ellea

<p>Thanks guys :) I developed it and luckily none of the images were damaged.</p>

<p>Okay, so I just got a Yashica-C TLR, takes 120 film. <br /><br />Got up to shot 12 (last exposure), finished and began to wind film to the end of the roll. <br /><br />The window showed a red circle and it seemed like the film wasn't winding anymore, so I assumed it would be safe to open. <br /><br />Anyway I opened it and I saw on the film "EXPOSED". I don't know how much more needed to be wound on, but I shut it again and kept winding, and this time it all wound on and I took the film out. <br /><br />Does anyone know whether I will lose any/all/some of the exposures? <br /><br />They're not overly important, it's just a test roll and I'd like to see how this thing works since it's an old camera sold to me in working order.</p>

<p>Does anyone know of any photo books showing urban decay? I don't care if the images are all by one artist or from various... It seems really hard to find anything like this so help is really appreciated.<br /> Thank you.</p>

<p>Excellent - thanks Grant. Do you know where I can find the bag and the tripod attachment for a good price online?<br>

I found the bag on eBay from a trusty looking seller for about $150 AUD which seems like the right price but I can't find the tripod attachment on eBay. What is the exact name of it?</p>

<p>Grant, I'm virtually sold on the KATA 3N1-30, my only question is, is there someone of attaching my Manfrotto tripod to it? It's a 190xProB, a 'normal' size (not a mini one).</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I'm trying to find a bag that fits all of the above gear snugly and that I can also put personal belongings in - phone, wallet, etc.<br>

I will be using it mainly to transport the gear around the city or on public transport, and occasionally maybe for bush walks. I was looking at the Lowepro Mini Trekker, but I get the feeling it is too big for what I need to carry.<br>

I've already done a bit of research looking at some Lowepros, but I can't seem to find one that's just right. They all seem too big or too small.<br>

Advice is really appreciated.<br>

Elle</p>

<p>Ray, it is supposed to be black and white...</p>

<p>Alec - I forgot to mention that I asked them to look at it on their screens, and when I saw it it looked the same as it does on mine... I assume that means it will be accurately printed then?</p>

<p>Alec, they are very a very reputable professional lab, and when I dropped it in to be printed today they told me that their computer was calibrated and that it would look very similiar to the way it looked on my monitor.</p>

<p>So I decided not to get a test print done - I will see the results tomorrow and let you know how it looks.</p>

<p>Thanks for the advice.</p>

<p>Hi guys,<br>

I'm a photography student and next week we are having a class exhibition. I need to produce an A1 print for it. I have taken a black and white photo with my Canon 50D. The file is a TIFF 16 bit, processed from RAW.<br>

I have been advised that it is a good idea to get a test print done so that nothing goes wrong with the final print. I know this is a great idea, the only problem is I have limited time to get it done. The printers will take 3 - 4 days to do it normally, but I contacted them and if I give it to them before 3pm today they can have it done tomorrow. The thing is I don't want to hand them a file for the test print, then see it tomorrow, then ask them to print the final one because I don't think they will have it done in time.<br>

<br /> My question is, should I DEFINITELY be doing a test print, or is it something I can skip on if I'm fairly sure the resolution will be okay for A1?<br>

<br /> I will attach a JPG of the file if that helps.</p>

<p>Thanks for helping!</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks all. I would probably buy a new lens rather than secondhand. Warranty would be a handy thing to have on such an expensive lens.<br>

@ Brian - that is an incredible picture</p>

<p>I've decided I will get the 10-22. Seems like a better idea for now and the next couple of years at least.<br>

A, do you know where I can buy the 10-22 secondhand online?</p>

<p>Alan, I guess that's true. However, I have read that soon everything will be moving towards FF, which worries me. If I invest in the 10-22, and then I can't sell it for very much, that would be a problem. If I'm going to have it for a few years though, I suppose it's worth it... which I will. I'll have the 50D for at least another 3 years I would say.</p>

