ben_nauber

<p>So, I've noticed what my untrained eye suspects is a light leak. See the included photos. Is this a light leak? Also, how would I go about fixing it?<br>

<img src="http://i44.tinypic.com/120p8qo.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="817" /><br>

<img src="http://i43.tinypic.com/29fbbdd.jpg" alt="" width="827" height="1000" /><br /><br /></p>

 

 

<p>Apologies, I don't think I was very clear. I get what the light baffle is. It's controlled by the lock/unlock switch on the side and it allows you to change lenses without exposing the film. I'm talking about that little metal piece on the front of the body. When you put the lens in, it sits directly underneath the shutter cocking lever on the lens. I'm guessing when you advance the film, it's supposed to cock the lens shutter as you wind the lever? Well, that doesn't happen anymore. The only way that I can get the shutter to fire is if I cock the shutter manually first before pressing the button. </p>

 

 

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<p>Hi all,</p>

<p>First a little background: Mamiya C330. Was doing a long exposure with a cable release. Thought I closed the shutter (but apparently hadn't) and advanced the film while the shutter was open. This ended the role of film but also made the film advance winder difficult to move. Regrettably, I forced it until it loosened up and wound through the end of the film.</p>

<p>Since then, the shutter on the body will not fire. I've tried removing the lens (lens functions perfectly), opening/closing the back, switching from single to multi-exposure, but nothing fires the shutter on the body. Don't know if that's the write lingo, but basically the small metal switch on the body (the shutter cocking lever?) is immovable and hence doesn't allow for the shutter on the lens to cock. </p>

<p>Does anyone know what might have happened? Will it require a professional repair/CLA or is it something that I can fix? Also, I'm in San Francisco... can anyone recommend anyone good in the Bay Area?</p>

<p>Best,<br>

Ben Nauber</p>

<p>I'm supposed to shoot the interiors of some houses for an interior designer friend. I haven't used my 65mm lens yet and I was wondering if it would wide enough for some close-quarters, indoor shooting. Or do I need to pickup the 50mm?</p>

<p>Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!</p>

<p>Recently got back a roll of processed film where a sticker used to identify the negatives was placed directly on the last/first (?) image of the roll. I inquired about this, as it left a permanent marking on the negative, and they said it was because I wasn't accurate with my film loading. He said that if it continues to be a problem, that I might crank the film half an inch past the the film-loading stop arrow.<br>

Is this true? Can anyone comment on this? I'm shooting with a Yashica Mat 124G by the way.</p>

 

<p>gregory, it's AA... how much for a spring?</p>

<p>perhaps this is more of a simple hardware question than a camera question, but i figure you all would know best. one of the battery springs for my minolta maxxum 7000 popped out and disappeared into the grass below me. Now, of course, the battery will not fit in there. does anyone know any diy solutions? thanks much!</p>

<p>thanks!</p>

<p>So, a friend of mine recently broke/lost her Canon AE-1 film advance lever. Apparently, the lever popped off and she lost it as well as a spring inside the camera. How is the best way to get this repaired and who does the best repairs? I take it Canon doesn't do AE-1s anymore.</p>

<p>And, bonus question, how much would you guys estimate the damage being?</p>

<p>Thanks much.</p>

<p>Sorry to send you all down the Nikon F2 track. I was just using that as an example of a high-quality manual camera. If what I'm hearing is right though, sounds like there isn't necessarily an inherent advantage to shooting with a manual camera. It's more about what kind of lenses are compatible with your camera body. That about right?</p>

<p>Thanks much everyone!</p>

<p>I apologize, I'm not well-versed in the world of 35mm. Photo.net gods, please enlighten me.</p>

<p>I have a Minolta Maxxum 7000. Produces nice photos as far as I can tell. I'm thinking of purchasing a manual camera (likely a Nikon F2 based on the general consensus), but I'd like to know what the advantages to having say something like Nikon over my Minolta. I understand that one is manual and another electronic/AF... beyond that though? Is there a big difference in quality?</p>

<p>And another question... let's say I get a new lens for my Minolta. Would it fit on a Nikon F2 as well?</p>

<p>Any help would be greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>I'm sorry if this has been covered ad nauseum. I searched and didn't seem to find anything.</p>

<p>thank you kindly, that was very helpful !</p>

<p>Ah, and lastly... how much time is okay between winding and firing? Is like, 10 minutes okay?</p>

<p>awesome, thanks!</p>

<p>I was told once that I should never leave my shutter cocked for an extended period of time. Doing so wears out whatever mechanisms are used to cock and fire and hence blows out your shutter. Is this true? If so, do you folks with Yashica Mat 124Gs and other like cameras wind and backwind immediately before your shot? Also, is it still bad if I only wind and not backwind? Or is all winding off-limits, so to speak? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!</p>

<p>35mm color seems to be quick, but BW and 120 tend to take too long.</p>

<p>What's the turnaround at HCL? Are the prices much different?</p>

<p>I have a Yashicamat 124G. I know my camera can shoot either 12 or 24 exposures, but I have no idea how many exposures are on a roll of 120 film (400tx for example). Should I just assume it's 24? It doesn't say on the packaging.</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>So, I've been using Yodobashi (west exit) for my processing but I've found that sometimes my film can take anywhere between 3-11 days to be processed. I don't need it to be overnight, but I sure don't want to wait a week and half.</p>

<p>I've heard that Horiuchi is good. Has anyone used them? What's the turnaround?</p>

<p>Any other recommendations? I'd prefer labs in or around Shinjuku.</p>

<p>Note: I shoot 135 and 120 in both BW and color.</p>