rob_c3

<p>From a human physiological pt of view, it looks like that woman is an olympic weight lifter, and thats just her vein, popping up from her oversized calf muscle.</p>

<p>So if a girl's skirt flies up and you managed the capture the moment, would you have the right to keep and publish that photo?</p>

<p>Elliot: What noise reduce software do you use?</p>

<p>Dave: welcome aboard. I myself also purchases d200 recently. To be honest, I thought I would stay with this camera for 2-3 years before moving toward FX body. But NAS got caught of me and now I am thinking of purchasing D300. Your story has allieviate some of the NAS symptoms that I've been going thru. Hopefully I don't goto adorama or b&h to look at d300 in the next few hours.</p>

<p>Like everyone mentioned, stopping down means to adjust the aperture. Not sure how familiar you are with aperature, but it is the opening of the lens. Depending on how big the hole is, or the f stop, you either let more or less light in. The smaller the F, the bigger the opening. So a f/1.4 would be an extremely big opening, while at f/22 very tiny.<br>

That is how exposure works. When you're in low light situation, you want more light to come in so your image would be bright, but when outside on a sunny day, less light in.</p>

<p>I just took a great landscape pic but realize that you can see a garbage can and a light pole. What software do you guys recommend I use to remove such distractions?<br>

I did research into a few programs. One is photoshop elements and other is photoshop cs4. It seems like adobe photoshop elements 7 is a cheaper alternative and marketed towards new users. It also has some neat little tools. Like comparing two images and removing the unwanted object/people that walked into image. Does photoshop cs4 also have a easy simple to use tool like this, or would it be more complex in cs4. I have light room now, but have not found any simple solution to remove unwanted objects in my photos..</p>

<p>Rob</p>

<p>Had I not read this thread, I probably wouldn't even know to turn off my camera during lens change. I think its better to just err on the safe side and turn of camera during the transformation.</p>

<p>I can't believe noone mentioned about the price. If price is any consideration, the 35mm f/1.8 G is cheaper than the f/2 D</p>

<p>Liposuction on photos... i like that.</p>

<p>Chris: One of the lenses you've recommended, 35mm f/1.8, is a new lens and pretty much sold out every where.<br>

Fansworth: I have never shot a wedding before... well I have but not in a professional capacity. It was just my Nikon D70 with kit lens and onboard flash. At any rate, take my comment however you want. I think a 2nd body is prety much imperative to a wedding shoot. Most everyone here have mentioned a 2nd body as a backup, but you should also carry a 2nd body with a different lens attached. If the wedding is held in a low light room, prime lenses usually are better dealing at those situations. Primes usually have faster stops letting more light in, but are fixed in focal length. Therefore carrying a 2nd body with a different lens comes in handy.</p>