svenja_mathews

<p>You may want to check the results posted by http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/eng/DxOMark-Sensor:<br>

D3x = 13.7, 5DII = 11.9, D300 = 12, and the 2-year-old Fuji S5pro = 13.5 stops.<br>

Personally I am not the lucky owner of a D300, but I think many people here would subscribe that the D300 is still state of the art.</p>

<p>The weather is good, and living is easy. Tourists enjoy the the first warm sunrays, giving a nice contrast to the otherwise hectic daily routine. But beware - always keep one hand at your hand bag, cellphone and wallet. </p><div></div>

People say that D90 cannot meter with Ai/AiS lenses...but I do not having one to check.

Dear Toshiya,

 

If bursting rate is not an issue for you, then the S5 pro will be a very nice camera for you which meters with

the Zeiss. You only have to provide lens parameters. With D200 you can take more consecutive frames, the S5

needs more time to write the data to memory, and also the use of the high dynamic range setting decreases

bursting rate. Dynamic range of S5 is superior to D200. S5 delivers great JPEGs, for processing the RAFs you

need Fuji's Hyper Utility, at least 1 GB of RAM, and very fast hardware (otherwise you wait for ages until you

see changes applied to the image). A workaround for not using the HyperUtility Software is to use the Finepix

Studio supplied with the camera. It delivers results on par with the HyperUtility if you subsequently downsample

your 12MP images to 6MP. And here is another point: the S5 delivers per-pixel-resolution at 6MP which would be

expected from a 7-8MP sensor, but you do actually not see more detail at 12MP (take the S5 as a very good 6MP

camera - the

12MP files will only fill up your harddrive while not giving extra resolution). After all, I like the S5 very

much, and would get it again - even today. It is not soft (increase sharpness setting to hard and with a good

lens - the

Zeiss - you'll see razor-sharp images), and its menu structure is is not counter-intuitive to me, as many have

argued. It is only different to Nikon's, but not worse.

 

Regards - S.

Hi HCLIM,

 

With film, it is easy. With HDR, you can merge manually the layers with different exposure. By now, the only way to get the job done. Automatic mergers usually produce ghosts. But perhaps at some time in the future this issue becomes resolved.

 

Lens flare? Maybe this is no issue with the kit lenses? I'm not sure, though...

 

Regards - S.

@HC Lim

 

You already said it in your answer. Given you have a stellar optics, shooting into the sun is perhaps easier with film...unless you do HDR (but hey, carrying around this tripod all the time).

 

S.

Sorry, my browser went nuts...here the picture.<div></div>

Arrived somewhat late here...a lot of points were already made...so let a picture speak.

 

The attached pic has been taken by some Fuji device...but do you think it was slide, negative or digital?

(The only processing that I applied to the photo was some de-saturation of the right side). No HDR stuff.

Framing, taking one shot, and period.

 

Notice the reflection of the sun at the right - while taking the photo it appeared as being blown out to my eyes.

Shooting cond's: sun in the back, no clouds. Nothing more, just guess. In the end everything boils down to

delivering pleasing pictures.

 

Finally, www.dxomark.com says that your Canon 40D has 11.3 stops of DR, www.diwa-labs.com says it has 10.22 -

10.90 (RGBY),

and dpreview rates it as having 11 stops, "although with no guarantee of color accuracy".

 

Cheers,

S.