carlos_prado2

<p>I have spoken with several respectable LEICA repair technicians over the years regarding the differences between the SL2 and SL2 MOT.</p> <p>Every single one of them has told me clearly that the internal components are of the same quality and robustness for both cameras. The MOT version does NOT have better or superior parts inside.</p> <p>This is a compete myth.</p> <p>I would really love it if someone could produce concrete evidence that contradicts this fact.</p>

<p>I have spoken with several respectable LEICA repair technicians over the years regarding the differences between the SL2 and SL2 MOT.</p> <p>Every single one of them has told me clearly that the internal components are of the same quality and robustness for both cameras. The MOT version does NOT have better or superior parts inside.</p> <p>This is a compete myth.</p> <p>I would really love it if someone could produce concrete evidence that contradicts this fact.</p>

<p>I have spoken with several respectable LEICA repair technicians over the years regarding the differences between the SL2 and SL2 MOT.</p> <p>Every single one of them has told me clearly that the internal components are of the same quality and robustness for both cameras. The MOT version does NOT have better or superior parts inside.</p> <p>This is a compete myth.</p> <p>I would really love it if someone could produce concrete evidence that contradicts this fact.</p>

<p>Its the one at the bottom of the image on the base of the motor-drive.</p> <p><img src="https://961dc35967d627118b55-fd8a6a8fd4678cb2b067bdc60196a7a3.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/models/23/18/231889-3_470x470.jpg" alt="" width="470" height="470" /></p>

<p>Hello</p> <p>Can anyone please tell me the name of the screw-in cap that fits the LEICA R8/R9 MOTOR-DRIVE.</p> <p>This cap is screwed into the 8-pin socket for the remote control.</p> <p>I lost mine and need to purchase a new one.</p> <p>I have attached a photo showing the cover/cap.</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>Carlos</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hello</p> <p>I recently purchased a LEICA 50mm Dual Range lens.</p> <p>Unfortunately, it did not come with the close-up goggles.</p> <p>I would now like to purchase the GOGGLES. However, It seems that two versions of the goggles exist. </p> <p>I would greatly appreciate it if someone would be kind enough to tell me the "serial number" for the lens, which designates the first, from the second version.</p> <p>Thanks everyone for your help in advance,</p> <p>Carlos</p>

<p>David</p> <p>Thanks for the info. The DOF preview lever slides up smoothly, instead of snapping back immediately.</p> <p>So, I guess this is ok.</p>

<p>yeah, thats the problem.</p> <p>I remove my finger from the "DOF preview lever" immediately, and yet, the aperture blades open up slowly, in a smooth fashion.</p> <p>And, thats what i need someone with a R8/R9 to confirm. </p> <p>Is this the normal behavior; cause it might be...</p> <p> </p>

<p>its the 50mm summicron.<br> and, when i take a photo, it opens and closes instanteneously.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hello</p> <p>When i press the " Depth-of-Field Preview Lever" on my LEICA R8, and then release it, I notice that the "shutter blades" on the lens open up rather slowly. Does anyone else experience this?</p> <p>So, let me explain. Before pressing the "preview lever", my lens is open to its widest aperture of f/2.8. Then, when I press the "preview lever", the lens classes down to the aperture I have set - in this case f/5.6.</p> <p>However, when I release the "preview lever", the aperture blades don't open immediately and snap back to f/2.8; they open slowly back to f/2.8.</p> <p>Does anyone else experience this? Is this normal?</p> <p>By the way, my camera was serviced recently, and so was the lens.</p> <p>Please help.</p> <p>Carlos</p>

<p>I'm still looking for one.</p> <p>But I would really like to have a repair option before I purchase.</p>

<p>Hello everyone</p> <p>I'm thinking of buying a Microtek Artixscan 120Tf scanner. (It is basically a re-branded Polaroid Sprintscan 120.)<br> Anyway, I really like this scanner, but Microtek will no longer services/repairs these old scanners.<br> I'm hoping someone can tell me if there is a third party that still services the many great film scanners still in use.<br> so, can anyone tell me where I might get this scanner repaired or serviced?<br> Thank you very much in advance.<br> Carlos</p>

<p>Thank you for the response.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hello</p> <p>I recently purchased a Hasselblad 202FA body, and noticed that the shutter release button is much stiffer than that of my Hasselblad 503CW, which I have owned for a long time.</p> <p>Actually, the shutter button on the 202FA is extremely smooth at first. In other words it offers little resistance when I push it in, half-way, in order to activate the "Metering system".</p> <p>Then, when it is already depressed half-way, and the meter is active, it offers considerable resistance, making the shutter release action, rather clumsy and jerky.</p> <p>Is this typical of the 202FA, 203FE or other 200 series bodies?</p> <p>Are their shutter realease buttons stiffer than the 500 series bodies; or, should I have my 202FA serviced?</p> <p>Thank you all in advance for your help and responses,</p> <p>Carlos</p>

<p>Hello</p> <p>My Contax G1 is exhibiting a very strange behavior.<br> When I turn it on and try to focus using AF, the lens extends all the way out, to its closest focusing distance and gets stuck in that position.<br> However, i can still hear the "Focusing screw", on the camera, turning.<br> What i am calling the "focusing screw", is the small protruding, "flat head screwdriver" looking piece, towards the bottom of the Bayonet mount, on the camera.<br> I can hear it turning endlessly, and yet the lens is not responding, it remains in its most extended position, the close-focus position.<br> As a matter of fact, the "focus screw" continues turning, even when I shut the camera off.<br> It only stops when i remove the batteries.<br> Does anyone here have any inkling of what might be happening?<br> Thank you all in advance for your help,</p> <p>Carlos</p>

<p>Hello</p> <p>I am looking into the ALPA reflex cameras.</p> <p>I have found several references stating that the "ALPA 11si" had improved "mirror" and "shutter" compared to the "ALPA 10d".</p> <p>Can anyone tell me what these "mirror" and "shutter' improvements were, and are they really noticeable?</p> <p>I am finding very good copies of the "ALPA 10d" at much lower prices than the "ALPA 11Si", and I really want to know if these "mirror" and "shutter" improvements are worth the extra premium.<br> (by the way, I am very aware of the differences in meter functions between the two cameras. However, this is not a deciding factor for me.)</p> <p>Thank you all in advance for your help.</p> <p> </p>