roelof_lucas

<p>Sounds like it is not resetting all the way back to S rather than jumping to six. As the GX is fairly new it would surprise me if it were already filled with grime and hardened lubricant. So it is my guess that the most likely cause is that the side panel of the camera the counter wheel sits underneath is very slightly pushed in, causing the counter wheel to bind. Just try tapping the side panel with your finger if it gets stuck again and see if the counter returns to S. Taking the side off without marring the finish is not easy I would have it looked at by a pro.</p>

<p>Difficult to say from your photo. Just wait for the results to come in. My bet is that you won't see a thing except on photos taken directly into the light. I had a rolleiflex T with really bad coating problems and when used with the hood it would not show at all in the photos.</p>

 

<p>My Automat has the two fixing points but not a back with groove in the mount, so there is still hope....</p>

<p>My MX has a groove in the mount so there are MX models that have that. The back looks identical to the one on the 3.5F except for the exposure chart so it is very likely they exchange. As far as I can see only the Rolleiflex T has a different back (Rolleicord).<br>

Rolleicord backs will not work on a Rolleiflex although you can put one on, the film loading mechanism will not function.</p>

<p>It looks like you have more than one problem. The light leak on the right of your image is fairly easy to fix yourself by replacing the darkslide seal in the magazine. The horizontal stripes are a bit of a poser as shutterproblems tend to provoke vertical banding rather than horizontal stripes ( this reminds me more of scanning issues then camera problems). Perhaps another light leak ? Maybe the thin shutter foil is damaged in places. I would replace the camera rather than spend money on it and ruin more potentialy very nice shots. ( and not with a P6 or something like that if you wish to avoid issues like this in the future)</p>

<p>Make sure the calibration holes at the top of the negcarrier are clean, that makes a big difference. When I first got my Epson I also had problems with lines and for some reason those went away ( and stayed away) when I deinstalled and reinstalled the software.</p>

<p>It is probably also for f3.5 lenses but for the 3.5F model Rolleiflex which would make it bay ll. If you paid the bay l price you made good deal and you can sell it with profit. You would need 28.5mm</p>

<p>Rolleinar 1 would have been a better choice for portraits. The DOF gets really shallow when using the Rolleinar 2 so you will need to select a very small diaphragm to have all of your subject in focus. It is better suited for photography of small objects or flowers and such.<br>

Just keep looking, fortunately Rolleinar 1 are more common than the 2 and 3 so you are bound to find a set.</p>

<p>Your best bet is to contact Rick Oleson and see if he can help you.<br>

<a href="http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-175.html">http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-175.html</a></p>

<p>Start with a Rolleiflex 3.5F, I have one and I love it for all the reasons already listed above. Forget Kiev, Pentacon six and such, unless you suffer from a masochistic streak or enjoy camera repair. With the money saved on not buying those get a nice Hasselblad 500 C/M if you feel you need a camera with interchangeable backs and lenses.</p>

<p>And if you have problems finding a fish eye, you could get him a 4/50 Flektogon wide angle.</p>

<p>The earlier models are less complicated. Rollei refined the models as they went along. If you want to tackle a 3.5F with the linkages to the light meter you are starting with the most difficult model. There is very little difference between the Automat and the MX. The T is a completely different animal and although internally simpler than the Automats they can be very difficult to repair.</p>

<p>My father has a T that that has seen good use since the 1960ties and is fine. I broke mine within two months and when I opened it I found it to be a complete dissapointment compared to my Automat. I would not advise anyone to buy one, the clutch mechanism of the handle is so primitive that when it fails it is almost impossible to fix.<br>

An Automat sells for the same money as a T and is a joy to own. If you are on a tight budget you might consider a Rolleicord Vb, those sell for around 150 euros my part of the world.</p>

<p>Is it possible that the glass plate that protects the prism on the bottom, that sits right over the screen is fogged? That comes off by unscrewing four screws, and then you can clean it. Be very careful as when the plate is off the lightmeter needle is unprotected.</p>

<p>The 645 already has one of the brightest screens I have come across, I doubt if any aftermarket screens will be brighter. Could it be that the silvering in the prism you use has degraded causing a loss of light ? You could perhaps buy a focusing screen with wedge, that might make it easier to focus through the prism.<br>

I had the prism on loan for two weeks but decided against it, the waistlevelfinder is so much more comfortable to use. You do not have to lift the whole contraption to your eye for one, and it is less obvious that you are taking a photo which is benificial for street photograpy and candids. I find focusing and composing the shot with the waistlevel finder easier, you look onto the screen and when rocking back and forth the focusing knob your subject sort of jumps at you when it comes into focus. You will need to get a handheld meter though if you do not already own one.</p>

<p>Check to see if the lens is set to A or M, it should be on A. The 645 should have a nice bright screen. When the lens is set to M the diaphragm closes to the value you set it to to view DOF, but it also darkens the image in the viewfinder making it difficult to focus.</p>

<p>The part of the image missing in the top left hand corner suggests that something ( degraded light seal? ) is hanging in the film gate so a CLA is probably in order and will most likely solve the spacing problem as well.</p>

<p>With the prism finder it is not at all difficult to compose horizontal images. I have to admit that the back I converted to 35mm is the back I use least, but when opportunity presents itself it is great to whip out and burn some low cost film. I got a slightly scratched focusing screen for 10 euros at the local photostore and drew two lines on it with a CD marker, I find that easier to use then a mask.</p>

<p>I have exactly the same ST as described in your link and it says Autoknips on it, so that one is probably a more recent manufacture of the same thing. Expensive though, the ones that appear on ebay are a lot cheaper.</p>

<p>Probably spooling onto a 120 spool and unloading into a changing bag. The clutch design to be able to rewind the film into the cassette is what gave me the biggest problems when converting the A24 back.</p>

<p>Converting an A24 gives you 19-20 exposures depending on how frugal you are at the start of the film. You need metalworking skills and an A24 to sacrifice, the conversion is not reversible.<br>

<a href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3368/3244636912_a5fcfa1c57_o.jpg">http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3368/3244636912_a5fcfa1c57_o.jpg</a></p>

<p>It is the forces of rapid decompression followed by the abrupt stop at the end of its travel that kills springs and to a lesser extend the force of cocking it, not leaving them cocked.</p>

<p>I just wind on and cock it to be ready for the next shot. I doubt if even leaving it cocked for months will seriously "set" the spring.</p>

<p>Frank gave you the golden tip. Get a Rolleifix to avoid damaging the camera's back. As the Rolleifix is quick detachable you will also appreciate it when putting the flash on or taking it off, much less hassle then unscrewing the assembly from the tripod socket. Funny enough the Rollei pistol grip that incorporates the Rolleifix very often sells for less than just the Rolleifix by itsself. The pistol grip can also be fitted with a bracket to mount a flash.</p>

<p>The Rollei 35 usually takes a 24mm and the 35 S a 30.5mm threaded hood. There is a push on hood for the Rollei 35 but that was one piece plastic that looks very different from this hood and I do not think they sold it for long.</p>