rob_h5

April 26, 2013

This guy made one out of Medium-density fibreboard. Also any adhesive will do for to adhere the reflector material; spray adhesive/non-reflective black shur tape or duct tape/velcro...ect. Tape is probably the best, its quick and clean and also can double as a hinge.

DIY triflector

<a href="

April 26, 2013

The Trilite reflectors are very popular for fashion/portrait. You can make a DIY tri-lite with simple foam core making 2 cuts (not too deep just enough for a fold) with a xacto blade for 3 panels and folds and glueing 3 square (silver/gold) reflector panels from a<a href="http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/colour-details.html#273&filter=tf"> LEE FILTER 273 soft silver reflector sheets/roll.</a>

But if thats too much work...

Calumet still sells the Trilite <a href="http://www.calumetphoto.com/eng/product/lastolite_trilite_reflector_kit_sunfire_silver/bg7200">http://www.calumetphoto.com/eng/product/lastolite_trilite_reflector_kit_sunfire_silver/bg7200</a>

April 25, 2013

but I also used a Canon 5D back when it came out with good results

get good glass

</blockquote>

First welcome back to photography. Second it doesnt really matter much what camera system you choose, any decent camera system will do as long as you use it to help achieve the photography you want. Good lenses help...a lot. I shoot with Canon Full Frame but you can also do a lot with sub-frame. Are you shooting portraits/fashion? Here is some nature shot with Canon 5D and Angenieux zoom.

<a href="/photo/17148873">http://www.photo.net/photo/17148873</a>

April 24, 2013

To be clear (and there are many versions of this Tokina zoom) you want the Canon EF mount Tokina AT-X PRO AF 28-70mm 1:2.6-2.8 Ø 77 JAPAN (Pro I version with screw on hood) this is the exact version that's based on the Angenieux optical formula.

The other Tokina 28-70mm models may or may not have much of the original optical formula (I cant confirm either way) but the original first Tokina version Pro I that I just mentioned does. The above weblinks provide more info and a photo of the original Tokina AT-X zoom. As I own the actual Angenieux zoom, from the photos I have seen from the Tokina AT-X PRO I AF 28-70mm zoom I can confirm the characteristics of the Tokina are the same as the Angenieux (circular bokeh, glow, contrast, sharpness, lens flare, vignette..ect) and is the closest you will ever get to a real Angenieux zoom.

April 24, 2013

but I aim at a full-frame within the next years, so it would be better to buy only full-frame lenses, like the Canon L.

</blockquote>

Both are excellent lens either Canon L lenses or the Tokina AT-X pro series. What I would suggest is try to upgrade to Canon full frame, I shoot with Canon full frame (Canon 5DMKI & II). I have shot with the Canon 60D and it is one of the worst Canon APS-C DSLR cameras that Canon has ever made. Not only does it lack professional features standard on professional DSLR cameras it includes features found only on P&S cameras. :/

I havent shot with the Tokina AT-X 4/12-24mm but would highly recommend the Tokina AT-X 28-70mm. A bit of history for example the Tokina AT-X 28-70mm was actually based on the legendary French Angenieux 28-70mm design. I have shot with both the Angenieux and Canon L zooms and they are both equal in quality. Here is a video of both two lenses tested side by side and you can see both are excellent. Also below is photo of my Angenieux zoom if you are not familiar with the zoom and lens design that Tokina based the Tokina AT-X was on. Although the Angenieux zoom I own is impossible to find the Tokina AT-X 28-70mm is much more readily available in the used market and is much less expensive.

Angenieux vs Tokina AT-X zoom <a href="http://cameragx.com/2010/03/05/about-tokinas-28-70mm-f2-6-2-8-and-its-angenieux-ties/">http://cameragx.com/2010/03/05/about-tokinas-28-70mm-f2-6-2-8-and-its-angenieux-ties/</a> <a href="http://vimeo.com/38152106">http://vimeo.com/38152106</a> <a href="http://www.photozone.de/Reviews/275-tokina-af-28-70mm-f28-at-x-pro-sv-test-report--review">http://www.photozone.de/Reviews/275-tokina-af-28-70mm-f28-at-x-pro-sv-test-report--review</a>

April 20, 2013

I want a good combination of two triggers ( i thought a solution in cheap ttl triggers) Weddings usually call for profesional grade equipment, and cutting corners could show Pocket Wizards all the way.

