cametacamera

<p>try a few different things...<br>

wait about 7 seconds, not 15, then pull and slap onto your new paper.<br>

Also, make sure you are slapping the propper side onto your new paper...<br>

You can also try a transfer underwater. That's right, roll and peel underwater... It doesn't need to be warm or boiling like an emulsion lift.<br>

Your image will have a large portion that is black due to the camera that it is in. This might be affecting your peeling.<br>

Have fun!</p>

<p>wow, cheer up JDM.<br>

If anyone wants an explanation of T, time, and B, bulb, (or anything from a post of mine for that matter) just ask. This is a forum, not a one-way opinion rant.<br>

Don't berate an attempt to teach the noobs, especially in the proper forum.</p>

<p>Hello fellow time-lapser.<br /> I use my Canon SLR to make my time lapse movies too. I use a PC or a Mac, whatever is closer at the time... With a PC I use the Movie Maker software(supplied with my Dell) and with my Mac I use iMovie(supplied with all Macs,) but the technique is similar.<br /> First, use import to input all your individual frames into your software. You can then drag or move the frames into the timeline. You can specify the duration of the frames at that point. You might have to type directly into the "duration" field. I think PC has a minimum of .1sec and Mac is minimum of 0:00:03(this is frame count) which is ultimately the same... or very close. If it asks you for a transition length, choose 0, or none, that way each frame slammed up against the next.<br /> Another technique... before I figured out how to make a short duration I used the 1 second duration, built the movie then used effects once, twice, or more times to speed up the movie. Unfortunately it needs to render the entire movie each time you run an effect and this compresses your movie each time.<br /> The tricky part is matching/combining frame durations in your movie/software with frame durations of the platforms used to view. Some video experience would help in this department.<br>

With some practice, you'll get some great stuff. See some of mine on my youtube account:<br>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/photophile">www.youtube.com/photophile</a><br>

All shot on a 20D or 30D with the TC-80N3 trigger. That little piece lets you get out into the field instead of being connected to your computer.<br>

Have fun!</p>

 

<p>Yes, JDM... B & T settings...stand for "BULB" and "TIME" lets YOU control timing.<br>

Don't use that silly "fireworks" protocol on your P&S</p>

<p>Our Independence Day is a time to celebrate by lighting fireworks. Here is what you need to capute that perfect shot:<br>

A camera capable of timed long shutter speeds(something longer than 1 sec.,) or something with a "B" or "T" setting. With B and T, you'll also probably want a cable release so you can control the timing without touching the camera.<br>

A tripod, sandbag, or friend who will keep the camera steady while you shoot.<br>

Patience, or lots of film or memory.<br>

Last, but not least, I like a nice background... something that shows where you are.<br>

If you get something good... let's see it! <del>Post result here</del>.</p>

<hr>

<i><b>Moderator's note:</b> There will be plenty of fireworks threads on photo.net's No Words Forum and elsewhere. Those will be the best places to post photos of your weekend photos. On the Beginner Forum, let's stick to only photos that illustrate and explain techniques beginners can put to use this weekend, not just show and tell pix. -- Thx.</i>

<p>I'm not talking brand here 'cause I don't want to open up that old can of worms...<br>

Are you going point and shoot, prosumer super-zoom, SLR, waterproof/tough, micro 4/3rds, Film?<br>

Of course these aren't all the choices and there are no wrong answers.</p>

<p>The old Olympus Pen had a native portrait format. To get landscape you would have to tilt the camera 90 degrees in either direction. The thing that makes it most "Pen" like is that the sensor is 1/2 as big... just like a Pen. Even though I am not a fan of 4/3rds I am looking forward to handling one. The new design will be the wave of the future: Lens, LCD... a few controls, what else do you need?</p>

<p>Sounds strange, but it is true...<br>

In "portrait" exposure mode, your camera will try to use the largest aperture available so that it will isolate your subject via focus/DOF.<br>

In "sports" exposure mode, your camera will try to use the fastest shutter speed so that action is frozen and motion blur is kept to a minimum.<br>

