john_bolton2

<p>If you want to buy one lens to be both a walk-around and portait lens, the 17-55 2.8 IS is a good choice. It's WAY sharper than the 50 1.8 at max aperture, but the 50 is a little sharper at higher apertures. And, of course, you can move around all you want with a zoom, too. But, dollar for dollar, I think the 85 1.8 and 100 2.0 are Canon's best portrait lenses. Each are less than 1/2 the price of the 17-55 2.8 IS. The 50 1.8 is way cheaper still, but it doesn't have USM and the build quality matches the price.</p>

<p>http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=398&Camera=474&Sample=0&FLI=4&API=0&LensComp=105&CameraComp=9&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0</p>

<p>Mouse over the image to see the lens selected on the right-hand side (50 1.8).</p>

<p>The 17-55 2.8 IS is a great lens, and, unfortunately, it's priced accordingly. For portraits, I mostly use it at the long end for groups where I can't retreat far enough with my 70-200 2.8 IS. I think it may be the best walk-around lens for a crop-body Canon. My only gripe with it is that, for the price of admission, it should come with a hood.</p>

<p>And here's an ISO-12800 sample:</p><div></div>

<p>A good NR plug-in is the key. Here's an ISO-6400 snapshot I just took with my little Canon 50D of my dog lying in shadows of very low light:</p><div></div>

<p>It's simple: Most adults, myself included, don't like the way they look.. I love being behind a camera and hate being in front of one. The only self-portrait I've taken in 20 years is this one, taken late one night with a really old P&S (Canon G2) after knocking out the better part of an 18-pack of Miller Lite.</p><div></div>

<p>Do your dad and his neighbor a favor. Take some pictures, don't mark up the prints, and don't bring any documents to be signed.</p>

<p>It's the best all-around lens, of any make.</p>

<p>I think you guys are nuts to spend so much on "pro" chargers and batteries. I have dozens of Energizers from Wal-Mart around the house, for flashes and Xbox/Wii controllers, and a 15-minute Energizer charger that cost next to nothing. I just checked one set of batteries that have been sitting for over a month, and they're still at > 1.3v. And what difference does really long shelf life make when it takes 15 minutes tops to charge?</p>

<p>http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=677074</p>

<p>If the pilot lamp is red and it doesn't flash when you push it, it must be broken.</p>

<p>I think you'd have to be crazy to put forth the conditions outlined, unless you hate your job and want an excuse to find another. Either way, your employer WILL remember. Do you want the memory to be favorable or unfavorable?</p>

<p>What focus issues? Nikon has the same focus adjustment feature in their latest bodies.</p>

<p>For a given FL, DOF is larger on the 5D2, not smaller.</p>

<p>You might double-check the 40D and make sure the PC sync cable is plugged in all the way.</p>

<p>The PC sync isn't working at all. It's either the cable, the strobe, or your camera. Try another camera or another cable. When the strobe does fire, it's being triggered by the built-in flash's preflash, which is way too soon for the shutter.</p>

<p>No.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.secrents.com/camerasandlenses/canon.html">Southeastern Camera Rents Photo Gear</a></p>

<p>See now that you wanted other than above. Oops.</p>

<p>I love my CyberSyncs. I have the AC-powered receivers. They'll work on anything with a standard PC-type power plug and 1/8 mono sync port, and they come with a variety of cables to adapt to other sync ports.</p>

<p>I think either one would be great!</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I'm told by the pro's that the default technology in the software for CDs is data file based, whereas DVDs are expecting a video type file and have to be tricked by software to accept data files.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>DVD Video IS a bunch of data files.</p>

<p>To copy files to DVD+/-R, use Vista, not Roxio or anything else. You don't need to finalize before you've filled the DVD unless you want some non-Windows device to be able to read it.</p>

<p>Same lens, FF has more DOF at a given aperture. Same FOV, FF has less DOF.</p>

<p>You should buy a 50D from a place with a good return policy and decide for yourself. If you like it, sell the D90 and get more than trade-in. If you don't, return the 50D. FWIW, I love my 50D. I've handled others' Nikons, but have never owned one.</p>

<p>Marcus, I love that last shot! Thanks...</p>

<p>The whole group looks out of focus to me. Looks oversharpened, too.</p>

<p>Go handle the ones you can afford. Buy the one you like most. Get one lens for it. If you change your mind later, sell both and buy something else.</p>

<p>It works great on my XP laptop and Vista x64 desktop.</p>