kurt_driver

<p>Count me as another T90 owner. I particularly favour the arrangement of the buttons, easily controlled with a couple of fingers. Three frames a second is still fast in my book, add in the widely available lenses, and none of the current models compares, in my estimation. I don't need autofocus, either, maybe if I shot basketball games, but I don't. </p>

<p>Why do you specify SLRs? Cambo and others make better cameras than any of the digital models. For making pictures, that is<br>

http://www.cambo.com/Html/products_photo/set01/english/internet/CGISearch.exe/Search?MULTIVALUE=1&MAXITEM=20&IF1=articlename&IO1=IN&IV1=searchtext&IF2=shortdescription&IO2=IN&IV2=searchtext&searchtext=4x5&PGNR=1</p>

<p>Paul, you saved some money for tanks, reels, etc, right? The dark side awaits you.<br>

Edit: Another suggestion, find an old 120 folder. My Belfoca has a sharp lens, shoots, either 6x6 or 6x9, and fits in my shirt pocket. And 26 bucks!</p>

<p>You need someone who reads russian. There's a russian cuisine restaurant in your area?</p>

<p>There are a lot of films available. Buy a few different types and shoot em all, and decide for yourself. Why shoot all B&W with one film? All colour with one film? Neither seems right. Films are made to be different, For weddings you pick one film, for high saturation you pick another, for architechure you pick a third. Or whatever. I prefer for colour Ektar to Velvia for most purposes, but when I need high saturation I call in the Velvia, (I'm not concerned with print vs slide).</p>

<p>I recently got a 50's folder, a Belfoca, for $25, and this morning looked at some negatives from a test roll, and I was impressed, sharp images. So, naturally I just took it on a photowalk. Can you get 127 film regularly? And in a wide variety of films? That is a nice shot</p>

<p>"Tell you're dad he's a great guy. Take him out for a beer; he gave, didn't sell, it to you!"<br>

I'll second that, you know its' funny that recently people who have gone digital have given recently given me a bunch of film stuff, tanks, reels, and gels. Hooray for digital! Buy your dad a couple, I'd say.</p>

<p>You took a photography class, can't the instructer suggest a few places? Or as Bob Sunley suggested, photo shops probably sell film or can recommend places to you. Is there a photography club in your area? Maybe some of the members can help you. Here in ou mid-sized city there are several places selling film, I can't imagine its' too different where you are, unless you are quite isolated. Kurt</p>

<p>Thank you Q.G.</p>

<p>Tad, which camera do you have? You wrote that it's the RZ67, but the link you provided is to the RB67, a different beast entirely.<br>

Here is the link for the RZ67<br>

http://www.mamiya.com/rz67-pro-iid.html<br>

The RB67 120 backs have no such mark, I just looked.</p>

<p>This is a good thread, what do you mean by "pop"? And the depth of field is shallower than the 135 format? I've just begun to play with my RB67, and noticed the shallow depth of field, which I wanted. But why would the DoF be different at, say, F5.6 between the two formats? Thanks, Kurt</p>

<p>Thank you, Paul, I'm in complete agreement with <em>everything </em> in the comment above. Most of what you see on the net as people's photography doesn't really interest me. And it's just that, pictures of flowers, a robin sitting on a branch, a model standing up. Like you, I've seen these things many times and want more. </p>

<p>You're Welcome Steve, I just looked around on google for three or four minutes. Do that yourself and you may find a couple others. Asking in camera shops might also prove fruitful. Good Luck! I can't believe that my own city is atypical, and we have several good facilities. So, there may be more near you. Kurt<br /> Here's some of what's available to me, here in vancouver.<br /> http://www.gkingphoto.com/<br /> http://www.thelabvancouver.com/<br /> http://www.abcphoto.com/<br /> http://www.customcolorprolab.com</p>

<p> How about Linhoff? There must be other places, here in Vancouver there are several places that will do it with good work. Even the drug store chain up the street will do it, but they send it out somewhere and quote a time of 2-4 weeks. I take a couple miles from me for less than they would charge and next day service. With very good results.</p>

