john_demarco

<p>Hello everyone, running a bit late today! Here is one from my oldest son's soccer game this past weekend.</p><div></div>

Some people have risked it, and had no problems. Others have risked it and the voltage fried their dslr. To be safe, if you

want to stick with an all manual flash that you are used to, pick up a vivitar 285 HV model. I forget the exact specs, but

the voltage is safe for dslr's. you can do a search here or google etc, for details, reviews, and specs from digital shooters

who use it.

Your TC14EII will work with an AF-I lens, it just won't AF with the older screw drive lenses because they are designed to

work with the internal focus motor lenses. That is the reason I had to pick up a Kenko T/C to AF with mine. Just a heads

up, I almost went for an AF-I version, but did a search, and apparently parts are extremely difficult, if not impossible to

find at this point. Good luck with the purchase, and let us know what you choose, happy shooting!

<p>Hi Tom, for what it's worth I was in the same boat as you and wound up finding a super clean pre AF-I AF Nikkor 300 2.8. When soothing sports, I always use a monopod, so VR really wasn't an issue for me, another strongpoint of this lens is no internal focus motor. Maybe not a big deal for some folks, but I see it as a bonus. The only downside is that I had to also pick up a third party T/C to keep AF with this lens when I already have a TC14E. Here is an image taken with it. <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17652941-md.jpg" alt="" width="485" height="680" /></p>

<p> </p>

<p>Excellent images everyone! My contribution for today was taken at a car show, when the weather was warm and we didn't have any snow on the ground.</p><div></div>

<p>Just a little reminder that old man winter is still here!</p><div></div>

I bought my D200 in June of 2008, my 2 original batteries still read new also. I have just over 30k clicks on it, and

thankfully have not had any battery issues. When i charge them, I rotate their places in the grip, don't know if that has

any effect, but so far, so good.

Got it at KEH.

<p>Hello everyone, back in November i asked for some advice on a 300 2.8. Just wanted to thank everyone that kindly responded, and let you know what i wound up with. I found a super clean, pre AF-I version ED-AF that came with the CT-303 hard case. The lens looks like it just came from the factory, glass is 100% scratch and fungus free, lens body and hood look brand new except for one faint mark on the outside of hood. The lens came with the 39mm filter holder, and factory Nikon lens cap. The strap rings on the lens body have zero paint loss as well. The hard case shows no signs of use, and came with keys.<br /> I also picked up an equally clean Kenko pro 1.4 T/C. I am still saving for an AF-S version, but this got me in the door, and i figure i could always sell this one or trade it when the time comes. I really haven't had a chance to test it extensively yet, but so far i am very pleased with this setup. Who knows, maybe i will keep this one and keep saving for a longer lens in the future. Like i mentioned in the original post, i am mostly concentrating on sports, my oldest son plays basketball in the winter, so i have been using my 80-200 AF-S for that. Come spring this combo will be out on the soccer field for more use.<br /> Here are some photos that i shot as a test, the first two are just the straight lens. The last one is with the T/C attached. I am giving the T/C the benefit of the doubt because it was cold that day, and even though i used a monopod there still could be a bit of camera movement. I do think it is acceptable though.<br /><br /><br>

<img src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff99/4valveduc/8367a232-a66d-471e-aa44-b4bf706c8bb8_zps53dc4206.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="594" /><img src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff99/4valveduc/baad640b-c3d7-4b4e-80f9-282fca64c9d7_zps7bf2d4fd.jpg" alt="" width="499" height="700" /><img src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff99/4valveduc/4f7580a8-18a2-4b49-8cc1-5bfd1af79a9e_zps2aa186f3.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="578" /></p>

Hey John, Andrew makes a good suggestion about the 70-300VR. I have one of those also, outdoors with good light it

works very well. I have never had credentials or a vest either, but have always managed to get some decent motorsports

photos. If you like I could post up some images taken with the 70-300.

I wound up going with the AF-S version. Found a good example on KEH, and also picked up a TC-14E converter with it.

VR was a non issue for me because I use a monopod as often as I can. Great lens that teams up pretty well with the T/C.

