robert_jackson6

<p>The T&C are fairly standard fare for publishing content on a web page and to enter contests. Essentially you need to grant them permissions in order to allow them to post the photos. Your choice. I recall similar flaps over various and sundry iphone apps when users submit content for the contest. Hipstamatic handled it fairly well explaining to everybody that they don't want your pictures, nor any rights to them, but to post them up they need the license. </p>

<p>I'm pretty sure I'm not doing that. I would like to see others thoughts on moo and how folks are promoting. I didn't think a promo code was disallowed here, and thought my link was just to see if anyone had any thoughts on how to market stuff. Sorry if I've offended though. Mods can do their bidding :)<br>

That wasn't me removing the link so mods are doing what they will. I'll review the TOS here and stay in-topic. Thanks. </p>

<p>Hello,<br /> My wife has been using moo for a while now to make her personalized little business cards. She includes these with her Etsy shop items and hands them out in order to drum up business for her consignments. <br /> Here is a link to a review of <a href="<a href="http:/factoidz.com/moo-business-cards-review-and-promo-code/">moo business cards</a> as well as a promo code<br /> How does everyone else do it? Is there anyone else doing what moo is (that is cheap, unique, custom business cards)? <br /> Has anyone found good results using them? Is there more of an impact for family photography, baby portraits, events, weddings, bar mitzvahs?</p>

<p>You, the person taking the photograph, are the photographer. A "better" or more expensive camera does not automatically take "great pictures". The artist (you) use the camera (his/her tool) as a weapon in his/her arsenal.</p>

<p>The reason your cell phone takes "better" pictures, and that point and shoot comes out better, is that those particular cameras are dumbed down and created for the general public to come along and press a button. It sees the Hugely bright sky - and brings down the exposure to compensate. WHen processing the photograph, the cameras CPU notices it blown out and brings up the brightness of the darker areas. Its all automatic! <br /> Picture a cell phone camera and a point and shoot as a big rubber stamp containing the scene already there, and the slr style camera as a paintbrush and pallette. It's actually fairly difficult to get such a contrasty scene such as your second photo. The digital image sensor has less dynamic range than film so the best approach is to simply return to the location of the photograph when the sun isn't so bright such as dawn or dusk. That brings its own set of challenges :)<br /> As for the first one - this is a classic "depth of field" issue. When shooting wide open, the depth of field (distance in which items are in focus) is very narrow. If you intended the entire flower in focus, stop down 1 or 1 full stops (and adjust shutter speed down as well 1 or 2 stops, or increase ISO 1 or 2 stops to compensate). I'm noting you intended a narrow DOF, but I think that with some of the bottom bit of the flower coming at you, you perhaps should have increased that DOF a litttle bit and maybe focussed ever so closer to you. (I find the blurry bits of the petals leading to the in-focus stamens/pistil or whatever a little distracting. I would also bring back just a touch to get more of the flower itself. That the petals cut off at the edges is also a bit distracting. You can always crop later, and I try to not have lines leading out of the composition that don't resolve (suddenly end). <br>

I also don't get the issue with the third - I see the subject as the cross, but the sky dominates. Good use of negative space, but I see heavy shadow with the cross. Maybe that was not intended. If not, the issue is that there is a LOT of light from the sky. Again - revisit with different lighting and try again. Spot metering would let you expose the subject properly but the sky would be blown out. See my first point. One cheat I've found is to fit a circular polarizer on the lens. It will help bring out prettier skies and can often tone down the bright bright sky a touch letting you get the subject without such heavy shadow.</p>

<p>Greg, That is the control for "continuous auto exposure". What you should do is to have that on, manually select the normal 35mm frame area (which will cause an "autoexposure", since you are only exposing the intended normal 35mm area, it will show up OK),</p>

<p>Next go turn it off.<br>

When off you can then change the selected area without having it re-expose. Scan, rinse, and repeat.</p>

<p>See if you just turn it off than you would need to manually expose the scan. It's quicker to have the program autoexpose, then sort of "lock it". then resize.</p>

