roelof_lucas

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<p>If you turn the wheels on the fascia to set the shutterspeed and diaphragm all the way to the end of their travel they should make a definite hard stop and should not feel spongy. Upon reassembly after repair or maintenance it is a big pain to get the followers for the lightmeter properly lined up ( amongst a whole bunch of other linkages.........), so my guess is that might have happened on your camera.</p>

<p>The T model although sporting a superb objective is the least well built of your choices. The shutterspeed and diaphragm values are displayed by means of a plastic ribbon That is prone to failure and almost im possible to repair.<br>

The Rolleicord is the least sophisticated but that also means there is less to derail on it. Advancing the film with the knob instead of the lever is not a big problem <br>

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<p>Movement blur is mainly caused by the person holding whatever camera and not so much the mirror so it depends mostly on you. I can hold my Hasselblad steady for exposures up to 1/2 second and my TLR where I can keep a steady aim trough the screen for up to 1 second. Just look on the internet for gun related techniques for a steady aim and that works fine for cameras too.</p>

<p>My sister once gave me a Lubitel and to my surprise the results were very decent. It was just that I prefered to use a camera rather than an image taking coffee grinder that made sell it.<br /><a href="

<p>Linhof. Even the dinky little reporter tripods from Linhof are ridiculously stable.</p>

<p>Q.G. I have one in perfect nick taking space and making the glass plate of my display sag. Hans knows where to find me.</p>

<p>When in doubt I make one exposure at F8 for 8 seconds using 100ASA film as a failsafe, funny enough those tend to turn out fairly well under most circumstances.</p>

<p>Pull the cover of the meter lightly outwards and see if the needle reacts to light. As the meter is somewhat exposed on the side of the camera it tends to get bumped into things and the tolerances are so small that the needle binds on the cover.<br>

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<p>I have to agree with Ferdi Stutterheim. The T is a pimped Rolleicord trying to pass as a Rolleiflex. The lever instead of gear advance ( on the inside) with friction gear over two little rollers to uncouple the (outside) lever for the return stroke and the belt for the s and f readings are definitely weak points.</p>

<p>Make sure the slide has "Hasselblad" stamped on it. Kiev slides( no markings) will also fit the Hasselblad magazines but are just slightly smaller so you cannot get the back to release.</p>

<p>You can convert a A24 back to take 35mm film. Mine has a clutch to respool the film and you can load it as if it were a 35mm camera. no changing bag needed or other shortcuts. Lots of (fun)work but I can't say I have used it a lot.<br>

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<p>Probably. The body of my 2.8F fits a 3.5F case but the front won't close either.</p>

<p>Probably. The body of my 2.8F fits a 3.5F case but the front won't close either.</p>

<p>I have an old Linhof Technika with a Schneider 150 and it can easily compete with Hasselblad. I am not sure how much of an upgrade it wil be over a Hasselblad though, as you are more or less comparing different approaches to photography over the weakest link the image quality.<br>

Shooting 4x5 however is great fun and any excuse to get a camera for it is a valid one. </p>

<p>I once strapped a Kiev prism onto my 2.8F to explore this concept and quickly shied away from the idea. The camera becomes top heavy and when carried around on the strap it has a tendency to topple away from you, making it more prone to bump into things. Also having to lift the camera to your eye to make, or to decide not to make, a photo makes you appreciate the WLF more.</p>

<p>When you pick it up after hopefully succesful repair, turn the wheels on the fascia that control the shutterspeed and diaphragm to the end of their travel ( F22, s 1/500) the wheels should make a hard positive stop at the end of their travel. If the wheel stops soggily or springy at the end of the travel or are difficult to turn do not bother taking it home. One of the more difficult things in Rolleiflex repair is getting the fascia back on properly with all the controls properly aligned and the spacers in the right places so they don't pinch the controls.</p>

<p>I don't think there will be a lot of wear, all the functions are adjustable it is probably completely out of adjustment after being fiddled with.<br>

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<p>Not really, other than using wires directly from the battery with one of those 9v snap connector tabs that can be bought for a few cents in electronics stores and hooking the plus- red wire and minus- black wire the wrong way around on the battery contacts.</p>

<p>As far as I am aware the diode is merely there to ensure the proper polarity in the circuit. Perhaps it is not the ELM but your battery thingy that is the cause, try running it directly on a 9v battery without your adapter. My ELM runs very nicely on a rechargeable 9v block battery. And perhaps it is safer to buy an el cheapo, rubbish no name brand to try, when I ran my ELM without film in it on Duracell it derailed as it sort of got ahead of itself by the sheer power of those.</p>

<p>Sorry, did not keep pictures, the lever going up into the sidel is the interruptor that is pushed over by a pawl in the sprocketwheel. It might be as easy as slightly bending the lever. On mine it was not, took me forever to get it back together again.<br>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/72157169@N00/5856680156/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/72157169@N00/5856680156/</a><br>

If that does not help I think the best is to let it cycle with the side plate off so you can see why it is pushed over more on current( the motor then stops) than by battery power. On mine the barn door mechanism was the problem so I never bothered to look too closely at the motor nor the interceptor mechanism. From what I remember the cocking excenter had roughly 1,5mm of overdraw and the sear a contact surface of 1mm. If you are as unwise as me to allow the mainspring to go slack, it needs three turns of the wheel to be properly tensioned. Always err on the side of caution once you are lost you are LOST !</p>

<p>I remeber there being a ( micro) cut off switch somewhere that is depressed by a lever when the cycle is completed. The fix should not be that difficult ( and hopefully inexpensive)</p>

<p>The circuit has little risk of damage as the motor comes off as a selfcontained unit. The fuse is always a good buy in case you need a spare.<br>

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<p>Clean the contacts with a pencil eraser, nothing too abrasive, and see what happens. The battery contacts might still be oxidized although visibly more or less clean.</p>

<p>You would need flashbulbs to actually check that it works, or ruin photos taken with an electronic flash with the lever set to "M", as the flash then fires before the shutter even opens. I would leave it alone. Pivoting the lever outwards ( counter clockwise on the thumbnail) winds up the self timer and you would not be the first to have a blocked 3.5F because the ST sticks halfway through.........</p>