joe_plumber

<p>1.8D</p>

 

<p>Ive been shooting sports with a Nikon 70-210 Series E AIS lens on a D1h and its a great combo and ive gotten some great shots. Sometimes I  love the manual focus, but sometimes its a big pain. So I am going to add an AF tele-zoom for those moments when id rather have AF.<br>

These are the lenses I am considering:</p>

<ul>

<li>70-210 AF</li>

<li>70-210 AF-d</li>

<li>70-300 ED AF-d</li>

<li>80-200 AF (early version)</li>

<li>75-300 AF</li>

<li>75-240 AF </li>

<li>55-200 DX</li>

<li>55-200 DX VR </li>

</ul>

<p> <br>

I simply want to know which one will focus the fastest!

<p> <br>

Thanks, Joe the Plumber</p>

<p>HIE is infrared film that Kodak discontinued in 2007. It is considered by many to be the best infrared film ever. Im sad that I was too young to ever use it. By the time i found out about IR photography, its was gone.</p>

<p>if you are happy, thats a success.</p>

<p>a beer<br /> or<br /> a roll of HIE</p>

<p>How about a little cannon P&S? Then you have a digital camera, that wont weigh you down, yet keep shooting film for what is important. It will save you thousands of bucks, which you should invest, and buy a camera that <strong>could actually compete with your MF film</strong> in about five years. None of the cameras you mentioned will do that.</p>

<p>If you dont like that suggestion, then one last thing: dont buy the D300. Its in between, not cheap enough to make you glad you bought a DX camera. At least the D200 is cheap so you wont have have felt completely ripped off when you need a new camera in a few years.</p>

<p>Morals<br>

or<br>

Canon 5200mm f/14</p>

<p>Which would you rather have:<br>

Leica M7<br>

or<br>

Nikon SP</p>

<p>Here is the game:<br>

I start by posing two pieces of equipement. The next poster deides which they would rather have and posts two other things. So on and so forth, feel free to answer any previous question out of turn. And of course, add comments because thats what makes this interesting.</p>

<p>They used to make polaroid backs for the nikon pro cameras, like the f4 etc. Polaroids are also commonly used for previews in large format cameras. I dont really see that there would be a difference in digital vs polaroid previews.</p>

<p>Matthew - pure h2o is not conductive at all. 0.0000000%, but your right in the sense that it is impossible to have perfect water.</p>

<p>This is why the best solution to flooded stuff is distilled water in a very clean container. It does not conduct electricity. This works for cameras, ipods (without HDD), computers (no HDD), phones, etc. If any even come close to being fully saturated with water, remove the power and battery (easy on computers and cameras, harder on ipods, although on older ones its pretty) easy and submerse in distilled water until you are ready to deal with the flood. If you rinse once, and then resubmerge, this helps, since you wash away the normal water and any minerals it contians as well as those that would just come from the camera itself. You basically just dont want conductive water or air reaching any of the parts.</p>

<p>They should be a bit purple...<br>

If they are very purple, refix and rewash them, but im guessing that they were done right.</p>

<p>How about the D90, and the 50 1.8. Thats almost exactly one grand and, would make a perfect low light combo. If you think you will need more flexability from a zoom lens, splurge for the D90, the kit lens and the 50 1.8. Total should be around $1250 all new, but if you look carefully you may find a better deal.</p>

<p>the D400...</p>

<p>@ Charles Webster, does too. The whole point is that it is universal. Next time look at the page, not the link.</p>

<p>The 4670 is a great card because it doent use too much power, and is fanless, and high performance, yet also realitivly cheap.<br>

I wouldnt bother with the 2600.</p>

<p>Use it daily on film and DX bodies. For film, its the classic lens! Fast and sharp! On DX its longer than the normal "human field of view," but makes it a great short portait lens, and also good for most other applications.<br>

Its the fastest, sharpest, cheapest lens you will ever own so there is no question that you should buy one.</p>

<p>70-200VR</p>

<ul>

<li>you get to inspect it</li>

<li>faster AF</li>

<li>VR, new etc. = higher resale value</li>

</ul>

<p>When you get an FX body, use the lens you currently own and leave the 70-200 on your DX backup. This way you will avoid the well known corner problems of the 70-200 (i would have got one, but i shoot all film)</p>

<p>How about using a proxie server?<br>

Im not sure that this will work, but it normally hide most traffic from outside eyes.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>The result is a picture that is outstanding, and the bride will adore!</p>

</blockquote>

<p>That is if the bride likes corners sticking out of her head.</p>