<p>SO turn it on, Select 35mm area (or really any area with a wide gamut of colors, something important to the image, preferably as much as possible without selecting the sprocket holes)<br>

Then go turn it off, now select the area beyond the sprockets.<br>

Then scan.</p>

<p>Here are some screenies that will lead you to the "autoexposure" setting.</p>

<p><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a110/bobdole369/1_epsonscan.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a110/bobdole369/half_epsonscan.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a110/bobdole369/2_epsonscan.jpg" alt="" /></p>

 

<p>Good to hear that this is not intended to be the case. I will work with her and actually read the manual. WHat she is seeing is that the flash is not going off when she expects it to. She found the only way to get the flash to go off is to use the 50mm prime lens, or adjust the 28-135mm to the very wide end. Then she read about the 28mm and 50mm "zoom" option and assumed that it would only work on those focal lengths.</p>

<p>As far as coverage areas, that would be fine, but should it not always go off when expected?</p>

<p>Hi all, I buy my wife a 270EX speedlite flash as she has never owned a hot-shoe type flash and neither have I. </p>

<p>It seems she is only able to activate the flash when focal length is exactly 28 or exactly 50mm?</p>

<p>Could this be true? I was not aware that a flash could be limited in such a way!</p>

<p>My wife went 350d (rebel xt) -> 50d and hasn't looked back. The only time she takes back her hand-me-down is when we are out doing star trails or long exposures - because she had the wireless remote shutter release.</p>

<p>Liveview (IMHO I don't like it, she swears by it for still life and nature)<br>

HUGE bump in resolution - 8mp -> 15mp<br>

HUGE increase in usable ISO (IMO 400 is barely usable in dark scenes on the 350d - 1600 is about the upper limit in the 50d)<br>

Much faster camera reactions, picture styles, a LOT more AF points, the list goes on and on. In short - you won't be sorry about the upgrade. Maybe you would if you went from a higher end EOS to the 50d, but 300d -> 50d is a very nice jump.</p>

<p>The noise issue is indeed true, compared to the 40d, but compared to your 300d - its not noticeable, its totally better.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>To each his own I suppose. But my 350d (rebel xt) has been around the block, thrown into bags, jumbled around in the car, at the beach, on planes, road trips, camping, hiking, through the everglades and keys countless times over the past 3+ years - something like 40k images, and nary a scratch on the original acrylic screen protector thats already there.</p>

<p>My experience with the stick on screen protectors (at least with PDA's and phones) - the cheap tear off ones are more trouble to keep on then they are worth. The expensive ones (like the Zagg Invisible shield - which I HIGHLY recommend for any useful, clear, breakable, scratchable glass/plastic) - are worth much more then their weight in gold.</p>

<p>There is already a screen protector on it. It's nigh on unscratchable. I see no need.</p>

<p>I linked my flickr account a few times in my feed to about 120 real-life acquaintances wihtout any intention of advertising, just sharing some weather stuff, and some still lifes with family and work mates, and picked up 3 leads I never would have otherwise from word of mouth. I'm only semi-pro (i.e. I have a real job still), and 3 solid days of work is likely going to be a nice bonus next month.<br>

I wouldn't actually pay for anything, WOM is the only way.</p>

<p>Samsung Syncmaster 997df - 19" CRT 4:3. I'll use it until it explodes, then take it apart and fix it, and use it some more. Beats every single LCD I've seen.</p>

<p>Up the coast a ways (long drive about an hour and a half) is "Blowing Rocks Nature Preserve" near Jupiter - exposed limestone that during high tide and high surf waves crash into the rock and blows through the holes and makes for some really cool seascapes.<br>

Big Cypress national wildlife refuge has "loop road" - a dirt road with canals alongside. Excellent for gators and some gph, ibis, egrets, etc. Trees line the road so its not the best for sweeping vistas.<br>

Everglades National park as others mentioned.<br>

Taking the water taxi through the canals is a fun way to see boats and houses you'll never be able to afford.<br>

