charlessalomons
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Posts posted by charlessalomons
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The one that I tried did, and I assumed that was the case in general. Let me see if I can borrow another one to compare
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Ken, Michael,
Thanks for your replies. Here are some more images, I think there are no shims,
<img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5576/14915403065_ff7e2d15c1_z_d.jpg">
<img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3858/14915403595_df4b7e5520_z_d.jpg">
<img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5551/14915404225_4fc7cf5554_z_d.jpg">
<br>
This is a pic of another focus screen hat fits but has no split screen and so I find it very hard to focus accurately when shooting wide open. Like the split screen on, it has no "feet"
<img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5596/14728742719_ea779a54a8_z_d.jpg">
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Dear fellow Hasselblad users,
Got a 500C a while ago and the I am having a great time with it.
The body is from 1971, and has an interchangeable focus screen that is scratched and I would like to replace.
<img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5572/14718240368_277761b09d_b_d.jpg">
<a
mons/14718240368/</a>
I tried some other screens from ebay, but they don't fit because the metal holders surrounding the screen have
raised feet on the corners which raise them higher. Anybody any idea what part number to look for a new
screen (with a split screen in the middle) at reasonable cost ?
Many thanks, Charles
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Maybe you should try to recover the files with Rescue Pro - a piece of software from Sandisk
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You can stay with PSE. Dewrinkle by putting a layer on top of the portrait that has gaussian blur and then cut out features like the mouth, eyes, hair, etc. You should be able to find several tutorials on the web, or get one of Scott Kelby's books on PSE editing that has a detailed description in it.
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85 mm 1.8 is my favorite lens. L Quality glass, super sharp, fantastic color, fast, good bokeh. My next favortie would be the 50mm 1.8.
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I would consider a Canon P. Much better rangefinder than the Kiev and better relaibility. Takes LTM lenses so your lens investment is not waisted when you upgrade to Leica M. Is usually sold with a 50mm 1.8 which is excellent. You could also consider a Leica CL with a dead meter cell. Sells on 'bay for $200 or so.
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Everyday: Leica CL w 40mm Cron-C, 25mm VC
For photo trips: Canon 40D, 17-85 / 70-200 / 10-22
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Tenba Messenger. Quick access from the top, low profile
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I use a small moleskin to sketch-out ideas and another one where I keep a log of settings etc of my best pics
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I can sell you mine for a song. One of the indicator needles is broken but the camre is full functional. Nikon didn't have spare parts anymore but I am sure a repair tech could make one functional one out of two broken ones.
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<p>Would consider a mechanical film camera. Leica, Some Canon FD and some Nikon models, potentially a Hassy</p>
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Just got a Leica CL w 40mm Cron-C for exactly that purpose.
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40D w 10-22, 17-85, 70-200 when out and about. Leica CL when I feel like doing something artistic.
Canon P&S to carry with me all the time
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All,
Thank you for your empathy and advice.
First used the camera for a bit with a handheld meter. Worked out OK for 400CN B&W film, which is quiet tolerant of exposure mistakes. However my attempts to use Velvia 100(?) were quiet disastrous. Decided in the end that to get full use and pleasure (the reason I got it in the first place) out of the camera, I should get it fixed. Total repair of the Cell, PCB, film spool and CLA was CHF 500 or roughly US$450. Economically boarderline senseless, but I figured better spend the money and have a fully checked camera than participate agian in the 'bay lottery. Funnily enough Leica sent me the changed parts back with the camera. When I got the camera back it felt differently, probably all in my head.
Will start using it intensively and lookign forward to sharing my best work on this forum.
Thanks again
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Have both as well and I agree. However, once I started using Silverfast with Multi-scan turned on the results of the Nikon got better. For Flickr posts and prints to A3 the grain is fine enough, if you like it a bit grainy. Also, I feel the scans are not as soft as the V500 ones. Lastly, I hated the V500 film holder, the feeding mechanism on the Nikon is much better. For 120 / 330 format though I think the V500 is the best value.
Film pics, scanned w V500 unless noted otherwise
http://www.flickr.com/photos/charlessalomons/sets/72157622386753777/detail/
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I have a Coolscan IV which I mainly use to scan B&W film (C41 as well as traditional), to my satisfaction.
Recently, I tried to scan a strip of Velvia (color positive film) and the scanner gives error messages saying that it is
impossible to autofocus. Tried both with the Nikon software as well as Silverfast so the issue seems independent of
the software. Any suggestions beyond going to manual focus ?
Many thanks !
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Thanks for the advice.
Put a Weincell in it but doesn't make a difference. Played around with the film winder to see if was a loose contact.
After I recieved it, I cleaned it and became attached to it. Could have returned it for a refund, but will have it fixed if it doesn't make economical sense. Actually, turns out that Leica Switzerland is still repairing. Interesting customer service experience to be talking to the guy who is actually going to do the repair and who shows some empathy rather then talking to some anonymous CSR in a call center. Hope to be posting pictures soon. Thanks again.
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Why don't you drop a note to the site owner ?
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Just got myself a Leica CL, always lusted for it and saw a good deal on the great auction site from a reputable dealer.
Was aware of dead meter cells and upon arrival I checked and I think Imight have gotten a lemon. I performed the
following tests:
1) Put in a battery – after pushing the battery test button the meter moves. This means that the circuit board is in
working order as well as the meter.
2) Took off the lens. When the shutter is cocked, the light meter is in front of the lens as it Is supposed to. The
cell looks clean,
3) When changing the shutter speed dial, the light meter moves – this means that the mechanical connection is
working.
4) The light meter centers when set on ½ second exposure at 400 ISO and moves when the ISO value is changed
5) When moving the aperture ring, the diaphragm closes but the light meter does not move.
6) When aiming the camera at a lamp or to a dark surface, the light meter does not move.
Also,before buying the camera I downloaded the manual and studied it, so I think I know what I am doing.
Would appreciate any suggestions of tests i overlooked. Also any indication of repair cost would be appreciated. Am
based in Switzerland but will ship it to wherever to get it fixed.
Many thanks in advance.
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Have you tried Multiscan ?
Silverfast can do it
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Have an E as well. Was my first medum format camera. Happy with it. Also, Mamiya lenses are very high quality and relatively cheap. The only accessory I know of is a rapid winder that mounts on the right side. Would get a light meter and tripod too. Enjoy !
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Had the same problem.It disappeared when I expanded my memory. In particular when the library in Elements has a couple of thousand of images, it needs 4GB. Good luck.
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www.hobbylab.ch is an example of a Swiss company that I have used to my satisfaction.
Also, if you are in the Zurich area, Photo Ganz offers development and scanning services
500C Interchangeable focus screen
in Medium Format
Posted
Michael,
Thanks, here are the pics of the backside of my screens, they don't have the indents or shaped edges
<br>
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This is the back of the standard screen with the cross like yours<br>
<img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/14731838797_a5e0d3e317_z_d.jpg">
<br>
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This is from the screen with the split screen<br>
<img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3925/14731736960_fa54a88e8f_z_d.jpg">
<br>
<br>
and another pic from a different angle showing it doesn't have the indents / feet /shaped corners etc.
<br>
<img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3922/14731802978_e63a813e96_z_d.jpg">