<p>Thanks for the feedback everyone.<br>

I am really pretty reluctant to buy the 10-22 and have to sell it later. It would take me quite a while to save up the money to buy either of the lenses mentioned and so it seems to make more sense to buy something that I will have for a longer period of time like the 17-40mm. <br /> Is there a place I can see sample photos of the 17-40mm with the 50D as opposed to with a FF? I'd like to be able to see the comparison.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I recently acquired a Canon 50D as a birthday gift, with a 24-105mm lens. I also purchased the 100mm macro lens since I do a lot of macro work. I'm thinking that both these lenses cover me for a great deal of what I'll use the camera for - macro, portraiture, and landscapes. However I'd still like to get a wider angle for landscapes. I'd like to know what you guys would recommend in this area. I want an EF lens so that when I upgrade to a FF in a few years time I can take the lenses with me. I'd prefer a Canon lens because I love the way they are built and the quality they give, but if I can be convinced otherwise, then a third party lens would be fine too.<br>

Thank you for the feedback :)<br>

<br /> Elle</p>

<p><strong>Diana -</strong> I didn't see a 5D at the store, and I can't seem to find it online in a few Australian stores I've looked at (I live in Oz). Do you know if perhaps it goes by a different name?<br>

<strong>John - </strong> You shot with Ansel Adams? That's incredible! His photos are brilliant.<br>

I really want to do macro work, so the 60mm lens is important. I don't think my folks will spend that much but I would really prefer a 5d mkii simply because it is a better model. Unless I can convince them that it is really a big difference going for the 5d.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

<br /> My folks are getting me a dslr for my 21st. They are looking at the 50D and the 5D MkII. Money is a consideration for them.<br>

I spoke to the guy at the electronics store about the two cameras and he said if price is an issue, then he would reccommend going for the 50D and getting a couple of lenses rather than the 5D MkII with just one lens. <br /> I would be getting the 50D with a 24-105 lens and a 60mm lens which the guy said would cover what I want to use the camera for - <strong>macro, portraiture, and landscape. </strong> I have a passion for <strong>very low light night photography </strong> (see my portfolio), but I will probably keep using my 35mm film camera for that unless the 50D is good for that sort of thing?<br>

Also, I'm a photography student, and I'll probably be blowing up photos to A1 size for some assignments. Will the 50D be able to handle this?<br>

Anyway, what I want to know is, am I missing out on much if I score a 50D as opposed to a 5D? By the way, the video function of the 5D isn't something I'm really interested in.<br>

<br /> Thanks for sharing your knowledge :-)</p>

<p>Craig,<br>

<br /> Thanks for the advice. Actually, my dad and I were trying to fix it and we worked it out. It turned out the lens had to be aligned a certain way, otherwise the lever would not cock. I could not see in the manual that I had to do that - he just stumbled across it as he tried different things.</p>

 

<p>Hi,<br>

I recently purchased a second hand RB67 Professional and I am having problems cocking the shutter lever. It will not depress. I have tried a lot of things - taking the dark slide out, checking the actual shutter button - it is unlocked. I have read over the manual but it doesn't seem to cover my problem. Any suggestions of things I can try?<br>

Cheers,<br>

Elle</p>

 

<p>I think it will be a 308s for me. I can't really afford a 358 at the moment and I don't need such a feature-heavy meter. In a few years time, perhaps I will, so I think I will save it until then.</p>

<p>I see. What exactly is a PocketWizard?</p>

<p>Bob,<br>

It is indeed the 308s Flashmate, and it is actually brand new, so I guess it is worth it since KEH have roughly the same price.<br>

Incident and reflected, I think that's what I need. I don't have much to spend on it anyway, so for now that one sounds good.<br>

Thanks, it does help.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I need a lightmeter to use with my Mamiya RB67. I've heard a lot of good things about the Sekonic L308 and I thought I'd go for that. Is $170USD a good price to pay for it? That's how much I have found it for on the bay.<br>

I'm new to lightmeters in regards to the terminology, but is it true that this lightmeter does "both" kinds of readings?<br>

<br /> Thanks for the help guys.<br>

<br /> Elle</p>

<p>Film will not die amongst those that consider photography an artistic, aesthetic medium. I am 20 and just bought myself a Mamiya RB67 Pro-S. At my university we are learning how to use medium format cameras, and previously we were taught to shoot 35mm and process/print ourselves in the darkroom.<br>

Digital may be quicker, easier, and more affordable, but film has qualities over digital that can never be bridged. A film camera can handle difficult lighting situations much more aptly than a digital camera.<br>

A vote here for film!</p>

<p>Hi all,<br>

Thanks for your input.<br>

As it were, I bidded on a ProS with a 90mm lens tonight on eBay and won! In total, including postage, it's costing me USD$336. I'm very happy with the purchase.<br>

Thanks again for all your advice - it is very much valued.<br>

Elle</p>