patrick_drennon
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Posts posted by patrick_drennon
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I've had an SS120 for over a year. I was not real thrilled until some software
updates came out. Silverfast v.5.5 on a Mac in OS 9 is wonderful. It is clearly
outclassed by v.6 on OSX. I love it. It has been flawless for me and is
wonderful on transparencies (no surprise) AND color and B&W negs
(somewhat surprising). It has software ICE which works O.K. but it slows down
an already slow process so I don't use it much.
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Hard to add to the quality responses you've gotten.
I've turned into kind of a collector but I tend to use all of the collection (I dearly
love the build quality of MF cameras).
I have a P67 system that includes a P67 MLU and a P67II. I also have a Fuji
GX680III. I bought a Fuji GA645Zi in 1998 and have put well over 100 rolls
through it in that time. I use it as a sort of large point and shoot and it is
wonderfully suited to that. All things considered (number of shots, ease of
loading, weight, handling ease, features, AF performance, etc.) my
experience has been that there is no comparison. The big negative IS a 270%
improvement and that camera makes it a painless transition as long as you
can live within its limits (I'm sure you've checked the threads on it). I do use
the other systems as much but for different things, I really don't prefer any one
over the other overall (my way of saying you might consider keeping your
6X7).
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Sounds like you plugged into the FP terminal. There is no shutter
setting that would have resulted in a totally thin negative (I
assume the frame edge data is of proper density).
Any slower and you would have an ambient interference an a
denser negative. Shutter speeds faster than 1/30 would have a
properly exposed focal plane 'strip' on each frame. I have made
the FP mistake in the past and had the effect you describe.
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I am not trying to sway you from the Nikon but will offer my
experience with the Polaroid Sprintscan 120.
It has been a very good performer on everything since I installed
Silverfast v 5.5. Prior to that I was very disappointed in its
performance on both color and B&W negs.
With the new software it's an excellent performer. I've never used
ICE but I've not had any particular problems in its absence (I
haven't wished I had it).
Just wanted to offer an alternative (not opposing) point of view.
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I have the lens. It is difficult to use but creates outstanding
results when used properly. I try to stay @ f/8 or smaller. I have
seen the chromatic behavior but can work around it, I love the
lens. It is a very good cost/performance ratio performer.
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This is GREAT Steve. I'm very pleased to see that you're going to
continue as administrator, whether we say it or not, we do
appreciate your hard work.
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A generation from now, if anyone reads this thread, they will
marvel at us.
As long as there is an economic need (and there will ALWAYS
be) for imaging then dollars will be spent in improving the
quality, convenience and efficiency of producing those images.
There is a highly disproportionate spend on the digital side. The
ability to use the net to transfer images is too important (not
necessarily view, but transport). This lends itself uniquely to an
efficiency equation.
Where the MONEY is spent FOR images, art directors, clients
and photogrphers will head in the direction of the cheapest,
most efficient way to conduct this business. In the long run, film
cannot possibly compete as development proceeds in digital. I,
personally, am so over-equipped in analog equipment that my
heart wishes film would win this 'battle'. The fact is it will not. All
we can hope is that in the long run, the manufacturers will
continue to provide emulsions for those of us (todays generation
of photography buffs) who are irreversibly hooked on analog
photography. The next generation (my son's) will use digital
primarily and analog to fill in. In 1974 I was in the last freshman
engineering class required to learn the slide rule. Believe it or
not there was a similar (if not as heated) debate over the
wisdom of that change.
Years from now, the only analog work being done will either be
for specialized purposes or for some esthetic preference the
researchers and Adobe developers haven't figured out how to
duplicate digitally.
Economics will dictate the outcome of this debate and we will
lose.
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My first MF was a Mamiya M645 (1982). I had wanted a Pentax
6X7 at the time but couldn't afford it. Couldn't even think about
Hasselblad. 15 years later, nothing wrong with the Mamiya, I got
a P67 MLU for christmas. Love at first sight (and use). I was able
to afford additions like 45 f/4, 165 LS, and the 600 f/4. I added a
P67II a couple of years ago.