Why are they the same? If one methods tries to use the largest possible aperture, then it will automatically pick the fastest appropriate shutter speed. Conversely, if the exposure mode wants to choose the fastest shutter speed it will automatically pick the largest appropriate aperture.<br>

You're better off experimenting with AV/TV or A/S or better yet, M.<br>

Have Fun!</p>

<p>Yes, you heard it here first. With the advent of the micro 4/3rds system it will not be long before we just slap a monitor at the end of a lens. Goodbye mirrors, hello LCD. How long will it take?</p>

<p>IMO speed is a moot point for still capture... however it will become important again when cameras start coming with HD video capture. Buy the minimum you need... it WILL be cheaper next week when you need more.<br>

Have fun!</p>

<p>Two things are weird here:<br>

A) the line is in the exact same spot in each photo<br>

B) the line has different color properties depending on the background color in the photo. In light areas it is white/light and in dark areas it is green.<br>

To me, this suggests a problem in production of the actual film or film cartridge. The rollers would not be this consistent and would repeat the problem on a single frame.<br>

If the problem is occuring in the camera, the mirror might be the culprit. A light leak would not be this consistent.<br>

Last an final analysis... maybe this was x-rayed during shipment.<br>

To check WHEN this happened, lightly peel back a border edge by the line, if you see the line under the frame, then the problem occured before you placed the film in the camera. If not it is something native to that camera.</p>

<p>yes, those two photos are only to illustrate the differences between a full and a half sun on the two different days... but, as J. Dainis suggests, this is really how fast NYC traffic moves... it doesn't.</p>

<p>yes, please post your results. Go, go, go! this is going to be fun.</p>

<p>You'll have two chances to get it right.<br>

Time: Sunset, May 30th or July 12th<br>

Place: Manhattan<br>

Because of the slanted nature of the island of Manhattan, or the island currently known as New York City, there are two points in time surrounding the summer solstice where the sun will set exactly in the center of cross street blocks. Get your cameras ready!<br>

here is a great detailed article: http://www.haydenplanetarium.org/resources/starstruck/manhattanhenge/</p>

<p>Canon EOS 50mm f1.4 USM was the biggest money sucker I ever purchased. It kept on breaking with use that I would not consider rough.<br>

I have since switched over to a EOS 50mm F1.8 1st version with the metal mount. I've been shooting with that for about 5 trouble-free years. The 1st version is FAR superior to the subsequent plastic mount versions. The loss of USM and the 1/2 stop loss is not an issue IMO.</p>

<p>Mine was the fold-out project in the center of a Ranger Rick magazine. It was a pinhole camera that used 110 cartridges.</p>

<p>[O]</p>

 

<p>I went(bought) digital with the Canon 10D. I already owned EOS lenses so it was an easy decision.<br>

Film costs were cutting too deeply into my sales.</p>

<p>not telling<br>

;~]</p>

<p>and why?</p>

<p>This is usually a special order item. Find a local camera store and give them some business. They need it. Chances are they will get it as soon as the "big boys."</p>

<p>Or is that a view camera mounted on a flatbed...?</p>

<p>How about this one?<br>

Use any lens and a flatbed scanner. You now have a digital camera with SUPER-OOBER resolution!<br>

You have to find a way to keep the lens steady during scanning and something to keep the stray light out of your image. Large format lenses work great because the image circle is so big.<br>

Have fun... I did</p>

<p>Here's what will happen:<br>

Your focal length will increase. The longer the extension the more telephoto your image will look.<br>

Your exposure time will increase. The longer the extension the more you need to increase the expose time.<br>

These extenders will not help with sharpness, only the size of the hole will help with that. The smaller the hole the sharper the image.<br>

Have Fun!</p>

 

<p>Sorry, this will not work. You need to find what is called "pack film." It is getting harder to find by polaroid considering it is not currently manufactured. You can also use Fuji pack film that is still available. If you REALLY want polaroid film, try www.polapremium.com<br>

Have fun!</p>