Tradewinds park in Coconut creek (where Butterfly world exists) has horses and barnyard animals and a miniature railroad - along with another plug for Butterfly World.<br>

Fern Forest is a cypress wetlands preserve in Margate - Not really landscapes, but some birds and trees.<br>

If you go north past hillsboro blvd on the beach you will reach the "Hillsboro Mile" which is sort of picturesque - more houses you'll never afford and some yachts, but some very accessible intracoastal shots.<br>

Fort Lauderdale is a concrete jungle - you really can't find that much unless you head into the everglades or north. My wife and I struggle with it every weekend it seems.</p>

<p>Nope, not exactly flooded. It's not as dry as usual - but it is definitely dry season. Once you get into june and july you can no longer go there until octoberish, then from nov-may or so it dries up.</p>

<p>Downtown fort lauderdale - The New River is sort of a creek, so is the dania cutoff canal. You didn't mention which county, but anywhere in palm beach, dade, broward is criss-crossed with literally THOUSANDS of canals for water management. Have you looked out your back window? Anywhere in big cypress (all along loop road is surrounded by a creek teeming with gators) - Everglades national park abounds with water flow in the summer - if you brave the grapefruit size mosquitos</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Forgive me for resurrecting this thread - but I just went through the same thing here in Broward - close enough to Miami where you would consider going there for your processing. </p>

<p>There are 2 labs in Broward County - both in or just outside Fort Lauderdale.</p>

<p>Dale Labs - www.dalelabs.com is at 2960 Simms Street - just north of Sheridan off 29th avenue. When you go down Simms street you will miss it the first time as its set way back on the left side. Decent selection of gear, lenses, bodies, digital stuff, tripods, lights, etc, no 120 film, but scads of very good 35mm on the rack. The young feller (my age actually - about 30) says they do 120 on-site next day service. I didn't have any to develop - I was there looking for 120 film. Their site says they do c-41 and e-6 and 4x5's .</p>

<p>Chromatek Imaging - http://chromatekphoto.com/ at 3400 Powerline Rd in Fort Lauderdale. between oakland and commercial on the east side of the street. I JUST had some C-41 120 done with them. It came out EXCELLENT not a scratch on it, not a bit of dust, colors are spot on - negatives uncut at my request (was using a manual advance - very inaccurately), they put them in a negative sleeve and in a nice little box for my wife. They will do cross-process (c-41 film in E-6 chemistry, or E-6 film in C-41 chemistry). It was $11 and change to get me back 2 rolls of negatives. I think thats expensive for just developing, but whatever they are local. They just reduced the number of runs to a single one per day. In by 10 - out by 1 - or next day after 1 will be ready. I have not inquired about 120 film availability- they have a little bin with "expired" film out front and a fridge with some sheet film, but there is no store front per se. They seem to be just processing so no gear either.</p>

<p>The only place in the county I found 120 film - was the big wolf camera on Sunrise. Shopkeep had 2 rolls of B&W (Ilford HP5 and Kodak 400TX) 120. Thats it. Oh and the Urban Outfitters in the Aventura Mall has some "lomo brand" 120 B&W. I didn't buy it at $18/3 pack. The Wolf in the Aventura mall also claimed to be "out of 120 today". I'll check the Ritz on University/Royal Palm in Coral Springs tonight - my hopes are not high that they will even know what 120 film IS let alone whether or not they actually sell it - or where it is in the store. Luckily its a small place :)</p>

<p>Hope this helps someone somewhere.</p>

<p>Yup this is what my wife does. It's easiest to use a photolab where the employees don't change much. Specify that you ONLY want developing, and to get the negatives back uncut. Then tell them again not to cut your negatives. Then specify uncut negatives again.<br>

Once they get it they come out OK. Once my wife almost murdered the poor girl when she blindly cut right through several pictures that happened to come out about where you cut normal 35mm shots for 4 negatives per sheet.<br>

Then she scans them - and either uploads the images with the sprockets, or brings them in on a flash card.</p>