>

    Adam</p>

    14-24 f/2.8G

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>Well, they did screw up few years ago with optics or w/e it was there... so now they decided to turn to people who actually know what they are doing :)<br>

    thanks for posting</p>

    <p>Adam</p>

    Help! D40 outperforms D90?

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <blockquote>

    <p>#3-D90 with 28-105 AFD (I know this is a soft lens and have focusing problem, but then its only $99 used): <a rel="nofollow" href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2562/4217331406_09e7eb069e_m.jpg" target="_blank">http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2562/4217331406_09e7eb069e_m.jpg</a></p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>What do you mean soft and focusing problem? I had that glass since lovely early 2000 and YET to have an issue with it in both focusing and sharpness.</p>

    <p>Adam</p>

     

    Nice intro to some CLS techniques from Joe McNally

    in Nikon

    Posted

     

    <blockquote>

    <p>Now all I need is three assistants and a beautiful model. Thanks for the link......good stuff!</p>

    </blockquote>

     

    <p><em>And GEAR...</em> If you watch some of the other ones, he is setting up around 10speedlytes. Don't get me wrong, I think very highly of him, love watching his stuff and reading his blog. But the AMOUNT of equipment the guy has is really AMAZING.</p>

    <p>Adam</p>

    Extremely Last Minute Help

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <p>Portraits, assuming they won't be moving( though we all know what happens when you <strong>ass</strong> ume), ISO 400-800, based on your camera, 1/30sec to get more ambient (tree and fireplace) in, flash/strobes to illuminate the subject and adjust aperture for optimal exposure. oh Tripod would be helpful :)<br>

    good luck<br>

    Adam</p>

    Photographers with Major Wedding Studios.

    in Wedding & Event

    Posted

    <p>For years, I had my own studio. Got sick of all of the admininistrative BS. Now I'm just freelancing and it is easier this way. Shoot the job, deliver the card and I'm done. On occasion do some studio work and at times book my own job. Shooting for studio is less money but also less BS. Shooting for my self is more money and also more BS.<br>

    Good Luck<br>

    Adam</p>

    Strobes & DOF for Bar Mitzvah Dancing

    in Wedding & Event

    Posted

    <p>Michael,</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>Dragging the shutter might not be the solution to have better lighting for dancing but maybe a second flash or room lights will help. Does that sound right?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Yep, something like that :). 1/15 is nice for portrait with waterfall in the background :)</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>Regarding using f2.8 for hora dancing - It would allow more light into the camera but the DOF on 2.8 would not be ideal and something like f4 or higher would be better.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>If you're too close to your subject you'll end up nice sharp point while everything else will be nice and blur. The <strong>problem</strong> is that the nice sharp point might be a nose while eyes will be out of focus or maybe it'll be the eye that is sharp, <strong>ONE EYE</strong> :)~<br>

    HOWEVER, If you're far enough it'll work. Use this, if you'd like, to calculate dof <a href="http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html/">http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html/</a></p>

    <p>good luck<br>

    Adam</p>

    <p> </p>

    Strobes & DOF for Bar Mitzvah Dancing

    in Wedding & Event

    Posted

    <p>I'd say 99.9% of my clientèle are orthodox Jews.</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>In order to use the strobes for dancing would I have to keep the camera on manual?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>No</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>I understand that I can setup my lights and meter before guests arrive but how can I insure that my light will be equal throughout the room?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>If you can set up to heads, do so - set them up in the middle of the room, or behind the head table facing away from each other, maybe bounce up and since you're shooting digital, see what you get. If you have a light meter, use it and see what you get where - generally, your background will be, <strong></strong> nicely lit.</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>Should I keep my camera on S mode and let me flash gauge the output independent of the strobes?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>I'm a manual shooter but will very the flash. Sometime will keep flash on manual and othertimes on ttl or A. If you don't know what your flash can do, yank a stofen with bounce card at 45-60*bounce, ttl+1 (or 1 2/3) iso 400 1/100sec f8. Start with that, and see what your foreground looks like.</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>I guess I am just nervous to shoot in manual. What aperture do you guys use for dancing? Do you use max sync shutter speed? How about ISO? Thanks for all your help.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Generally, I shoot at ISO400, 1/125sec, f/8. flash at 1/4power with stofen straight fwd OR if bounce then will set it to 1/4-1/2 power. I'll probably be going b/n f/5.6-11 to obtain correct exposure based on distance b/n me and the subjects. If my flash in TTL then it'll probably be +2/3ev if straight fwd center metering.</p>