</blockquote>

Another vote for Pocket Wizards. If you asked me this question years ago, I would have still said Pocket Wizards ... but may have also recommended some cheap Calumet or Ebay triggers if you were on budget and if you never worked with radios. But now Pocket Wizard has that covered too with $99 Pocket Wizard transmitter/receivers that just came out.

$99 Pocket Wizard transceivers <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/925118-REG/pocketwizard_801_129_plus_x_transceiver.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/925118-REG/pocketwizard_801_129_plus_x_transceiver.html</a>

April 20, 2013

The only real reason to try to avoid using multiple brands is that your modifiers aren't universal...

Its fine to mix and match lights, your main concern is colour temperature.

</blockquote>

As I said before, its perfectly fine to mix and match studio lights and/or speedlights/flashguns but use of modifiers is not you main problem this is just one of the problems. Another problem is internal or proprietary radio communications i.e. Elinchrom Skyports...I shoot with the Bowens Explorer 1500 w/s pack and head which uses a "built in" and non-removable Bowens Pulsar receiver and Bowens radio cards (removable radio cards) in the monolights... but that is discussion for a totally different new thread . The main problem is color temp and flash duration, which is why everyone here is recommending the OP use his BEST studio light (Elinchrom) for the Key/fill.

April 18, 2013

After attending a photo workshop I learned that my lights (Alienbees) are really lower end lights and inferior compared other high end brands.

The instructor didn't push anyone to buy the lights he was using.

</blockquote>

Your instructor was right.

Most professional instructors at workshops wont "push" you into buying any specific studio lights. They may recommend you a certain brand BUT thats because they have sponsors and/or they have actually using those (insert brand______) studio lights for decades and really believe in the product for reliability, customer service, performance...ect.

That said, hopefully you have "upgraded" your studio lights by now. Below is a list of studio lights that most professional photographers use. All of these are available for in the studio use or outdoors or both.

is there a big difference in the quality of the light between other more expensive brands and allien bees?

</blockquote>

There is a huge difference! Professional studio lights have consistant color temp, crisper light (fast flash duration) ...ect

I personally settled on Elinchrom both for the quality of their lights, but more so for the range and quality of the modifiers available...

Personally, after a few false starts, I went with Profoto for most of my lighting gear with some Hensel for battery operated work.

</blockquote>

I agree, I have shot with Profoto and Hensel both are amazing studio lights. Elinchrom is one of the best.

Professional pack and head both studio and portable battery studio light generator systems Profoto Hensel Speedotron Broncolor Dynalite (has a new battery inverter that just came out) Bowens/Calumet Elinchrom More info comparing different portable pack and head sytems <a href="http://www.timothyarmes.com/blog/2009/05/choosing-a-battery-pack-flash-system/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.timothyarmes.com/blog/2009/05/choosing-a-battery-pack-flash-system/</a>

April 17, 2013

It's possible that as you dial down the power on the ABs, you'll see some minor drift in color temps. So do some testing, the better to know if you should use them for rim/hair lighting, etc.

</blockquote>

I agree with Matt. Use your Elinchroms for the Key / fill light and the Alienbees for backlights. Its fine to mix and match lights, your main concern is colour temperature. Out of the two studio lights your Elinchrom BX500Ri are far superior studio lights to the Alienbees in terms of color temp consistency and fast flash duration. With your Elinchrom lights its only about +/- 200K colour temp variance from max to min which is very very good. Keep in mind the "average color shift" for studio lights from max to min is about 200-300K. There are few studio lights that are exceptional like Profoto which is about +/- 150K.

April 15, 2013

I'm talking about weddings and lighting that my assistant would direct...

