jimpete

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<p> Just wondering if when photos are rated on this site if you give higher ratings based on large sums of money to get there or extraordinary physical effort to get to the location. I know I do. I would feel privelged just to get to some locations. There are some photos on here where I know it was a once in a lifetime situation. So I reward photos more even if they are not the best, although some of course are quite good. Just thinking. Jim</p>

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<p> Hello Joao, I bought a Mamiya 7 11 body + the 80mm lens not too long ago for $1200 on Ebay and thought that to be a fair price. If you are considering buying the older version Mamiya 7 body with the 80 it should be about $1000 to $1100. Good Luck. Jim</p>

<p> Hello Joao, I bought a Mamiya 7 11 body + the 80mm lens not too long ago for $1200 on Ebay and thought that to be a fair price. If you are considering buying the older version Mamiya 7 body with the 80 it should be about $1000 to $1100. Good Luck. Jim</p>

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<p> I often see this advertised on EBAY as an enlarging lens, which I guess it is, but am more aware of good performance for infinity landcsapes and close up nature photos from a lot of research on this site. Is this one and the same lens? Are there two different lenses for two different applications. I am thinking that it is one and the same. I am not familiar with enlarging lenses and not really interested in that, but more interested in a versatile light landscape lens that can do some close up as well. Thanks for any help. I am still learning large format. Jim </p>

<p> I finally have a few detailed landscape Mamiya 7II Nikon Coolscans done at 16bit tiff at 3000 (the 4000's I did are quite cumbersome in Elements 7 so had to give up on them for now) dpi ready for printing. I am planning on farming out glossy Fuji Chrystal Archive Chromira prints at 11x14, 16x20, and a couple at 20x24 to see what the Mamiya is capable of. I bought the Mamiya with the intention to make larger prints. Photos were taken with Fuji Velvia 50 and 100. My question is how much Unsharp Mask would you recommend for already seemingly sharp images with Mamiya 7 glass. This of course pertains to Amount, Radius, and Threshold. I have heard that what you see on the monitor as far as sharpening isn't necessarily what you get in print. My monitor is color calibrated with Eyeone 2 Display. Thanks for any help. Jim</p>

<p>Curt, Pictopia in the San Francisco Bay Area does lightjets and I know they do square formats. On their site you just plug in the dimensions you want and a price comes up. I haven't used them, but with lots of research on square formats they were the best I found and seemed pretty reasonable. Is the photo you posted the one for your client? It is very nice. If this is the photo it might work out fine for a big 35mm blowup since it is mostly a silhoutte without a ton of fine detail like leaves and the like. Good luck.</p>

<p>Hi, I posted this on a related forum, but thought I would try here also since I always got great answers here. I just got a few Nikon Coolscan 9 scans done (first ever) from a few Mamiya 7 color transparencies. I farmed this out. They were done at a scan resolution of 4000ppi and at 16 bit depth and are tiff files. The files are huge (566mb and the pixel dimension is 8961 X 11016). I did this on purpose though so that I could eventually print large (16 X 20 or larger) if need be with a lot of detail. I only had 1GB of RAM in my computer. I upgraded that to 3 GB and Elements 7 still tills me that the files are too large to import. I have a feeling that some of you folks do this sort of thing. I wonder if I am missing something. I wonder what my minimum computer requirements would be for working on these files. Thanks for any info. Jim</p>

<p>Mendel, Mamiya 7 is 6x7cm format. The pixel dimensions of the scan files are 8964 X 11016.</p>

<p> Hi, I just got my first scans from photos from the Mamiya 7. I farmed this out and had 4000ppi Scans done with the Nikon Coolscan 9. They are huge 16 bit tiff files (560mb), but this is what I was after so that I could potentially produce some nice large prints with lots of detail (16x20 and larger). I initially only had 1GB of Ram. I upgraded this to 3GB, but Elements still tells me that the files are too large. Any suggestions? Is 3GB good enough for these humongous files? I wonder if I am missing something. I just got Elements 7 also so am quite new to all this stuff. Thanks for any help. Jim</p>

<p>Thank you very much for all of the informative answers. I agree now that you still have to get the shot like some of you mentioned even with some loss of quality due to diffraction. Happy shooting.</p>

<p>I just got the 150mm to add to the arsenal and was quite surprised to see a F32 on the lens. All the other lenses I have (43,65,and 80) max out at F22. Anyway, I pretty much do landscapes only trying to max out depth of field. I am trying to max out the Mamiya system short of 4X5 (100 percent tripod). I was planning to use this lens for distance landscapes at f16 or perhaps f22 mostly focused at infinity making sure that nothing nearer than 30 feet is in the foreground. So this is pretty specialized with a lot of cliff type overlooks and distant subjects. This would appear to be a good application for the lens. I was just wondering if anyone gets sharp results at F32 or does diffraction cause some problems. Also, was just wondering of other folks strategies for landscaping with this lens. Thanks. </p>

<p>Thanks a lot for all the great answers. I really appreciate it! Now I have some direction. Cheers. Jim</p>

<p> Hi, I noticed there isn't a lot of info on this forum for mamiya 6 and 7 on printing and scanning options. I am pretty new to all of this. I finally have a few decent transparencies that I can do something with. I have had a few small 8x10 prints made without scanning just to see what my M711 is capable of. I have been pretty happy so far. So what do you guys do? Anybody got a nice workflow dialed in? Right now I am only interested in 11x14's or 16X20's because that is all I can afford. However, I do take my time with each photo mostly with tripod so that I could go larger down the road. I am pretty much a landscaper with the 65mm and 80mm. Will get the 50mm or 43mm down the road. Definitely need the 150 for more distant f/16 shots. I use both Velvia 50 and 100. Do you all scan first and then manipulate a little bit for your needs? I'm not a computer geek. Do you use the Nikon Coolscan 9000? Do you scan yourself or send that out? How is that working out? Do you like inkjets or lightjets? Which is better? Are lightjets the same as RA4? Are there some labs you like that are excellent. I am looking for really good results but not a fanatic. I hope to just get a workflow that works well and is consistent and I like and don't have to worry about all this technical stuff and can just go out and do photography. I know- a lot of questions, but you guys are awesome.</p>

<p>Thanks a lot for all the great responses. I have learned a lot and am very appreciative. I will stick with what I have and try to max out what I can do with that and then go from there. Lot to be said for figuring out what you have first before moving on. Thanks again.</p>

<p>I should add that I think I can deal with filters doing landscape with the 7 and that I haven't taken enough shots yet with the 65 to answer my question.</p>

<p> I have the mamiya 80mm and the 65mm lens. The 80 is great for street photography and people photography. It acts almost as a point and shoot at f 5.6 with nice background blur. You can even hand hold for this. It is reason enough just to hang on to this lens although it does just find for certain landscapes stopped way down. However, that isn't why I bought into the system. It was very enlightening to discover this kind of street photography application. I am a landscaper though and just bought the 65 and have indeed enjoyed the better depth of field. I would of bought the 43 and/or 50 but couldn't quite afford it. So with landscapes I would like to get excellent foreground (like wildflowers) to infinity focus. Is this achievable with the 43, 50, and 65 or should I just go sell everything and get a Chamonix 45n1 or Tachihara?</p>

<p>Doug and D.O. Thanks for the continued advice. Will try it out. Cool street shot D.O.</p>