john_bolton2

<p>In the USA, we have some 50 million blood-sucking leeches content to live on whatever they can get from the government, so long as they never have to actually work. That's more than double the entire population of all of Scandinavia. Of those that do actually work, 50% pay no income tax at all. The Scandinavian model would never, ever work here. Until voting is restricted to taxpayers, we'll continue to devolve.</p>

<p>On that note, how's the IT job market in Norway, Sweden, and Finland for foreigners who only speak English (but are willing to learn the native language)?</p>

<p>This photo was taken hand held at 200mm, f/2.8 and 1/25 s. Without IS, it wouldn't have been usable.</p><div></div>

<p>I don't understand why the word "capitalism" was even injected into this conversation. If you think new camera equipment prices are too high, don't buy any new camera equipment. If enough people are like minded, prices (adjusted for inflation) will eventually fall. If at some future point in time the manufacturer can't make enough/any money on the equipment, then they will stop manufacturing it. That's the way free markets work, and the way it should be. If you think an alternative system like communism would be better, then you're clueless. Ask any Soviet immigrant.</p>

<p>Buy nothing now. Start saving for a 5D3. That's what I'm doing (50D).</p>

<p>The apparent greenness of the grass on the far side of the fence is directly proportional to the length of time spent on the near side of the fence. Unless you're a fanboy, in which case it's inversely proportional.</p>

<p>As others have said, I use it for manually-focused tripod shots of landscapes, especially at night. I also use it with Face Detection and a tripod when I want my 10-year-old to take a picture of me in my make-shift studio.</p>

<p>Sorry to hear of your troubles. Since '98, I've owned a film body (EOS 5), two digital bodies (Rebel XT, 50D), and five Canon lenses. All focus perfectly.</p>

<p>FF has deeper DOF than crop with same lens and same distance to subject. However, considering you'll need to move in even much closer to your subject with FF for same apparent subject size (FOV), the DOF will be more shallow.</p>

<p>My 50D has been great from day 1.</p>

<p>Core i7 processor, motherboard with chipset that supports tri-channel DDR3 memory and fitted with as much DDR3-1600 memory as it will hold or you can afford (6/12/24 GB).</p>

<p>40D/50D AF is arguably better and definitely faster than the 5D/2. All focus points are cross-type on 40D/50D. On the 5D/2, only the center point is cross-type.</p>

<p>The II model also has better IS. 1.0-1.5 stops better.</p>

<p>The original 2.8 IS is noticeably softer at or near 2.8. When I need to shoot at < 3.5, I usually try to stay near 135mm to minimize the softness, which is worst at both ends of the zoom range. The 2.8 II doesn't suffer from this so much, but I'm willing to live with it given the price tag of the new model.</p>

<p>The 2.8s do have very good bokeh:</p>

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<p>http://www.adorama.com/SL700D.html</p>

<p>The legs are great, especially for the money, but they aren't light. If you're tall like me (6'5"), you'll love the 74"+ max height. I can't vouch for the 3-way head in this combo, but I'm sure it's fine, especially on a budget. I have an old Bogen 3028 on mine, used only for studio work.</p>

<p>24-70 f2.8 L or 70-200 f4 L, depending on your FOV needs.</p>

<p>The EF-S 17-55 2.8 IS is a great lens and I highly recommend it as an all-around lens on a 7D. I keep a Hoya HMC Super UV(0) filter on mine and have had no issues with dust infiltration in the one year that I've had it. My only gripe is that, for what this lens costs, the hood I bought for it should've come with the lens.</p>

<p>Flash didn't fire in first two close-ups. You can see that in the pot lid on the left. Compare to third and fourth close-up shots.</p>

<p>85 1.8 or 100 2.0</p>

<p>Center sharpness appears to be much better with the 135 2.0. Judge for yourself:</p>

<p>http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?FLI=0&API=0&Sample=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0&LensComp=108&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&Lens=106</p>

 

<p>Here's a hand-held shot that would have turned out far worse without IS.</p><div></div>

<p>Good grief. Stop being so suspicious and help him spend $25k, or don't reply.</p>

<p>1. 2 x 1D Mark IV ($10,000)<br>

2. 1 x 300 2.8L IS ($4500)<br>

3. 2 x 70-200 2.8L IS ($3500)<br>

4. 2 x 16-35 2.8L ($3000)<br>

5. 2 x 580EX II ($850)</p>

<p>Spend the rest on filters, steadicams, mics, and other accessories.</p>

<p>Love my Lowepro Flipside, except for the little orange camera-on-a-tripod emblem at the bottom. Doh!</p>

<p>Both of my lenses are on the list. #13 and #20.</p>

<p>"Software" is optional code like an application, or even an operating system, that adds functionality to a general-purpose computer. Without software, a computer will still function to some degree but will be of limited usefulness.</p>

<p>"Firmware" is required code for any device controlled by a processor. The device will not function at all without it. A PC's "BIOS" is firmware, as it instructs the computer how and where to look for an operating system to load. A PC hard drive has firmware that tells it how to know when data is being requested, how to find the data requested, and how to provide it to the requester. Similarly, microprocessor-controlled cameras (every digital camera, and most later-model film cameras) have firmware that make them work.</p>

<p>Love my 50D. Have had it since February and have had zero problems with it.</p>