</blockquote>

In your case I would rent a speedlight and keep the Bowens kit. I dont know if you read my previous post but professional photographers rent quite a bit. If you are in the UK there are Calumet stores / rental all over the UK that rents really hard to find Bowens gear (Bowens fresnel for example) which is not even available in the USA among other items including the Bowens Travelpak Battery.

April 15, 2013

I do not feel like I need to cover every focal length. Instead, I prefer a lens which is right for the job and has plenty of character.

These primes; the 20mm/2.8, 50mm/1.4 and the 100mm/2.0 make a great kit for the things you want to do. I vote positive on the three you picked.

</blockquote>

Daniel, I agree with you about prime lenses...the caveat here was that the OP only wants ONE prime lens, which to use for everything he wanted would have been difficult although not totally impossible. This is why I highly recommended the flexibility of Canon L zooms such as the Canon L 24-105mm f4 or Canon 24-70mm L MKII f2.8 lenses.

April 14, 2013

The 24-105 L is not a great lens and there have been discussions on photo.net of buying it anyway as a combo and then making a couple of hundred dollars by selling it I'd be more inclined to look for a used 24-70/2.8 L...

</blockquote>

I disagree. I have shot many times with the Canon 24-105L f4 zoom lens on the Canon 5DMKII and I have found it to be an excellent lens very sharp, superb color and contrast and last but certainly not least a very useful focal range. The only drawback is as I often mention is its speed, f4 is not fast to say the least but this is what happens when you have this focal length range. As far as the combo thing, that happens in all camera-kit packages where the lens included is either not very good or not needed because the photographer already has one similar. The Canon 24-105L f4 zoom lens is an exception...one of the very very few Canon "kit lenses" I recommend.

But I do agree that the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L II USM Lens is the best in the Canon "mini zoom" under 100mm range, it is more expensive but if you can swing it got for it! Either zoom lens though is fine.

Canon 24-105L f4 review <a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-24-105mm-f-4-L-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx">http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-24-105mm-f-4-L-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx</a> .

April 14, 2013

If you can get the Canon 90mm tilt-shift that would also be great for commercial food/product photography, it also is available to rent.

</blockquote>

Every major photography rental store has this lens for rent. And if there isnt one locally they can always ship it to you. :)

April 14, 2013

I have a shoot that needs to be shot on my hassy and needs to be fisheye, but I obviously don't want to buy the 30mm and locally there is no where to rent it / renting isn't going to be an option.

</blockquote>

I know you mentioned there is no place locally for you to rent the Hassy 30mm fisheye but Adorama in NYC has it for rent and will ship it out to you. :) HASSELBLAD 30MM CF FISHEYE LENS rental <a href="http://www.adoramarentals.com/Prod/HS3035CFI.html">http://www.adoramarentals.com/Prod/HS3035CFI.html</a>

April 14, 2013

Since the 24-105 f/4 is only an extra $575 (vs. $1150 alone) if I purchase it with the camera, I'm thinking that one is definitely a no-brainer. From what I've read on other posts, it sounds like a good lens.

</blockquote>

Ditto on the Canon 24-105mm L f4 lens that is a GREAT zoom! Its very very sharp and has very useful focal lengths , I think you will find it perfect for food photography. If you can get the Canon 90mm tilt-shift that would also be great for commercial food/product photography, it also is available to rent. And another lens is the Canon 100mm L f2.8 Macro a very popular lens for food/product photography.

Here is a great example from a food photographer using the Canon 5D Mark III and Canon 100mm f.2.8L Macro lens <a href="http://nicolesyblog.com/2013/03/07/beautiful-food-in-the-barossa-valley/">http://nicolesyblog.com/2013/03/07/beautiful-food-in-the-barossa-valley/</a>

April 14, 2013

That's the whole point why I went full frame and primes! F4 vs F1.4-2.0 are worlds apart.

</blockquote>

True but with landscape you want a deep DOF. Look at Dan's photo as an example.