<p>
I bought a Fuji GX680III 1 1/2 years ago. What a system! Very
well thought out and flexible (I seem to have become a collector).
The Fuji has fabulous optics, movements and motor drive with
multi-format capability. Should have caused me to at least
partially sell off my Pentax system.
<p>
My go-to camera is still the P67. I agree with everyone that feels
a comfort with it in their hands but it goes beyond that. It's my
favorite because of what I can do with it. I can produce the
images I WANT faster, easier and with greater confidence than
with any other camera I own. I have a huge respect for the
flexibility of the Fuji but my affection is for the Pentax.
<p>
It has a hook that is hard to describe. I read constantly about its
unsuitability in the studio, yet I've never had any struggles with it
and love the results. You can't handhold it, yet I do all the time
with no problems. I fully understand those that buy one and then
sell it later, but when I downsize my equipment the P67's will be
the last to go.
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This probably too easy but my first MF was an M645 and I got
frustrated with it once until I remembered I'd locked the shutter
release. The front shutter release button (the one an L grip
actuates) has a locking ring with a red and white dot, make sure
the white dot is aligned with the mark, if it is the shutter is
unlocked. If that doesn't work the last ditch would be to remove
and then replace the battery.
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Roberto, I'm one of the promoters of the GX680 idea. You are
correct in assuming it is more handholdable than an LF but is
not ideally suited to that mode.
I also have P67II and an MLU P67 w/ 45, 105, 165LS and 600. It
is my favorite system due to my experience and comfort with it
and I very much second what you appear to have decided to do. If
you don't need front movements I think the camera is unbeatable
for your application. Just an opinion (my GX 680 has yet to leave
the studio in 1 1/2 years).
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Petr hit the nail on the head. If you want view camera power (80%
of movement NEEDS) and MF SLR speed and portability the Fuji
is the answer. It is slightly larger than the RZ/RB cameras and
MUCH more powerful. Multi-format, full front standard
movements and a built in motor drive. Fabulous Fujinon optics
as a bonus. It is heavy and bulky for a medium format but not
horrible.
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If you're need is limited to A4 size (image area +/-7.5 X 10.2) in
an affordable machine, an Olympus P-400 dye-sub is
impossible to beat with ink-jet. Each print costs about $2. I also
have an Epson 2000P, very useful for good results in larger print
sizes, but for A4 it can't remotely compete with the Olympus.
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A side by side comparison of the best I can do with an Epson
2000 and the P-400 is won EASILY by the Olympus. I just wish I
could do larger than 7 1/2"X10 1/4" prints.
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I have a Polaroid Sprintscan 120. When I need (or want) 130 mb
files it is the only way to go. It is very good at auto focussing and
produces remarkably sharp/detailed images........but.......I also
have an older Agfa Duoscan that is probably little different from
the output of the 2450.
There is little competition in the $/output ratio (PARTICULARLY
for web publishing). Get a 2450, then, if you absolutely need the
big files, have it done. It simply doesn't come up that often. The
2450 (or similar) will easily satisfy the 80/20 rule (in this case
80% of everything you need for 20% of the cost).
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There is no limitation I'm aware of on disengaging the metered
prism with a lens mounted (or unmounted). I've done both often
with no ill affect. If you do it and you don't unmount and then
remount the lens it will not meter. I've heard of the chain breaking
and it seems to me there is a cause, I just can't remember what
it is.
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At the risk of repeating. Digital WILL replace analog in a broad
sense. Computer performance and digital back/body
performance WILL become more cost and performance effective
than film. The developers will figure out what is needed and
they'll have the flexibility to provide it. When the res:cost ratio of a
digital solution exceeds that of analog even consumers will
switch (already happening), much less pros. When a wedding
photographer is capable of putting his sale package together
and walking out while his dye sub printer automatically pukes it
out COMPLETE on the same day as the wedding at half the cost
and hours, he'll switch.
