peter_schauss1

<p>The 120 size Hewes reels have the spring clip facing the opposite direction from the cheap reels. This seems to make it easier to center the film and make it feed straight. <br>

The old Nikor reels had a spring clip with a spike on it. I find that these are the easiest to load because, once you get the film centered, it automatically feeds straight.</p>

<p>I have several Industar-22's and they all mount on my IIIa and IIIc with no problems. I do have to set the lens to its closest focus point so that the focusing tab doesn't hit the slow speed dial. Once mounted I get the full range of focus with these lenses.</p>

<p>I have had no problems with Tri-X pushed to 1600 with Diafine and which has passed through the carryon bagaage scanners.</p>

<p>I just ran a test with my X-300, taking doubles of everything. On one I stopped the lens down, set the aperture, and held the AE lock button down while I released aperture stopdown lever and the shutter. (This would be equivalent to setting the exposure manually.) On the other, I stopped the lens down, set the aperture to a value which would give me an exposure of 1/125 - 1/250, and released the shutter, letting the camera's aperture priority logic set the actual shutter speed. The latter frames were all significantly underexposed.</p>

<p>I have an old 100mm/f3.5 Auto tele rokkor-QE lens which I use on my X-300. I have used it with the camera in manual metering mode by stopping the lens down to take the reading. Is it possible to use this lens with the camera in aperture priority mode as well?<br>

My method of operation would be:<br>

- Meter by holding down the stop down lever and setting the aperture to a value which gives the desired shutter speed.<br>

- Release the stop down lever and press the shutter button.<br>

Since the camera stops down the lens before it opens the shutter, it seems that this would work if it determines the actual shutter setting at the instance that it stops the lens down. Is my reasoning correct?</p>

<p>I dropped a Nikkormat FTN with a Tamron 28-80/3.8-4.0 zoom lens on a dock. The metal lens hood apparently absorbed most of the shock because the camera and lens still work perfectly. The hood was slightly bent but still usable.</p>

<p>Looking closely at the shutter I saw that there was a 1/4" streak of dried grease on one of the blades. I cleaned off most of it, gently, with naptha on a cotton swab. Now I can let it sit cocked for 10 minutes or more and it sounds like the correct speed. The real test, of course, will come when I run another roll of film through it.<br>

Thanks for all of the suggestions.</p>

<p>The shutter on my Nikkormat FTN seems to work normally when I cock and fire it immediately, but if I leave it cocked, even for a minute or so, it slows down at a rate which almost seems to be in propotion to the length of time it was cocked. The difference in speed is noticable to my ear. Based on the last roll of Tri-X that I ran through this camera it can be off by 2 or 3 stops (i.e. camera set at 1/125 and shutter fires at 1/25 or 1/4).<br>

I am assuming that I need to have this camera serviced which will probably cost more than I paid for it, but I am curious to know if anyone has seen behavior like this before.</p>

<p>Bob Sunley had the solution. Somehow the lens indexing fork had rotated too far and was jammed against the trip lever on the meter coupling. By lifting the lever a bit with a small probe, I was able to free it. <br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>I tried that, but did not see anything obvious.</p>

<p>I tried to mount a Tamron 28-80 with an AI Adaptall-2 adapter on my FT2. (I have done this before on this camera and my Nikkormat FTN so I know that this works.) When I did the "shuffle" to set the maximum aperture, the lens jammed so that it only moves between f22 and f11. Now I cannot remove the lens and adapter.<br>

What did I do wrong and how can I remove the lens?<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>Nikkormat FTN - Nikkor 50mm/f2 - Tmax 100. </p><div></div>

<p>This one is a bit late as I had to wait for the print to dry before I could scan it.</p><div></div>

<p>Check that the rangefinder is properly adjusted. When you focus on a distant object (I use the moon), the lens should show that it is focused at infinity. Check it also at 1 or 2 meters. If you do a search on the web you should be able to find instructions on how to adjust the rangefinder if it is not set right.</p>

<p>Use Diafine. Then the time is not critical.</p>

<p>Nikkormat FT2 - 43-86/f3.5 (AI version) - HP5+</p><div></div>

<p>Mine does the same thing. I bought a capacitor kit Ebay and replaced the capacitor on the bottom but that did not fix the problem. According to the repair manual there are two more capacitors under the top cover. I opted to buy an X-300 at a price only slightly higher than the cost of the capacitor kit. The X-300 is easier to use in manual mode because the LEDs in the viewfinder display both the actual and suggested speeds.</p>

<p>Has anyone tried the Compard R09 from Freestyle? Any idea who makes it?</p>

<p>The stuff I bought from him last winter was definitely Shanghai GP3 identical to the GP3 that I bought directly from Ebay seller cowy07. It also works well in Diafine (exposed at box speed). The only issues I have had with it are excessive curl and poor alignment of the film with the markings on the backing paper.</p>

<p>Do the Russian Nikon-mount cameras like the Kiev 19 have the same flange-to-film distance and Nikon?<br>

I recently won a Kiev 19 on Ebay. After discovering that the Helios 81H lens which came with the camera would not stop down due, apparently to oil on the diaphragm blades, I tried my Nikon pre-AI 50mm/f2 and a Tamron 35-80/f2.8-3.5. They both mount, focus, and stop down as expected except that when focused at a distance object the lens scales show 5 m instead of infinity. I took about 20 pictures at various distances, a good number of them with the lens wide open or nearly so and all were in perfect focus. Has anyone else observed this?<br>

FWIW, the price of the camera was low enough that it would not pay to send it back to the seller.</p>

<p>A dock near my house.</p><div></div>

<p>Why do you want a Yashica B? From a quick google search it appears that the B has the same lens as the A. Most likely you will be able to buy a D or a Yashicamat with a 4 element Yashinon lens for the same price.</p>

<p>Nikkormat + 50mm/f2.0 - Kodak Double-X.</p><div></div>

<p>I did a quick search on Ebay and KEH and I see what you mean about the location of the letteing and the color of the filter ring. It appears that they made an intermediate change, however because mine and a few other non-AI versions that I found have a black filter ring with the lens information inside of the ring. </p>

<p>I have the pre-AI version of this lens which came with my Nikkormat FTn. I like the build quality, size, weight and zoom range of this lens but have found it a bit softer than my 50 mm/f2.0. How much better, optically, was the AI version and how does it compare with a lens like the 35-70/f3.5 AI?</p>