April 14, 2013

I think I have come to a decision that I will keep the Bowen's kit Only reason for this is on moving about in peoples homes it's easier to sacrifice 100w and have lighter kit to work with. Do people think this is a good idea or not?

</blockquote>

Like I said before you are fine with the studio lights you have, you have 2 Bowens 500ws studio lights so already you have 1000ws combined of power. Weight wise the difference between the Bowens 500 and 400 is only 1.7 lbs. Also the Bowens 500 Pro monolight has triple the flash duration @ t=0.5 1/2900 Sec.

And Marc makes great points, you want only studio strobe lights if you plan on shooting in the studio AND in full sun outdoors. And a 1000ws is what you have right now so thats a good start. The only issue really here is transport. Are you using the dolly and cases that came with the Bowens kit?

Bowens trolly <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/615777-REG/Bowens_BW_1068_B_Large_Trolley_Case.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/615777-REG/Bowens_BW_1068_B_Large_Trolley_Case.html</a>

April 13, 2013

A single 24-105mm f/4 L IS zoom covers that full range. Why primes? (I shoot primes quite a bit, but I also shoot zooms, and I find that the zooms get more use.)

...who actually do prefer wide angle lenses for landscape

</blockquote>

Dan I agree with you that the OP should give Canon L zooms a chance, I have also found that they get more use. And I also agree with you about telephotos lenses used for landscape. I will admit my speciality is NOT landscapes, its portraits, people, but when I shoot landscapes .... I happen to prefer UWA lens. I have shot amazing landscapes with the Canon 17-40mm L f4 zoom lens...but that lens is certainly not my first choice for portraits.I meant to say wide angle lenses tend to be the most popular lenses but definitely not the only lenses used for landscape photography.

Telephotos lenses are used a lot for landscapes and your photo is a great example of landscape photography from a telephoto lens. What lens was that BTW?

April 13, 2013

It's not. Ever heard of landscape compression and environmental portraits?

Sure there are exceptions.

</blockquote>

We all have, I have shot a few of these myself. That said the lenses that I have a mentioned are generally used for a specific purpose. You can even shoot portraits with fisheyes if you want ... but there are lenses that are generally used for specific purposes.

There are many other Canon L zooms too if Canon 24-70mm f2.8 MKII L zoom lens is not for you, I just think the zoom route might be better for you than carrying a bunch of primes.

April 13, 2013

Thinking landscape = wide and portrait = tele is very ... restrictive,

</blockquote>

Well this is the norm. There is a reason most landscape photographers shoot with UWA (ultra wide angle) and portrait photographers like myself shoot with portrait lenses which is normally the medium-tele range of 85-135mm focal length lenses or could even be anyhere from 50-180mm for portrait. You could even go with a super tele 300mm with portrait. Sure there are exceptions.

The point is a zoom like the Canon 24-70mm f2.8 MKII L zoom lens would cover everything you want to shoot.

April 13, 2013

•20mm 2.8 vs 24mm 1.4 •50mm 1.4 vs 50mm 1.2 •100mm 2.0 vs 135mm 2.0 What I do shoot: •Landscapes (must be lightweight), •Events (must be bright lenses), •Still life (must have decent close focusing, though not necessarily 1/1 macro). PS: this is the least important criterium of the three

</blockquote>

You may not like this answer but IMO NONE OF THE ABOVE. Each of the lenses you mentioned (except the Canon 50/1.4 an excellent "normal" lens) are kind of specialist lenses and wont do for ALL the subjects you mentioned. If you were only shooting landscapes then 20mm 2.8 or 24mm 1.4 , if only event group shots then a 50mm 1.4 , 50mm 1.2, or for portraits the 100mm 2.0 or 135mm 2.0. Having shot with most these lenses the 135/2 L being the best portrait lens in your list. Still life could be 50mm and up...( 20mm may cause too much distortion). Unless you want to purchase three primes consider a zoom lens.

