patrick_mason3
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Posts posted by patrick_mason3
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<p>Hi,</p>
<p>I am looking to buy a film scanner to scan 135 b/w negs. I am intending to use it for posting images on the web and printing small DIY publications nothing bigger than say an A4 print, although quality is of importance. I understand that quality scans for the web would be achievable with a flatbed scanner such as an epson but am unsure that this would translate so well into print. My budget doesn't really extend into the range of the high end Nikon coolscans but i am leaning towards a dedicated scanner. Do any of you have much experience with any of the Reflecta products? They seem much more reasonably priced and as their core business is film scanners you would think they would have some decent products. </p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
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<p>I just shot a roll of Kodak plus-x 125 that i shot at 200 as i find it hard to be sure where to place in between iso's on my leica cl's iso dial. Now i am just wondering how long i should develop it for if i am using ilfosol 3? Cheers</p>
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<p>Hi just a quick question about how to best store chemicals. I have started developing and printing my own film again recently and i am still a bit unsure on what to do with my chemicals when i'm not using them. i know i can reuse my fixer for a certain amount of time so should i just pour the used fixer into another container and reuse it until it is fatigued (if so what would be the best type of container?) or would it be better to just make up a big lot of working solution and just keep pouring the used fixer back into that? As far as developer i guess just leave it in its original bottle? Any help or suggestions on what you do would be great.<br>
Cheers</p>
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<p>Thanks so much for all the awesome advice. So if i was to go with the flatbed option, would i just need a film attachment? and this would be sufficient for web posting but how about when it comes to print? i'm also guessing that a flatbed would be perfectly fine for using as a means of say replicating a contact sheet, as in editing purposes, if so i guess i could use that for the mean time then if i need to print anything in the future i could just get my selected negatives scanned more professionally?</p>
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<p>Hi Guys,<br>
So here's the thing, i have been shooting alot more b/w film recently and am as i want to save money and have more control over my negs i am going to start developing at home. However i don't have enough space to setup a darkroom to accommodate an enlarger etc so i am looking into the option of scanning my negs but am unsure of which is the best way to go about this. My first thought was to invest in a decent film dedicated scanner such as a coolscan but recently read that flatbeds may also be a viable and cheaper option. It may help to know what my goal is i.e what i need to achieve quality wise, i am hoping to create a quality website to showcase my work and at some point in the near future possibly produce a zine of my work. Any info on which would be the best option to aid me in achieving this would be much appreciated.<br>
Cheers.</p>
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<p>Sorry here are the other examples<br>
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Hi guys, I am going to be applying for a job as a website photographer for a clothing store. The job description says
that the job will require the shooting of clothing, accessories and homewares (all clothing would be shot on
mannequins). Duties will also include colour correcting, cropping and re-sizing the images in Photoshop ready to be
uploaded on to the website. I have shot a catalogue before however for that I shot the clothing flat lay on a piece of
white foam core.
For this job I was thinking of lighting the mannequin with either two strobes (with softboxes) either side or one strobe
and reflector for fill and then lighting the bg to blow it out as white as possible than removing in photoshop. Not quite
sure how would be best to go about shooting accessories such as handbags with straps as this would be harder to
remove bg due to more intricate edges. Any suggestions? Or different ideas on how to best light and remove
background?
Also as far as colour correction go’s so far I’m thinking of using a test shot with gray card or whibal and than
applying these settings to all images in photoshop as it is for the web and not everyones monitors will be calibrated
etc I know this will not make too much of a difference but would like to get as close as possible, what do you think?
In concern with resizing and preparation for web what would you recommend as a suitable image quality?
I have provided some examples from the website to help illustrate my goal.
P.S. the business will be providing studio and lighting equipment.
Cheers.<div>
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<p>Sorry if i have caused some confusion, i actually do know a bit about photography and have shot a few catalogues for friends, i just didn't want to bore you with the ins and outs of the job. i was more hoping to possibly get some tips on these subjects from someone more experienced so i could do a better job and not waste mine or the employers time. i have only read a job description and haven't applied yet and was wanting some pointers to see if i thought i was qualified enough to apply.<br>
Matt the clothes would be hung on mannequins and accesories would be flat layed i would guess. i think the employer would provide studio and lighting but i would use my camera, i shoot with a nikon D100.</p>
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<p>Hi guys i am applying for a job as a website photographer for a vintage clothing website, and i just have few questions that hopefully some of you could help me out with and give me a leg up to get the job. It's fairly basic stuff pretty much just shooting clothes and accessories against a white background, evenly lit etc. i was just wondering how you would best set up lighting equipment, as in using soft boxes or umbrellas? also i'm thinking the most important things will be colour correction to make sure the clothes appear on the website as they actually are, how would i best go about doing this for a large number of products. Also as i will be shooting for web i wondering what quality should i shoot the clothes i don't think raw would be necessary?<br>
sorry for the long boring question, but any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.</p>
The Dirk Braeckman look?
in Black & White Practice
Posted
<p>Hi guys,</p>
<p>I have recently come across the work of Belgian photographer Dirk Braeckman (<a href="http://www.dirkbraeckman.be/works">http://www.dirkbraeckman.be/works</a>) and I love the tonal quality of his photographs. They are low key, low contrast, rarely have white white highlights and shadows that while deep still seem to retain detail. I have read them described as grey scale photos rather than b/w photos. I was wondering how to best go about getting a similar look? I can tell he uses flash in the majority of his interiors and I think he uses a variety of cameras including a contax t2. Do you think he exposes normally and then just slightly underdevlops, to avoid blown highlights and high contrast? Any ideas on how this look is acheived would be much appreciated.</p>
<p>Cheers,<br>
Patrick</p>