     

    <blockquote>

    <p>1. Dragging the shutter seems to be great when you want to blur your background and keep your subject sharp in the center. In my situation I want my main subject as well as the people dancing in the background to be in focus. Is that possible with dragging the shutter?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>A lot of the time one of the guests will present with juggling fire or something to that degree. This is when I'll drag the shutter. I'll take few shots at my regular settings (above) and then will drag it by 2-3 stops while compensating with f/stops to maintain correct exposure.</p>

     

    <blockquote>

    <p>2. One reply stated that I would need a 2.8 lens to to allow more light into my camera but wouldn't using 2.8 during a dance set blur the subjects a few feet? I would think I would need more depth of field so adding more light would be the only way.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>I wouldn't shoot dancing at f/2.8. First of all, optimum sharpness of lenses is about 2-3 stops down from widest aperture & I like seeing reflection in the eyes (crispy images). #2 by shooting wide open UNLESS I'm far enough to actually get what I need to be in focus (face) I won't shoot at 2.8 PLUS during dancing, people are continuously moving. I'd shoot few portraits at such apertures, those rings shots, flowers, details but <strong>not</strong> dancing.</p>

    <p>Good Luck<br>

    Adam</p>

    <p> </p>

    Is this the death of Wedding Photography?

    in Wedding & Event

    Posted

    <p>Rick,<br>

    People will always get married and will always want their memories captured. However, <strong>the way</strong> it'll happen is a different story. About 10yrs ago, during good old film days, photography wasn't taken as lightly as it is today. Now for under $3000 one could get a dslr, a relatively decent lens, a flash and call him/her self a wedding photographer, google few photoshop tricks and UNDER charge what real photographers do charge. These are the people, in my opinion, who give wedding photographers a very bad reputation.<br>

    Clients are also getting, I don't want to say smarter, but in a sense lazy. With film, they kind of understood that it has to be developed in the lab and that takes time, with digital, b/c the way some photographers present their skill, clients see these photos less of an artwork and thus expect thousands of pictures for a wedding.<br>

    Terminology has also changed. With digital you have folks calling them selves pure photojournalists who don't use lights, only natural, yada yada yada. Last I checked, when you set your flash on the camera and have your assistant either light up foreground or background or don't even use an assistant, it is called candids. But photojournalism sounds <em>exotic</em> thus clients byte into it.<br>

    There's no question that business has changed in the last 10yrs. And those folks who can't adapt (unfortunately) are hurting. But wedding photography will not die out as long as there are weddings.</p>

    <p>Adam</p>

    In Black & White...

    in Wedding & Event

    Posted

    <blockquote>

    <p>What do you all think? What is it about B&W images?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Agree.<br>

    B/W are classics. And just like anything, one can be obtain more modern STUFF (camera, car2009chevy, music) but will probably nonethless appreciate classics (posing/lighting/b&w, 1950chevy, bach).<br>

    :)</p>

    <p>Adam</p>

     

    Natural light, Flash, Reflector?

    in Wedding & Event

    Posted

    <blockquote>

    <p>I use flash when I need to balance subject exposure with backgrounds, or vice versa. I also use flash at a very low power to help even out blotchy ambient light--hopefully very subtle fill (it also helps keep green casts from grass off skin and keeps color balance closer to daylight)</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Plus you get to accent the couple and separate THEM from gorgeous natural light that is <strong>FLAT</strong><br>

    <strong><br /> </strong></p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>99.99983% natural light with couple shots</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>so your lighting is flat as a board? Where is the glamor in that? :)</p>

    <p>Adam</p>

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