What you need is a Canon L zoom, a professional good, fast, bright, light, travel/walk around zoom lens...start with a Canon 24-70mm f2.8 MKII L zoom lens. <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/843008-USA/Canon_5175B002_EF_24_70mm_f_2_8L_II.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/843008-USA/Canon_5175B002_EF_24_70mm_f_2_8L_II.html</a> Just my opinion. :)

April 12, 2013

I was reading a number of reviews on the low budget version of the Fotodiox Nikon-Canon EOS adapter, apparently not everyone is happy with it. One review on this adapter:

I put this adaptor on my Nikon 50mm f 1.8 lens. It went on very smoothly and I can use it with no problems. BUT the adaptor won't come off! The release spring doesn't appear to work. The only way I can get it off the lens now is to break it (and possibly my lens in the process).

This was a common complaint from a number of reviews. Keep in mind this is the low-budget Fotodiox adapter not the pro version which had better reviews. Still though it looks like the common problem is this adapter goes on the Nikon lens easily enough... the problem is the adapter doesnt come off! Thats one way to convert your Nikon lens to Canon EF mount permanently! Just something to keep in mind if you want to get a new adapter to use Nikon lenses on Canon DSLR. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Mount-Adapter-Nikon-Camera/dp/B001G4QXLE/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top">http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Mount-Adapter-Nikon-Camera/dp/B001G4QXLE/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top</a>

April 12, 2013

Yeah, glue.... SOLID! :-)

</blockquote>

Ha ha ! LOL :D

I had a good chuckle too when I saw those "instructions" on that website. I dont know Andrew, I agree with Sarah on this one ...if you have to break out the Crazy Glue just to use a Nikon lens on a Canon DSLR that is just asking for a big MESS. I did not know before that a Nikon-EOS adapter from Fotodiox existed until Wouter mentioned it. A Nikon-EOS adapter is the way to go if you really must use Nikon lenses on Canon Digital. I use Fotodiox adapters all the time but I mainly shoot with Canon EOS adapting other lenses...I just dont use any Nikon lenses.

High quality adapters <a href="http://fotodioxpro.com/">http://fotodioxpro.com/</a>

April 12, 2013

Not to start a Nikon vs Canon war but the OP should seriously decide which lenses he wants to use first (Canon or Nikon or whatever) then get the DSLR body accordingly. If he already has an arsenal of Nikon lenses... great! But he is in the wrong forum and should go to the Nikon forum and ask the Nikon guys there for advice on a suitable Nikon DSLR camera. Just my opinion.

Huh? Fitting an adapter. Done.

</blockquote>

Eh, according to this <a href="http://www.leitax.com/Nikon-lens-for-Canon-cameras.html">website</a> ...Not Done. At least not done without disassembly and reassembly of the Nikon lens. OTH I am a Canon shooter and I have never shot with Nikon lenses or Nikon cameras so adapting Nikon lenses is not something I ever had to worry about. And until you showed me that Nikon-EOS adapter....I did not even know that a Fotodiox Nikon-EOS adapter existed! And Fotodiox adapters are all I use so it must be well made.

Nikon-EOS adapter major surgery instructions step by step: <a href="http://www.leitax.com/conversion/Nikon-Canon/index.html">http://www.leitax.com/conversion/Nikon-Canon/index.html</a>

April 12, 2013

...how about some old Leica R lenses?

</blockquote>

Exactly! Steve has it right. If the OP has to to go with manual lenses for the Canon 5D MKII , at least go with Leica, Zeiss ZE or Olympus OM Zuiko (or 3rd party lenses with OM mount). Nikon lenses and Canon EOS cameras were never meant to be, adapting Nikon lenses on Canon EOS cameras is somewhat major surgery, its not just a simlple adapter and your done, the (Nikon) lenses need to be disassembled and reassembled ... in other words ... a big headache.

What the OP needs to do is tell us exactly what he plans to shoot... OK "nature" .... but what exactly? Birds, mammals, buffalo, underwater fish, landscape....ect. Until then there not much more we can do to help the OP in this thread. :/

Sign In

Profiles

Forums

Blogs

Events

Downloads

Gallery

Store

Posts posted by rob_h5