mike_oflaherty

<p>Never did own one, wanted one of the EOS 1's had to settle for a A2E and a A2 and loved them both. Loved shooting slides and couldn't wait to see the results of a hard days work. However the learning curve cost was killing me. Done get me wrong loved the the results when it did work just not the $100 leasons you take trying out a new techique. Still have the A2E haven't used it in a while but will never get rid of the old girl. I'm now over on the "Dark Side" and enjoying the quick results and lower costs.</p>

<p>Thanks Bob,<br>

It was me misunderstanding long exposure and high noise settings thought they were the same. You live and learn thanks again. Gave a test run goes like stink for 5DII.</p>

<p>Call me stupid but how do you get the burst rates that they claim? I'm using a San Disk Extreme 4cf 8g Card and getting about 9-10 frames in any mode(Raw, L etc). Hyperdrive is on AF and IS is off. So is it me doing something wrong or missing a setting or is it back into the box to the shop. Any input tips or tricks?</p>

<p>Regards to a visa no it's not required. However you do need a passport, enhanced drivers or a nexus card to enter the states. As Dave said get your all your electronic (cameras laptops etc)gear regisard at customs prior to going down. The biggest problem you'll have is when you come back it that they'll want the GST or any exise tax on anythig you bought.</p>

<p>Just a quick question about the color in post production. What are you using to calibrate the monitor? If nothing I would start there instead of blaming the cameras. You can pic up a cheap color calibrating tool from most camera shops for $100.</p>

<p>Sorry about the delay reguards to IS on or off. 200 is failry fast 400 better. In most cases from my experience the only time you would turn it off is when you mounted on a tripod. Reason being the lens is the IS is try ing to compensait for nothing there so you'll get a little blur. Trust me on this one I've done the deed. A calble release is another good thing to have in your bag of tricks, even when on tripod you can shake the works by depressing the button thus the cable release. Glad to have been helpful.</p>

<p>Kevin, as most of us do learn stuff the hard way, I was in your boat once. Has nothing to do with the programs you are using it has to do with your monitor. It seems to me with your description you gave your monitor is out of calibration, a calibration tool is what you need. This link will give you the info you need. http://spyder.datacolor.com/ It costs about 100$ works great. I have found that once you are set up your monitor and you go to print in the advanced settings theres usually a box ICM select that and it will grab your monitors settings. Seem to work for me screen and print look the same. It's a worthy investment otherwise you may ruin your pic's for no reason ajusting and tweeking while all the time your monitor was out of calibration. Hope this helps.</p>

<p>I purchased a used Canon Angle finder B for under 100$ works great on my 5DII and fits my A2E perfectly. I had to purchase a kit from Canon for the C version (the difrent size adapters) to fit the Digtial. It' a worthy investment makes tripod work a lot easier.</p>

<p>Hey Ed thanks for the heads up. Just gave it a try and like you said a little slow but does work. I guess what everyone wants is instant continuous focus like most video cams. However after looking at many of my relatives home movies even that doesn't work that well either. Thanks again Ed I might of figured it out later than sooner.</p>

<p>Mac or PC? If Mac don't know of any good programs, if Pc they offer alot more video convetion programs than Mac. Dvix a Pc program has just added h264 support to it's latest software. Hope it helps.</p>

<p>Hello, from what I have read you can turn off your NR on the camera and do it in post production using supplied software (DFP latest version). However this is only possiable if you are shooting RAW not JPG .</p>

<p>A cable release has helped me a great deal. Also the mirror lockup helps keep it steady on the tripod.</p>

<p>Downloaded the picture to have a better look. Quick couple of questions, Was the IS on or off? Were you using a tripod or mono or shooting freehand? If shooting freehand were you squating, kneeling or sitting. What it seems to me is that you had a little bit of movement when you pressed the release. Not a bad picture over all if kept as a 4X6, however get your subjects attention to look at you not at others taking pics. Take your time get it right and keep it steady via tripod or anything solid, your capturing a moment in time that will never happen again. A good picture is worth a thousand words, a bad one is just a picture. Hopes this helps, I've shot a lot of crap because of being in a hurry or not having the right equipment on hand, a hard lesson learn.</p>

<p>My first Canon was a Rebel film camera, I think it came with 35-80mm 4.5/5.6 lens. When I had a little more cash I bought 80-200 4.5/5.6 lens. I learned the basics shooting black&white, slide film, fireworks, night shots etc. Evenutally upgraded to a EOS A2E and A2 with a 28-135 3.5/5.6 IS and a 70-300 4.5/5.6 IS and a 560EZ flash I think. The basics you learn on one apply to the other however you have more options on the upgrade. The leasons learned appy to all cameras it's just cheaper to learn on a DSLR than paying developemant costs of film. My first DSLR was a Rebel XTi and the learning curve started again. I have since upgraded to a 5D2 with 580EX mk2 flash and my old lenses from my A2 days. The same applies to the original camera as with the DSLR just diffrent features and control. Learn the basics and when you find you need more control upgrade. Most important get a calibrater for you monitor like a Spyder Express or whatever for your pictures that you review on your PC can be out of whack. Now go forth and take lots of pictures.</p>

<p>Are you familuar with depth of feild. If you are shooting wide open @1.4 you df is going to be shallow before and after the subject. Close it down to f8 or smaller to bring more into focus.</p>

<p>Are you using a tripod? If you are turn it off you do not require it since the pod will keep your camera stable.</p>

<p>Is it that the pictures do not look right on the reveiw on the camera? Or is it that they look funny on the computer. If it's the latter you'll have to colour correct your monitor. A calibration tool for the Monitor is around 100$ and works great. Hope this helps.</p>