derek_kennedy

<p>Wow - thats incredible!</p>

<p>Yeah I think you did in fact find the holy grail alright. If I had access to Tmax developer - I think I would definitely try this. So far Ive only used HC-110 and Rodinal for stand development.</p>

<p>you can get the film at the filmphotographyproject - i got some for 4x5 but havent tried shooting any as of yet as Im getting confusing posts about developers and times.</p>

<p>I only have access to HC-110 and Rodinal. But seeing different times and same dilutions. I will probably try it this spring though. Too cold out there this winter.</p>

<p>Epson V700 comes with film holder for 35mm, 35mm slides, 120, and a holder to hold 2 4x5 sheets. love it.</p>

<p>Phil:<br>

<br />I actually started to peruse the lenses over at a well known New York business to check out what was available. I do happen to have a Canon 50mm 1.8 (II) that I purchased specifically for a Canon 10D what I recently had converted to IR - i totally forgot I even had that lens lol. Then lens stays on the 10D, so yeah i forgot I had it until today at work I was thinking about lenses.<br>

<br />Not so sure about its sharpness of that Canon 50mm 1.8 II when compared to other offerings such as the Sigma 50mm 1.4 you mentioned. I did have one Sigma 50mm in the past that had a different mount and from what I recall I was pretty happy with it except for in darker situations it really wasnt able to focus very well. It was an older lens tho.<br>

<br />Im thinking this spring I want to do two things as far as photography is concerned: get out more and shoot more with film, and shoot more with a fix focal length lens, such as a 50mm.<br>

<br />I will give serious consideration in purchasing a new 50mm lens this spring. As much as I would like to stick with Canon, if I can get a comparable lens cheaper - why not.<br>

<br />I *really* need to force myself out the door with a camera more this year. Last year I was unable to shoot much at all. my trigger finger is getting itchy.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Phil: i have two lenses for my 5dmkiii but both zooms. If i could afford it i would go with a 50mm just to 'limit' myself, or force myself as i know just taping the lens so i cant zoom wont work lol. i rely on zooms far too much.</p>

<p>John: her photos are the nicest photos ive seen in a long time and i find myself going back over and over to look at them. i can only dream of becoming half as talented as she is.</p>

<p>I sent her an email asking about the images. Im not holding my breath about learning anything but worth the shot (sorry).</p>

<p>you guys make good points about the lights and in camera settings - I assumed most of the look achieved had been done with processing.<br>

<br />Seeing her photos makes me realize I suck even more than I originally thought lol.<br>

<br />As far as photoshop is concerned, I dont use it any where near its full potential but making the usual adjustments so I have a lot to learn where editing is concerned tbh.</p>

<p>under exposing - good point there, i considered that but want sure. Id hoped there would be a ps action i could check out that would get me close. will continue to look around.<br>

<br />I agree though, she is <em>very</em> good.</p>

<p>Although I have been using photoshop for several years, im by NO means a ps guru. So bear with me.<br>

There was some images posted on the net of a Russian woman who would photograph her children and their pets. There were some photos of a small child and what I believe was a St Bernard. The look of these particular photos to me were just simply amazing.<br>

Sure there was the use of limited dof and such, and even lighting - but the <em>look</em> of the resulting images with what i assume came from photoshop or lightroom processing </p>

<p>I hope the link works but just in case, im referring to photo 2/23:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.boredpanda.com/animal-children-photography-elena-shumilova/?image_id=animal-children-photography-elena-shumilova-1.jpg">Link</a><br>

<br />Anyone here know how i can achieve this look? Simple jaw dropping for me personally. Possibly a purchased plugin or action was used?<br>

<br /><em>Any</em> help would be <em>greatly</em> appreciated.</p>

<p>Derek</p>

<p>sheesh, thanks for this info. I have a V700 and am having the same problem with scanning 127 film. I tried some glass to hold down the film flat, but then i get double image. laying it flat without the glass - well, it doesnt lay flat. thought maybe tape the edges, but no, then id have tape on my negs.</p>

<p>double post, sorry</p>

<p>hmm, didnt notice that in the manual - course it didnt come with one but did find one online.</p>

<p>Tried that Rick - same thing. Level wont go past the click-stop position.</p>

<p>Jeff: It does the same thing with or with out a lens attached so yeah maybe it will need to go in for servicing. If so, it will have to wait until next year as I dont have any cash for repairs right now. No bonus from work this year, and we are about to go on a family trip so no cash.</p>

<p>But I also tried all the lenses it came with (3) - same thing. It did seem to have sat for quite a while as the camera was quite dusty.</p>

<p>Thanks for the help guys.</p>

<p>I was just handed a Mamiya NC1000 with a couple lenses today and would love to get out there with it and get some photos with it but it seems I cant.</p>