Shot this one with the above combination.<div></div>

That's awesome, congratulations and happy shooting to you!

<p>Happy Nikon Wednesday everyone, great images once again!. I chose another racecar photo for this week. This is Sam Posey's 1970 Dodge Challenger that Competed in the SCCA's Trans Am class, shot in September at the Lime Rock historic festival. Love the color of this car, which is called sublime.</p><div></div>

Thanks Robert, some excellent points, a lot of which I was thinking as well. The A/F motor issue is probably the biggest

one, no chance of motor failure is a huge plus. My budget is only going to permit me to buy used, and the AF-S prices are

still quite high. My early thought is to maybe go for an excellent version of the pre AF-I rather than a beat up AF-I or AF-S.

I use my monopod whenever I am shooting sports anyway, so that's a non issue. I have shot race cars with my AF-S 80-

200/TC-14E combo with no problem either, so VR is not high on my priority list.

Exactly what I meant Andrew, looking back I could have phrased it so it was easier to understand, sorry about that. Not

going to lose any sleep over the D40X :) although it still works as well as the day I bought it.

Thank you very much for the informative responses so far! I never really thought about the Sigmas. To update my original

post, I should have mentioned that I am definitely looking for a prime lens. I have an 80-200 AF-S that works great with

my TC14E. The new lens would be used to supplement my zoom. Best regards, and thanks again!

I am saving up some cash for a 300 2.8 at the moment, although I would ultimately like to purchase an AF-S version they are still a bit

pricey. I have also been looking around and doing research on the AF-I version, as well as the pre AF-I ED- AF version. I know parts for

the AF-I lenses are virtually extinct, and repairs can be difficult. A thought on the pre AF-I lens is that in theory would they last longer

because they have no internal focus motor?

I know that I would have to use a third party T/C for the motorless version to keep the A/F function. I would love to be able to save some

$, so what is the opinion of you Nikon experts? Should I keep saving for an AF-S, or maybe give an older version a shot and save some

money? I should add that I shoot a lot of sports, and use a monopod so VR Is not too big a deal. I am currently shooting with a D200,

D40X, and a D7100 should be coming for Christmas, yes I am aware that the D40X will not A/F with the old version. That body will be

relegated to an emergency spare. Thank you for any responses, and taking the time to help me out. Happy shooting everyone!

Did you try the "active" VR setting? Along with all the great advice that might help too.

<p>Wishing everyone a great Nikon Wednseday! This is an image that just gets my attention for some reason. Shot back when film was king, hope you like it.</p><div></div>

<p>Happy Nikon Wednesday everybody, more great images today as usual! I was going through some of my older black and white prints when this one jumped out at me. Shot from the Staten Island ferry, i remember the equipment, but have no clue as to exposure info.</p><div></div>

Hmmm, interesting. Have you tried using just the center point and following the wakeboarders when they jump? Kind of

like a vertical panning shot.

Hey Nigel, here is a thought for you. If your VR is on, is it set to the active setting? I use the 70-300 VR often, and In the

lens' manual it mentions if you are shooting from a moving conveyance to set VR to active.

Although my camera(D200) doesn't have an autofocus system as good as yours, I have recently set mine up to use just

the center point for focus. I have been shooting a bunch of soccer, and was having a similar issue as yours when other

players would be near the main player that I wanted in focus. I have also been shooting some auto racing in the past few

weeks. In both situations I have been getting what I think is better results, and more keepers. I use my AF-S 80-200 with

the focus limiter NOT set to full. As far as I know, I believe the limiter is more for focus speed rather than sharper focus,

but someone else could probably explain it better than me.

<p>Finally the championship winning Wayne Taylor Racing #10 Corvette DP car driven by Max Angelelli and Jordan Taylor.</p><div></div>

<p>Second image is the #90 Wayne Taylor Racing Corvette driven by Richard Westbrook and Ricky Taylor leading the Chip Ganassi with Felix Sabates BMW Riley driven by Scott Pruett and Memo Rojas</p><div></div>