<p>http://www.linhoff.com/retail services.html</p>

<p>"You would not believe that there could be twenty different and unique shots of the same stone."<br>

"Without me, it was just a rock."<br>

So, you were able to tell who had shot which picture? I shoot fireplugs for the same reason, a drill to tell something about the subject, but not the photographer.<br>

@Paul Wilkins, John's right about this thread. You started it and haven't graced it with your presence in two and half weeks. Not even to thank the several people who answered your question.:)<br>

Happy Shooting, Kurt</p>

<p>Thank you Phillip.</p>

<p>Thank you Mark, I have read it, page 79 seems to cover this subject and suggests that it should behave differently from the way it has been.<br>

"Turn the aperature ring until the 'oo' is displayed". When I changed the aperature, no change appeared in the finder, which is why I asked the question. Incidently, Mike Butkus works hard to put up orphaned manuals and deserves a lot of support. Also I won't download software from unknown sources, which is that PDF is.<br>

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/</p>

<p>Thanks guys, I don't understand how it could be on "A" when I'm turning the aperature ring. Something else I don't understand, I just got this Canon 28mm F2.8 lens a couple weeks ago. I took some good pictures with it, this for instance, http://profile.imageshack.us/user/kurtdriver/images/detail/#197/img00001u.jpg so I'm not sure what happens in the finder. if I set the shutter speed according to the meter at F22 and then turn the ring to F2.8 the reading does not alter. When I look at the back of that lens, I can't see the blades, nor can I on a tokina FD zoom. But there they are on the 50mm 1.8. So, I don't know if the aperature changes (it must or the pics would not be exposed correctly) on the 28mm. If I turn the ring on the 50mm the blades do not appear to open or close, again this lens on that camera have made some nice pictures. It would appear that I need to learn a thing or two about lenses because my Mamiya RB67 180mm lens doesn't show me it's blades either. So I just set the eoseure on a white wall in this room at F22 and in stopped down mode the match needle reads correct at 1/8 second. I then exposed for a dark room through a door, after which I set the aperature to F1.8 (on the 50mm) and it still reads correct at 1/8. This is what I do not understand. That and the lack of visible blades in those lenses. Giovanni, you're sure right about the lack of match needle metering, I got used to it in my AE-1 and always shoot the T90 in stopped down mode. It's a powerful camera, I ought to explore it a little.</p>

<p>When I change the aperature on any of my lenses the meter reading in the viewfinder doesn't change. This is wether it is stopped down or not. Kurt</p>

<p>"With trembling fingers as I open that box of transparencies, in my mind's eye I see what I saw in the viewfinder several days before, and lo and behold sometimes the image I now see on the lightbox is just what I imagined. That's why I still do it."<br>

And sometimes it's better than you remember. I don't know why i keep shooting film, maybe because I keep baying film cameras? And I occasionally make a nice picture.</p>

<p>I figured it out. You pull out on the black metal bit on the sides till it snaps. I had looked at that earlier, but was afraid of breaking something.</p>

<p>I picked up a Belfoca recently and it doesnt seem to lock. The lens not perpendicular to the film, which is a bit of a problem. Perhaps I should be like a holga user and seek out unexpected images. Does anyone have any ideas on how to lock it? It is the model with the Prontur S shutter and Meritar lens. Pardon me putting this in Optics, None of the categories seem to apply.</p>

<p>This is 120 film. photo number 2 shows how many exposures you will get with particular cameras. 8/6x9 is eight exposures in a 6x9 camera 12/6x6 twelve in a 6x6 camera, etc. That is definately the cryllic alphabet in pic no. 1. It means start?</p>

<p>Thank you, Subbarayan, I just bought an old Belfoca and was thinking of an wider angle lens, not really sure if I wanted to do much with this camera, I have so many now.But I think I'm decided now, on another lens for it. Thanks again, Kurt</p>

<p>Thanks guys, I think I'll stick with the rubber hood which I have. Thanks again, Kurt</p>