<p>I cant find anything in the manual about this issue: but i was able to advance the film advance lever and set off the shutter - once (with no film in camera). Now I cant advance the leaver past about 15 degrees. The little meter lock button pops up but I cant move it past about 15 degrees or what ever it is - have you ever had this issue and what did you do to fix it?</p>

<p>Fresh batteries in the camera. I even tried loading it with film but cant do that due to the above problem. Tried pressing the rewind button (also allows you to do multiple exposures), the shutter trip button works properly (goes down when you press it ).</p>

<p>I even tried opening up the back to manually turn the sprocket thinking the camera needs to feel tension to advance...no help.</p>

<p>Ran out of ideas. </p>

<p>Derek</p>

<p>Larry:<br>

<br />Yeah I like how the UN54 is working out. Been fun trying different developers and times But my last roll so far is my fav. I havent been out much so far this spring/summer but should get shooting soon and when I do I will be shooting lots of UN54. <br>

<br />I need to get off my kiester and order some more though but cash is short these days</p>

<p>Killed November last year I believe. I bought up as much as I could afford while it was still available.</p>

<p>I've been using UN 54 as well. Love it.</p>

<p>Loved the app for my ipod called mixical but I cant seem to find it for the android market. Sounds like its not available for the android which is too bad.</p>

<p>Does anyone else use an app such as mixical for the android os? if so, what do you use?</p>

<p>Got a new phone and am in the process of transferring info/apps to it so now I wont have to use a phone and the ipod.</p>

<p>THanks Erik for that info and link..</p>

<p>I do have FB (spend entirely too much time on it i might add) and will check that link out too. I have tried my hand so far once in developing in Coffenol and was quite amazed at how well it turned out and plan on using it some more now that winter is finally leaving (as now I will be shootin *much* more film).</p>

<p>Dont know if they have any left but film plus in Toronto did get some in - I was able to order a couple boxes.</p>

<p>Mixing my own sounds like fun - but in my smallish 'city' its hard to get anything. took me months to find washing soda for coffenal lol!</p>

<p>Thanks for that link Erik, I will check it out</p>

<p>Yes, I would just lay the sheet film on the glass.</p>

<p>If you open up the lid you can see where the glass strip is, so I would line up the sheet on the bottom glass as centered as I could, do a preview until I was happy that I have the negative positioned good, do any adjustments to the negative if it wasnt in a good position then do a scan - then slide the sheet over and do another preview to check on the new position. If it looks good - scan the neg.</p>

<p>So, position negative to scan about half of the sheet making sure I have the one edge (left edge?) in the scan, scan it - move it over a bit so I can scan the sheet again making sure I had the right edge in the preview - scan: import both into the editing program, stitch.</p>

<p>I never had an issue with newton rings placing the sheet right on the glass but it would make sense to make a holder in order to get the sheet the proper height off the glass (for proper focus). </p>

<p>I had a V500 and when I had to scan 4x5 sheet film I would scan one half, then move the negative over and scan the other half. In a photo editing program I would then stitch the two scans together.</p>

<p>I did however manage to get tired of doing this and ended up getting the V700 and am much happier but scanning sheet negatives as i outlined above is how I did it before the V700.</p>

<p>It works, it just takes some time.</p>

<p>Lex - I've recently started to hang my negs at a diagonal just for the reason you indicated.</p>

<p>The reasoning Ive read was that if you hang it traight, the water has to travel the entire(?) neg before drying but if you hang it at an angle, it has a shorter distance to travel, dripping to the edge and off the negatives faster. In theory - cleaner negatives.</p>

<p>Ive only done it twice so far but so far - zero problems with drying marks. I also use distilled water with photo flo during the final rinse.</p>

<p>Efke does in deed get soft during processing and you should use a fixer with a hardener. I cant recall for sure but I think Efke indicates a hardener is recommended? Ive read it somewhere anyway.</p>

<p>But, I also have read about problems with the emulsion coming off when people try to wipe the water off at the end using a squeegee or fingers so I for one never ever try this as I dont want to scratch the film or remove the emulsion all together.</p>

<p>You can process C-41 films in b&w chemicals, ive seen others have done it. One guy does it a lot using coffenal recipes with decent results. I havent tried it myself (developing c-41 films) with good results using traditional b&w chemicals so only tried developing a couple rolls and gave up.</p>

<p>There is a member here, David Odess that is a Hasseblad tech. He can sell you a light seal kit for your back. Ive purchased a couple of them for my two film backs and couldnt be happier.</p>

<p>Now, thats assuming of course this is the problem but thats what it appears to be to me.</p>

<p>I dont necessarily mind no new films considering their situation: I just hope the keep what the have especially Tri-X.</p>

<p>I altho i DO hope that someday the bring out new stuff, esp b&w.</p>

<p>Well, apparently their film sales were up 20% last year, and apparently film was the only division actually making them money, so it makes sense to keep those divisions running and concentrating on those two items.</p>

<p>Dont know about others, but Ive purchased more film in the past year, than all other years combined.</p>