Everything in our world is driven by economics. To some it will be
direct cost, to others it will be the economics of their time. But I
find it a bit humorous to debate its occurence since it's
inevitable. The debate will eventually center around how all of
this will affect those of us who still love the elegance of the
analog solution. How many emulsions and/or formats will we
lose. And that's already begun. I have several friends who are
still pissed at Kodak for some of the changes they've made over
the last three years. I doubt those changes were due to a digital
influence, they were likely due to drops in the demand for those
products. Never the less digital will cause the same adjustment.
We can also debate the archival suitability issue, but I'm cofident
that won't have an ounce of effect on the ultimate outcome. I
agree with those who claim a superior preservability of analog
images but Fuji will still drop NHGII 120 if digital causes a drop
in its sales below the economic threshold.
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Same here, I've used lockup just playing around in studio and
never had that happen on a P67. I have a 67II also but I've never
tried it w/ MLU. I don't ever use MLU w/ studio strobe, it's not
anything religious I've just never seen the need.
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I've had the same problem intermittently for 20 years and it has
occurred with every camera I own.
<p>
I used to keep a supply of sync cords because they seemed to
be so fragile. I have a coiled chord (don't know mfg.) that's been
flawless for the last 12 years on 2 different Fujis, 2 P67's, a
Mamiya 645 and a view camera.
<p>
I'm NOT a sync cord expert and I don't know this for a fact by any
means but I suspect the problem is with the cord(s).
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I use P67's and a Fuji GX680III. I chose a Fuji GA645Zi for my
flexible, lightweight alternative. I've been immensely impressed
with the little camera. Some have claimed AF problems, I've had
none that weren't my fault. Others have had film winding issues,
again I've had none. It does NOT have TTL flash capabilties
though. Just a suggestion.
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Thanks Scott, great info.
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35mm & MF only - Beseler 23 CII. Then Omega 67's
35mm, MF & 4X5 - Omega DV &/or DVI. Beseler makes one, I've
just never seen it. I've been in labs w/ multiple varieties of
Omega D's.
Lenses are tougher. I have one each Schneider (50, 2.8),
Rodenstock (APO 80, 4) and Nikkor (135, 5.6). I don't know which
one is most common, I've seen about the same number of them.
No difference in quality in my opinion w/ Nikkor being best bang
for buck (that's an opinion, not necessarily fact).
These are the most COMMON (i.e popular). I will not start a
flame war over the comparitive merits.
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I bought a C220 about 3 months ago. I already owned a P67 &
P67II. I'm quite impressed with the little TLR.......but. You'll likely
hate it for macro or any other work where the SLR has a clear
advantage. By the way, the finder on the 67II is about 1 1/2 to 2
stops brighter than the P67.
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You'll use digital immediately, it WILL be fun, you'll shoot alot, get
better, want more, THEN move on and include MF. Huge
point........have FUN. Then you too will write run-on sentences.
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The scanner comes with clamp in, glassless carriers that
preclude scanning the edge. If your camera imprints data there it
will not show up.
The default for the software is to allow auto focus and it is
continuous. The overall flatness is very good so there is no
distortion and you get incredible detail (including more grain
image than I had ever seen prior) across the entire scan. The
software will also allow you to manually focus.
The only drawback for me is a tendency to be very sensitive to
dust. Even when I think I'm working with a perfectly clean
negative I'm always proven wrong but it's a small price to pay.
Admin Issue- 35mm Pentax Posts
in Medium Format
Posted
Just my two cents worth. I don't personally have a problem with it. These users
are sometimes lost as to what to do and are inherently inefficient with attempts
at solutions. The traffic level on this forum is such that it isn't really a problem
(at its current level). It could become a problem as the forum grows.
Fact is there are some great minds and levels of expertise posting on this
sight, seems a shame to prevent access to that expertise to someone who
might not know where else to go.